Costa Blanca X-tra Version 2.0 - February 2013
r e t s i a l G k r a M : o t o h P . o y a c i P l E t a g a r c e h t f o c i s s a l c e h t , ) + c 6 ( e h c l i v s e r o m u T n o s e m a J n a
Magdelena Ibi Sector Cumbre (Sax) Foradà - Extra Sectors Alcoi Morro Falqui El Picayo Baranc de l'Avern
Costa Blanca X-tra Mini GUIDE by Chris Craggs and Alan James Version 2.0 - February 2013 Published by Rockfax © Rockfax 2008, 2013 Thanks to all the climbers who have spent time and eort equipping routes on the crags covered in this MiniGuide. In particular Hagen Goetzke who developed much o Mollo Falqui.
COPYRIGHT NOTICE All rights reserved. No part o this le may be duplicated in any orm, or by any electronic, mechanical or other means, without the prior permission rom the publisher.
FOOTNOTE The inclusion o a climbing area in this MiniGuide does not mean that you have a right o access or the r ight to climb upon it. The descriptions o routes and grades within this MiniGuide are recorded or historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on the accuracy o the description. Climbers who attempt a climb o a par ticular standard should use their own judgment as to whether they are procient enough to tackle that climb. This book is not a substitute or experience and proper judgment. The authors and publisher o this MiniGuide do not recognise any liability or injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or propert y arising rom such persons seeking reliance on this guidebook as an assurance or their own saety.
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Costa Blanca X-tra This MiniGuide covers eight dierent locations across the Costa Blanca area o Spain. It is a supplement to the Rockax guidebook Spain : Costa Blanca which was published in February 2013. The climbing across this area is superb and the main book covers over 3000 routes across the grades and styles on 45 separate crags.
Some o the crags covered in this MiniGuide were previously included in the 2005 Rockax guidebook to the Costa Blanca. These are Sierra de Magdelena, Ibi, Alcoi and Baranc de l'Avern. There are also some extra buttresses rom the crags Sax and Foradà that were dropped rom the new book. These are all good crags but they have proved to be signicantly less popular than some o the other locations. It should also be noted that we took the decision to drop these crags rom the print guide early in the guidewriting process and we haven't been back to all o the crags to properly check the inormation since hence there could be new routes and developments. All the approaches are accurate though to the best o our knowledge. Also in this MiniGuide is Morro Falqui which is the headland between Moraira and Javea with the Cumbres del Sol (Summits o the Sun) Urbanisation on its crest. This has a number o interesting routes plus some long ully-bolted climbs. The nal crag is El Picayo in the ar north west which is in a beautiul location and has a small set o routes. Xàtiva El Picayo A-31
Gandía
A-35
E-15
A-7 CV-40
p.18
Gandía
AP-7
Baranc de l'Avern
Ontinyent
p.20
Xalo Valley
Alcoi p.11
Calp
Ibi Magdelena p.2
p.5
A-31
Yecla
Xalo
Alcoi
Ibi
Morro Falqui
Puig Campana
p.14
Altea Sella
Sax - Cumbre p.8
Peñón de Iach
Benidorm E-15
Elda
AP-7
Foradà - Extra p.10
Sierra de Toix
Grey crags are a few of the main crags covered in the book Spain : Costa Blanca
Alicante Elche About 10km
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Magdelena
This is not a major venue, and a bit 'in the middle o nowhere', hence it doesn’t see much in the way o visitors. It has a varied selection o sixty or so routes, all in a rather scruy and very arid setting. It is not worth a visit rom aar, but, i you are in the area, it is worth considering or a couple o hour’s sport. The Pared Negra is the best bit o rock here and the only one we describe. It has a pleasant collection o well-bolted low-grade slab climbs in a sunny setting, worth a day i you climb at 5/5+ and want to tick plenty o routes without too much eort. Generally speaking, the grades here are all rather tough. The xed gear is excellent on all the decent routes.
Magdelena
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Pared Negra
ES 10 min
20m
Approach Yecla is about 60km north west o Alicante, and is usually approached rom Villena on the A31 Madrid road. Just beore Yecla, bear let onto the ring road (N334) and ollow this or 8km until the road rom the centre o town comes in rom the r ight. Just under 1km rom here, and just past a wired enclosure on the let, are two nondescript dirt tracks branching o to the right. Follow the let-hand branch to a right ork by a sunken water tank. Continue along this, bearing let at a ruined house, then right at a T-junction just beyond a new house. Continue along the road through a low point in the ridge as it swings up and right to an open parking area - the last section is steep and rough. This is 4km rom the road. From the parking head up the open gully passing to the let o the steep Pared Roja. The crag is on the let, just over the col - less than ten minutes rom the car.
1
2
3
Conditions The cli described here aces south. It dries rapidly ater rain, and the whole valley is well sheltered rom the wind.
1 A pa n y ag ua
1Ω 5+
Climb through the overhangs to a finish up a rugged rib.
2 Ulimatun
1pΩ 6a
3 Primera
2tΩ 6a
Direct via the big hole in the cave roof.
Take the technical slab on the right, then the upper face direct using some rather abrasive holds.
Yecla GPS 38.6066 -1.1931
The area of rock to the right has been developed and has (at least) four easier offerings. They look short but pleasant enough. The main section is just to the right.
4 Calienta motores
N-334a
1Ω 5
Climb out of an orange niche and up the slab past a flake.
5 Al loro con el cazarlo Ω 5+
Pared Negra
Barely independent at the start and not at all above!
6 Treinta cinco
1Ω 5+
Up the centre of the slab (red bolts) then trend right.
N-334
Villena
7 Square Root of 36 Ω 5+ The right-hand line on the slab past silvery bolts.
8 Ciento veinte dos
1Ω 4+
Start up a pocketed crack on the next slab and trend left.
N-334
About 1km
Chris Craggs on Caperutica roja (5) on the Pared Negra, Magdelena. A typical slabby offering and one of the best here. Photo: Sherri Davy
4
5
6 7
8
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Magdelena
Pared Negra
YS 8 min
20m
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Ibi
A closely-packed set o routes running steeply up the side o a rocky ravine. The ravine is called the Barranco de los Molinos. The routes are well protected and tend to be steep, strenuous and ngery. As is so oten the case with out-o-the-way locations, the grades here can seem on the harsh side. The angle o the rock and sharpness o the holds don't help; be prepared to drop your sights a little or get beaten up. Climbers who operate in the 6s and low 7s and who enjoy technical aces should nd enough climbing or a good day’s sport here. Many o the climbs have their names painted on the rock or stamped on the rst bolt bracket.
Approach
9
0
er q w
tyu i
9 J uv it o po co
2Ω 5
0 Ethiopyan boys
1Ω 5
q Papa mateo
1Ω 5+
Start up the pocketed crack (or to the right) to a curving ledge, then up and left via the left side of the fine tower. Good!
Climb just left of the black streak past a large flake.
Just right of the black streak, climb the blunt rib via a broken flake to a ledge (crux) then the easier face above.
w Caperutica roja
2Ω 5
Approach the flake-crack from the right then climb it, and the rib, up and right by pleasant moves.
e Rambla matxaka 8b
1Ω 5
The narrow face is climbed past a chevron-shaped niche, then the right side of the rib above.
r Farlopa pa la Tropa Ω 5 A scruffy slab leads to better climbing up the rib above.
o p
a
s
To the right is a huge fallen flake on the ground, the next routes start above this. There are four small offerings here, all sharing a lower-off.
t La Guia puta esta Ω 5
The left-hand line to a lower-off in a large white scar. We don't take the name personally!
y Nos Vamos Ω 5
Ibi is best approached rom the A-7 motorway which runs rom Alicante towards Alcoi. From the south, leave at junction 34 and drive into the town. Turn right at the rst traic lights onto the main street and ollow this past a roundabout and some traic lights to another set o traic lights by a petrol station. There is no let turn here but overshoot the junction then do a U-turn to get onto the correct road. Drive down here until a right turn signed 'Banyeres de Moriola'. About 1km ater leaving the town there is a r ight turn, just beore the second bridge, and just beyond a ‘no overtaking’ sign. Drive down the track past a red ‘probihut er oc’ sign and park on the right ater 100m. Leave nothing in the car. Walk to the mill and climb steps just in ront o it to reach the base o the crag. Scramble up the slope to nd the object o your desire - and some fat ground! From the north, leave the A-7 at junction 40 and head straight into the town. This takes you to the junction above by the petrol station.
Conditions The cli aces north west and thus only gets the sun quite late on in the day, because o this it can be a rather cool venue in the winter. Early in the day it provides a shady retreat in hotter weather. There is oten a breeze blowing down the Barranco which helps keep things cool when the heat is on and makes conditions bitter when the weather is cold! About 1km
Ibi
A similar line - aren't they all?
u Ve o La V ir gi n Ω 5+
GPS 38.63420 -0.57578
i Guillermo el Traversio Ω 5+ o Casiopea
ES Ω 5+
p Ramblizo
Ω 5+
CV-801 40
Signed 'Banyeres de Moriola'
1 min
CV-806
Petrol station
Something a bit more substantial up the next taller slab.
39
Pull onto the blocky rib and follow it throughout.
a Messalina
fΩ 5
The white wall on the far right.
s Caligula
Ibi CV-806
fΩ 6b
The end of all things - a toughie to finish with.
CV-805
34
35
A-7
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Ibi
Peña Almarra
Ibi
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Peña Almarra
TS*!
TS*!
5 min
5 min
1 y
2
34 5
6
78
as d f g hj k
u i op
y La cagaste Burt Lancaster tΩ 8a 9 0
q w ert
u B on pro fi t
1tΩ 7b
The steep wall right of a dead tree to a ledge. Finish direct.
i Intron ‘A’
l; z
xc
vb
n
1Ω 7a
Through the overhangs, up a short wall then the arete.
1 Woloan
nΩ 7a
The tufa on the far left currently needs runners - odd.
2 Búho
1ksΩ 5+
The steep crack of impending doom.
3 Chintafono
1spΩ 6a+
The leaning wall is well supplied with jugs.
4 C arl o y Brun a
tΩ 7b
The tough pillar to the left of the crack systems.
5 Stalak
nΩ 5
The steep crack leads to ledges and onward. Gear needed.
6 Rompededos
ftΩ 7b
The leaning wall leads to ledges and an easier finish.
7 Mediterráneo Free
1fΩ 7a
The pocketed grey rib on good-but-spaced holds.
8 Bacalao de Bilbao
1pΩ 7a+
Climb the steep wall to a good flake and a leaning finish.
9 Elvira
1tΩ 7b
o Paranoia
Ω 6c
A shorter pitch through the widest part of the overhang.
m, ./ ! @£
x Show de yemas
2Ω 6b+
c Chorizo ballarin
2Ω 6a+
v Capullos en flor
fΩ 6a
Start up a wide awkward crack but leap left into a thinner crack. Up this to the bulges (6c to here) and the crux.
p Viril os
0 Route 10 Ω 7a
a P ic on et a
q Traversia de les figúrese nΩ 6a+
s Qué potito
Ω 6c+
d Figureta
Ω 6a
b HMT
ftΩ 6b
sΩ 6c
The short steep wall right of the crack.
The pocketed wall to a vague diagonal line and steep final crack.
w L a c hi ca yey é
1Ω 7b+
Start as for La traverse.. but climb the wall to the bulges (7a+ to here). Finish with great difficulty.
e Variente Pontect
1Ω 4
The slanting groove has now been bolted. An extension is 6b.
r Unnamed
1Ω 5+
The rib right of steep juggy diagonal (a trad route).
t Pontect
1sΩ 6c
The leaning crack to a juggy hole, then more of the same.
1Ω 6c 1pΩ 6a+
Climb through the inverted scoop then left across the wall.
A short route up the right edge of the orange streak.
The scoopy slab an leaning wall to jugs.
The sustained wall from the right-hand side of the niche.
The right-hand side of the tall tower is good and hard.
Fingery moves right if the orange scoop.
Hard climbing left of the water-streak.
n Ole mi Belén
2tΩ 6a
The right arete of the slab and leaning pillar above.
The rib right of the water-streak is good!
g Tela con la Paula tΩ 6c
m Ta if on s S2
tfΩ 6a+
h Artero no seas duro
ftΩ 7a j Licencia para matar sΩ 6c+
, Hi perm an ia
1Ω 6a
A steep start and technical finish.
. Mama ya lo sabe
1Ω 6b+ 1Ω 6b
/ Ali Baba
1Ω 5 1Ω 6a
! L ei va s how
1Ω 5+
f Vay a mar rón
A leaning wall leads to a slab and an easy groove.
k Maldita hepatitis l Li nda bon ita
Pull into the shallow groove and bridge up this.
; No te inquietes un 7 Ω 6b+ The leaning wall leads to an easier rib above.
z Uhele a bacalao
1Ω 6b
From a grassy niche, climb the steep wall leftwards.
Technical climbing past a couple of clumps of grass.
An hour-glass shaped pillar leads to good climbing above.
Pleasant enough and too tough for 5+.
The blunt rib that is the last real feature of the wall.
@ Las pelotas rosas £ Luz solar A 'quickie' that gets the sun first.
Ω5 Ω 5+
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Sax (Cabreras)
Sector Cumbre
Sax (Cabreras)
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Sector Cumbre
ES$KC
Sector Cumbre
35m
20 min
32m Zona del Buho
20m
Sax (Cabreras) - Sector Cumbre The ne crag o Sax has an extra sector not covered in the book Spain : Costa Blanca. Sector Cumbre is perched high on the hillside south (let looking in) o Peñas del Rey at Sax and provides some excellent extra climbing or those looking to explore a bit urther. The wall contains some great routes on immaculate rock the only drawback being the slightly tortuous ankle-scratching approach slog up the slope to get to the buttress. Many o the routes have well-spaced bolts so carry a ew wires i you have them. Access - No climbing rom 1 February to 1 June because o nesting birds. This restriction is put in orce when the birds nest; it has been known to have been in place as early as December. Check the sign at the start o the path. Approach - See page 106 o the 2013 guidebook or how to get to Sax and Peñas del Rey. Continue along the track rom the main parking spot to a second parking spot. Walk round the end o the cultivated land
a
The first routes are on the short wall just left of the main buttress.
1 Moreno machacón
tfpΩ 7b+
to where a yellow/white fashed track heads diagonally to the right. From the start o this an ill-dened and sparingly-cairned track runs straight up the hill to the cli. Descent - Some o t he routes have lower-os and some top-out. For the ones which top-out, a selection o gear is probably required or the belay, i not on the route itsel. From the top, walk down the let-hand side (looking in) o the crag.
ES$KC 20 min
20m
To the right is an attractive open groove/crack line.
5
1tfΩ 6c+
The wall left of the main groove is thin.
6 Ingreso cadáver
1tΩ 6b+
A tricky wall climb. Poor belay on the top.
t
1
2
3
1sΩ 6a
8 Gorilero
1Ω 6a
The left-trending line requires some delicate slab work.
9 Tauro
1hΩ 6a
The name is painted on the bottom. To get rid of the flutter symbol, carry a few wires.
2thΩ 6b+
The name is painted at the bottom. 1) 6b+, 18m. A technical wall with spaced bolts. 2) 6b+, 14m. Move out right and then skirt past the bulge on its left-hand side.
w Fiesta salvaje
The right-hand of the trio past some holes and a bulge.
The crack line in the groove is not very helpful. The wall to the left is of material assistance.
r
1tΩ 6b
A good pitch up the wall.
14m
tΩ 6c
1tΩ 6b+
qw e
The pleasantly sustained slab.
q Zombis
Up the right-facing corner.
5 Asesinato premeditado
0
7 Pincha pansida
0 Tubular Bells
2 R omp e b rag as Ω 6a+
4 Homicidio frustrado
9
y uio p a
Zona Del Buho About 200m to the right o Sector Cumbre are a ew more routes dotted around a more broken section o rock. The routes here are not particularly good and the path to them is awkward. The most obvious eature here is a large triangular pinnacle at the base o the wall. Let o a pinnacle is a clean wall with two 6cs and a 7b on it. The pinnacle itsel has two 5+ routes on it. Further right are another seven routes in the 6b to 7a range.
Disproportionately hard for this crag.
3 P ol la as es ina
6 78
2sΩ 6b+
The central line of the face is well worth doing. 1) 6a+, 18m. Up the thin pocketed seam to small stance. 2) 6b+, 14m. Move left and power past the bulge.
e Busque y compare 4 6
2Ω 6a+
Another route with spaced bolts and its name at the base. 1) 6a+, 18m. The face right of the central groove, sustained. 2) 6a+, 14m. Sneak to the right of the capping bulge.
r De película
2tΩ 6b+
1) 6a+, 16m. Start by a detached flake and head straight up. 2) 6b+, 18m. Continue directly to the top - probably the best protected pitch on the cliff.
t Toreros muertos
1tΩ 6b+
1) 6a+, 14m. Start at the name and climb straight up the wall. 2) 6b+, 18m. Head up the shallow groove line directly above.
y Demonio con faldas
1tfΩ 7a
1) 6a+, 18m. Spaced bolts lead up the wall to a small stance. 2) 7a, 16m. Thin moves lead quickly to easier ground.
u Lucecitas de colores
2Ω 6a+
i Jabato con pie de gato
1Ω 6a+
o Gringo
1Ω 6a+
p Civera
2Ω 5+
1) 6a+, 16m. Start right of a shallow scoop, then traverse above it to gain a groove line and a small stance. 2) 6a+, 22m. Climb the groove to the top.
1) 6a, 24m. From the name, a long sustained pitch. 2) 6a+, 14m. On to the top in the same line. Short and sharp.
1) 6a+, 20m. Up the face to a belay in a shallow scoop. 2) 6a+, 16m. Direct to the top from the stance.
1) 5, 20m. The prominent groove is followed to the cave. 2) 5+, 14m. Finish out left from the stance in the cave.
a Sensaciones azuladas
1tΩ 6a+
1) 5+, 20m. The wall to the right of Civerea. Share its belay. 2) 6a+, 14m. Finish out rightwards from the cave.
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Foradà
Extra Sectors
Alcoi Uxola is not the most popular crag, it's not that the climbing is bad - though it is hard - it more that the place is poorly situated above a busy town and is really awkward to get to rom the coast. In spite o these drawbacks, a worthwhile day's climbing can be had here since the actual routes are quite good, especially in the harder grades. They are well equipped with new bolts and lower-os. The grades tend to be a notch harder than elsewhere and it is probably only o real interest to people who lead 7a and above, although the slab at the top o the crag has some easier oerings and the classic o Mosca is worth calling in or.
Minipimer
Cuentos Populares
Psiquatrico
Comic
Super Heroes
Television
Elecciones
e g a s s a P
About 100m
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Alcoi
South Face
Conditions Minipimer
Psiquatrico
14m
YS$
q
Cuentos Populares 20m
10 min
Approach
12m
6 4
1
The crag aces south and is sheltered making it a real sun-trap. Due to its angle, it will stay dry in light rain but will get wet pretty quickly in heavier stu.
2
3
Foradà - Extra Sectors
5
7
8 9
0
w
Bins
Sector Cuentos Populares
There are a ew extra routes on the north ace o Foradà spread across three distinct sectors. Approach - See page 127 o the 2013 guidebook or how to get to Foradà.
This is the left-hand (looking at the North Face) of the two pinnacles in front of its right-hand side. It has several routes on its shady side. The other pinnacle has little of interest.
Sector Psiquiatrico
The steep face just right of the arete.
About 80m down the hill, from the Sector Television, is a short wall with two steep routes on it.
7 Cuentos populares
1 Carne de psiquatrico
1tΩ 7a
Climb into a horizontal slot and over the bulge above.
2 Bloqueo mental
1tsΩ 7b
The wall past a useful tufa.
Sector Minipimer At the very bottom of the ridge is a short wall that gets the evening sun.
3 Termomix
1tsΩ 7b
The left-hand line is very technical.
4 Picadora Mulinex
1tΩ 7a+
5 M ini pim er
1tΩ 7a+
Start as for Termomix but trend right across the wall.
Steeper but less sustained than its neighbours.
Alcoi is approximately 50km north o Alicante, in the middle o the mountains. Leave the AP-7 at junction 50 and head into the town. Follow this next bit careully because i you get lost, then you will nd yoursel in a maze o one-way streets. Take the N340 into the town and turn let over a bridge at a T-junction. Follow this road as it curves round over another bridge then turn let at some lights beore a tall church. Drive straight up here ('Calle Espronceda') to the top and turn right at another T-junction. Drive along this road until acing directly at some bins. Turn let onto 'Carrer Isabel la Católica'. Drive up here and turn let at a blue mini roundabout. Continue down here until acing a no entry then turn right uphill. At the top o this road turn let below some pylons. Drive to the end o this road and park. The crag is up the hill a short distance.
6 Tres cerditos
1tΩ 6c 1tΩ 7a
Alcoi Uxola GPS 38.70299 -0.48647
Bridge
Turn left by church
The centre of the highest part of the face.
tΩ 7a+ 9 Pinocho Ω 6b+ 0 Juan Sin Miedo tΩ 7a 8 Dumbo
Turn left over bridge Alcoi
CV-7881 A-7
A direct line to the lower-off of the previous route, passing the left edge of an overlap at half-height. On the south side of the pinnacle is a short tufa line.
q Las botas de 7 leguas
CV-70 N340
1fΩ 6c+
Plough up the enticing tufas.
50
The smaller pinnacle to the left (looking at the North Face) of the main pinnacle, has a solitary route.
w Chiquitín Ω 6b+ A bolted slab with a steep start.
About 1km
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Alcoi
RS*
Uxola
Alcoi
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Uxola
RS*
22m
10 min
10 min
22m
24m 22m
f
14m
3 4 1
2
j
56 7 89 0 q
l
u a
w rt e y
dg i
The first routes are located on the slab at the top left corner of the crag, reached by scrambling up under the face.
1 Gusano loco Ω 5+ The unremarkable first (or last) line on the cliff.
2 Nen butrut
Ω 6a
Start left of the shrubbery and go direct.
3 Susi
1tΩ 6a
Start at the name Acido and trend left up the slab to join the last bit of the previous climb.
4 Acido
1tΩ 6a+
Start as for Susi but go direct, keeping right of the grass.
5 Mírate
1stΩ 6a+
Start at the name and trend right up the sustained slab.
6 Mírate variación
Ω 5+
An easier variation starting from just down the slope.
7 Migueleño Schwarzeneger
1Ω 5+
The shallow groove in the centre of the slab.
8 Vamp iro
2tfΩ 6a+
The bubbly grey rib from a small left-slanting ramp.
9 Beso negro 1ftsΩ 6c Climb direct to the bush on Mosca, then up the steep rib.
0 Flipo
16m
s
1rtΩ 8a
Over the smooth bulge and up the red streak. Thin!
q Orinal con pedales
o
p
;
z
x
c
2tsΩ 6c+
w Mosca
2tΩ 6a+
Excellent climbing up the obvious diagonal corner/ramp. The crux is a tricky bulge low-down and the lower-off is out left on the slab. Well worth the effort. 30m of climbing.
e Jetro 1sprΩ 7b
Up the bulging yellow wall above the tip of the ramp of Mosca . Long reaches between big pockets.
2tsΩ 7b+
A fine sustained offering up the pocketed leaning wall 3m right of the base of the ramp of Mosca .
t Pestañas postizas
2tsΩ 7b
y Super flan
1tsΩ 7c
The wall and rib left of the cave with chains. Pumpy!
A technical and pumpy one up the shallow scoop - nasty!
u Guapo del sapo 1tpsΩ 7b Short and pumpy with a low crux, but it is still desperate!
i Mejillas tiernas
1tΩ 8a
A steep line past the pair of large ‘eyes’ early on.
o M ol du ra
k
a
The bulge to the right has larger holds. Start left of the ramp and climb the wall on pockets (threads) and holes.
r Vómitos leprosos
h
1tsΩ 8a
From the orange streak, battle it out with the tufas.
p M es ca lit o
1tΩ 8a
The tilted wall (name) is the best of the trio of 8a routes.
v
b
2tΩ 6b
a Dimitiré Macro Plus 3tpΩ 7c+
k Veneno
A great route, powerful and with the crux near the top!
Climb past the glued flake, a niche and a juggy hole.
s E nda vi d 2sprΩ 7b+
l Polos palos lolos
Another good route, successfully following the "long reaches between pockets" formula.
d Espera de Juan Lema
2sΩ 7a+
A more pumpy direct finish to the next route.
f Oleada pétrea 3stΩ 6c+
Brilliant climbing up the overhanging wall. Break right where the jugs run out. Hard for the grade.
g Di st ri to
2stΩ 6c
Gain the scoop of Oleada pétrea via the right-hand line and then finish as for that route.
h Ve na Loc a
1fΩ 7a+
Steep climbing passing right of the tufa high on the wall.
j Que se mueran los feos
1Ω 7a
An easier right-hand finish to Vena Loca.
1Ω 6a
A combination of the easier sections of these two routes.
; Araña
1tΩ 6b
From the horizontal break, (name) the ragged crack and shallow groove are reached with difficulty. The next five routes climb the blocky rock right of the groove.
z Aniceto que te meto Ω 6b
Start at the graffiti name and climb the rib past a useful blob to a rightward exit.
x Ventana electrónica tΩ 6b+ Start below a bush and climb the wall direct.
c Tentáculos
Ω 5+
The grey wall (name) flake and rib. The easiest here.
v Gr ipt or qui dea Ω 6a The short and unremarkable leaning wall.
b Los chinos Ω 6a+ The route nearest the car is a good example of the grades further to the left!
Morro Falqui
Mini GUIDES from rockfax.com
Morro Falqui is the imposing headland to the north o the beaches and deep water soloing north o Moraira. The saddle-shaped headland can be clearly seen rom the DWS crags o Cala del Moraig and has been developed by German climber Hagen Goetzke and riends. Easy access and a sunny setting should ensure that you have a good day out here. The routes cover a good spread o grades rom 4+ to 6c and the superb 6-pitch Sonjannika in particular should prove to be very popular.
Morro Falqui
Mini GUIDES from rockfax.com
West Face 15m
Descent
1 2
3
4
Access Some o the crags around Moraira have had access problems and there is a lot o development taking place so make sure you park with consideration and avoid making lots o noise.
Approach From Teulada, Javea or Moraira, take the road to Benitaxtell. On the eastern edge o Benitaxtell, turn right towards Urbanisacion 'Cumbre del Sol'. From the point you enter the complex, by the inormation centre, ollow the road or 3.8km as it winds up into the urbanisation to reach a large supermarket on the let. To go to the West and South Faces . Turn let about 100m past the supermarket, just ater a pharmacy. Turn right at the second junction - a roundabout marked 'Pueblo de la Paz' Follow this street; at a 4-way junction, take the 2nd road rom the right (ie. roughly straight on). At a sharp (hairpin) let bend, drive straight on down a short cul-de-sac between two houses, with open land at the end - park here. From the parking, take a narrow track but leave this ater 10m and head right, parallel to the back wall o the houses, heading or the right o a small knoll. Follow the path that becomes visible as soon as you start going downhill. To gain the routes rom above, head towards a low point in the cli top. Routes 1 to 16 are right o this and routes 17 to 20 start 30m let o this point. For routes 1 to 16, keep close to the right-hand edge o the crag. For routes 17 to 20, ollow the path leading slightly letwards and leave it ater approximately 200m, then bush-bash to the abseil anchors on the right. Approach to Sonjannika - see page17.
6
30m
w
RG 5 min
Morro Falqui - West Face
1 C om ing Ou t
25m
2Ω 4+
40m
To and through the hole/tunnel - amusing. No lower-off.
2 Schneggerla
1sΩ 5+
3 Disorder
1fΩ 6a
The steep right wall of the cave, exiting right.
The steep corner 10m right of the cave.
4 Andrina 3tpΩ 6a
A quality solitary route in the taller face to the right. Start at a block, climb the face leftwards and then up to a slot. Two little bulges lead to the belay on the right.
q 0
4 56
15m to the right down the slope the routes get longer.
Supermarket
5 Wok Dolly
2shΩ 6c
Cumbre del Sol
6 Get on Top
2tfΩ 6c
Start one metre left of a crack, sustained climbing on sharp rock. The bolts are a bit spaced
CV-740
7 Solarmissionar
1fΩ 5+
Start up a left facing groove then move left and climb the face above (crux) to a finish up a crack.
Benitaxtell
8 Polarpissoir
From Teulada
1sΩ 6a
The curving groove in the pillar to the right leads to more groove climbing above. Sustained. Cumbre del Sol
Barranco del Testos
GPS 38.71416 0.17303
The next three climbs are long pitches that share a common start up a slabby rib down and right, just before the cliff swings round to face the sea.
9 Was chbä r 9 About 2km
GPS 38.71224 0.16729
Morro Falqui
Cala del Moraig
Cala del Testos
3Ω 5
Start up the slabby rib keeping slightly left left. Then head right to enter and follow the groove throughout to fine finish out on the arete.
7
8 9
The bolts are a bit spaced.
From Benitaxtell
8
0 ARA 11
w
1tfΩ 5+
As for the last route for 15m then straight up and left to a ledge, then up the face above
q Welt 17 Ω 6a+
Start as for the previous route but continue up the groove for 10m then climb the face on the left. Unbalanced and not really recommended.
w Moria
1stΩ 5+
A pleasant face climb. Start 2 metres right of the last climb. Trend rightwards to cross a groove, then things ease up in the upper half.
Mini GUIDES from rockfax.com West Face
Morro Falqui
South Face
5 min
Sonjannika Area
30m 25m to start
i u ty
w e
a
Unknown line
s
r op
Barranco del Testos
The final two routes are on the tall front face of the cliff overlooking the sea. Although these can be accessed from above by four abseils (35m, 25m, 35m, 45m - see topo) it is easier (and less gripping) to walk/scramble to the base of the cliff (via the Cala del Testos if required) then traverse to the start of the route. Full approach (see page 14 for the approach to the supermarket and a map) - This approach gains the Cala del Testos and the start of Sonjannika . Pass the supermarket as in the normal cliff-top approach, but stay on the main road and follow this downhill past several sweeping bends to a to a three-way junction with a parking on the left, 1.3km from the supermarket (the road leads to the main beach of the Cumbre del Sol). Park here and go back 20m up the road where you find steps leading down to the Barranca los Testos. Follow the gorge for about 20 minutes. There are 3 sections that require steep down-climbing but they are equipped with ropes. For a swim, head down to the beautiful isolated beach that lies at the end of the gorge. For access to the climbing, turn left before the 3rd down-climb and follow a wire cable. Then walk through the giant caves to the front face of the cliffs. Scramble down 20m, traverse around the corner and traverse another 30m to find a small path leading up to the start of the route.
d Silberruecken
The next pair of routes start either side of a small cave.
e Blutzoll
2sΩ 6b+
Steep and sustained. Start left of the cave, reach a crack which leads up to an easier finish
r Im Hagel
1fΩ 6b+
A juggy start on the right-hand side of the cave, leads to a fingery section in the middle. Finish up a groove.
A short line on the left.
p Hagen and the Test Tube Monkeys
f Sonjannika
The next routes start from the lower ledge.
o Kleiner Mann, was nun?
1rΩ 6a 2pΩ 6c+
Very overhanging bouldering to a big finish. Traverse to the right to reach a little cave, then power though the bulge to the belay one of the upper routes. A real gorilla test-piece.
1plΩ
To reach 15 to 18, follow the ledge below 14 for 10m, then 5+ climb up a fixed rope to reach a cave with a belay. These routes a BGM have a hard start and easier finishes on perfect sharp grey rock. An impressive groove is steep and juggy, but a bit loose. Wear There are two lower-offs at the top, which can also be reached a helmet while belaying or stay under the overhang at the start. The fixed gear consists of many threads. Start left of the big from the top by scrambling down a fixed rope. groove with an overhanging face to reach an easy rib, leading up to the groove. Climb this on big holds.
t Gold
2ftΩ 6b+
Start just right of the belay and follow the golden bolts directly up the wall.
y Silber
1fΩ 6b
From the belay traverse two metres right and then straight up the face following the silver bolts.
u Edelstahl
1Ω 6b
Start up Silber and follow the stainless bolts, slightly rightwards up the face.
i B lat tgo ld
2pΩ 6a+
Traverse 4m right and a down a little from the belay to reach the first golden bolt, then up the face, keeping to the right.
2tsΩ 6b
The left-hand side of the lower tier in three interesting pitches. 1) 4+, 30m. From the first bolt of Sonjannika climb straight up the slab, then move left and right over two steps. 2) 6b, 25m. Climb the crack on the right, then make some tricky moves up the vertical face, finishing on an easier slab. 3) 6a, 28m. Traverse to the left then slightly right to reach a huge cave. Exit from this on its left-hand side via a bulge to reach another traverse to the left to gain the top of the cliff.
f Morro Falqui - South Face
Mini GUIDES from rockfax.com
Sonjannika
Morro Falqui - Sonjannika
EG$ 35m
Morro Falqui
s Moorhuhn Winter Edition
2Ω 6a
Start from the shoulder at the end of the ledge. Head up the face to reach a shallow groove which is followed to the top. Sharp rock and technical climbing with some great positions.
3tΩ 6a+
A spectacular route with great (and sharp!) rock. With the walk round option on pitch 5, it makes the whole route only 5+. 1) 4+, 40m. Start with an easy pitch traversing diagonally right on a slab. 2) 5, 15m. Climb up to a groove and then left to the belay. 3) 5+, 30m. An S-shaped pitch, ending in a little cave on an exposed pillar. 4) 5, 25m. Exposed! Climb out of the cave with 100m of fresh air below you, then up a pillar. The belay is higher up on a block 3m above a bushy ledge. 5) 6a+, 25m. Climb up a short chimney, then move right onto a slab to get to the top of a big flake. A couple of fingery moves reach the next stance. 5a) 40m. Pitch 5 can be avoided by scrambling round to the left via a short section of fixed rope. 6) 5+, 35m. Climb up right for 5m, then another 15m up a rib to a shallow groove. The block above is climbed on its right-hand side, then traverse horizontally left for 6m, around an edge. Move up to the belay. To the right is another route (currently a project) that runs up slabby rock to join Sonjannika a short way below the ledge systems. Out on the steep rock on the prow of the cliff is an line of bolts approached by abseil. No details are know about it though it looks pretty tough!
EG$ 20 min
s f
a
90m
60m
30m
d f
Mini GUIDES from rockfax.com
El Picayo
El Picayo is a tall ace o good quality rock with some long routes. It has been around or years but has seen little traic recently despite most o the routes being re-bolted. The quality o the climbing is good and there is a good spread o grades although not much in the green spot category. The routes do need to see a bit o traic though since some have become slightly overgrown. It is a good crag to combine with a day at Montessa.
Approach
Mini GUIDES from rockfax.com
El Picayo
ES 15 min
Note - Routes lines and inormation is suspect or routes 1 to 4, and 14 to 21. Any eedback would be appreciated.
df
Drive to Moixent on the A35. From the centre o the town, pick up a road to the south signed to Aielo de Malerit. This road leads up and out o the village. Ater about 5km you arrive at a bend where there is a clear view o the crag high above. Continue around the back o the crag to nd a small track on the right (6.2km rom the centre o Moxient). Drive up this track and park as best you can so as not to block the track. Continue walking up the track to a large building at the top. The direct path to the crag is hard going so try and nd a path on the ar side o the building leading rightwards up the hill. This swings around at a high level over the rst rocky cli (which has a ew routes) and drops down to the main crag.
t
s a u
Conditions The crag is a south-acing sun-trap with no shade on oer. It can get very hot here but could be just the place on a crisp winter day. There will be no dry climbing in the rain and it may get breezy i there is a wind blowing.
3 45 6 7 1 2
y wer 8 9 0 q
Mogente/Moixent
23
GPS 38.85956 -0.71547
t Directa Manuel Duque Ω 6a
1Ω 6c 2tΩ 6c+
0 Toreros Muertos q Tumores vilche
2tΩ 7a e Jaque a la jaca 2Ω 6c w Picayo Twelve
A nice position on the edge of the main wall. About 500m
Ω 6a+
Ω 6a 3 P ic ay o Thr ee Ω 6a 4 Picayo F our Ω 5+ 5 P ic ay o Fi ve 1Ω 5+ 6 O u k r a n o s 1Ω 6a 7 Picayo Seven 1tfΩ 6c+ 8 Comentaris punk 1Ω 6b+ 9 Picayo Nine nΩ 5+
Hard moves pulling past the central overlap. See cover photo.
El Picayo
op
r Os re sen ti dos
Trad line up the central weakness.
CV-651
i
1 Picayo One Ω 5+ 2 Picayo Two
A-35
g
Poor climbing up broken rock past the tree.
y S ol de car al lo Ω 6a+ u Picayo Seventeen Ω 6a+ i Bum Bum Bamoco Ω 6a+ o Yos co s G al er i Ω 6b p Orquesta Malvariche Ω 6a+ a Toma dos 'Pum' Ω 6a s B ar ri gu it as
tΩ 6c
An easy first pitch (old bolt and thread) lead up and left to a ledge. Belay here and climb the left-hand line.
d Hambre del tercer mundo tΩ 7a The central line on the upper wall.
f Sequia en Etiopía
tΩ 6b+
g Farabundo Marti
1Ω 6b+
The right-hand line on the upper wall.
Far right-hand line. Start past a peg then up to a bulge (hidden bolt). From the top of the pinnacle swing right and up the excellent steep wall.
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Baranc de l'Avern
The Barranc de l'Avern is a deep-cut twisting ravine with a lot o exposed rock and a busy road running through it. I it wasn't or the road it would be an extremely pleasant location but even with this drawback it is still a worthwhile venue or middle grades climbers. The rock is good and the climbs tend to ollow vertical walls with some eaturing small overlaps. The gear is a bit old on some routes however there is some replacement going on. I the main gorge is a bit too noisy or you the Sectors Deposit and Visera should suite; they have an idyllic setting in a secluded valley, hemmed in by the hills and are a complete contrast to the other clis here.
Mini GUIDES from rockfax.com
Baranc de l'Avern Pared del Gegant
ES
30m 20m
10 min
Approach t w er
The gorge cuts east to west through the hills to the south o the town o Ontinyent, and is reached by ollowing the ring road passing several impressive roundabouts. Take the CV-81 (signed Bocarient and Villena) or just less than a kilometre rom the last roundabout to a parking place on the r ight immediately beore the second bridge in the gorge. This is the parking or the Pared del Gegant and Cagallo de Gegant, and is also the start o the road that runs up to the Sectors del Deposit and Visera. See the relevant pages or specic approaches to each sector.
1
Conditions Most o the sectors ace south and get plenty o sun. Although they are not exposed, it can be windy in the gorge however, this will have the benet o drying the place out quickly i it has been raining. Sector la Visera may oer something to climb in light rain. CV-81
From AP-7
4 3 2
5
q 6 7 89 0
The first route starts up a rounded rib at a lower level which is most easily reached by a short traverse.
1 Satiro 2 Milotxo
Ontinyent
1nΩ 5+
Follow the rib passing old bolts and threads, and placing your own gear when required. Lower-off as for the next route.
1fΩ 5+
The left edge of the main face has new bolts low down then older ones above. Reach it by a short traverse out from the end of the ledge. The lower-off is on the right at the top.
3 Bordi
CV-660
2fΩ 6a
From the left end of the ledge trend slightly left to climb the rib and prominent thin crack. Above this follow flakes.
4 En un moment
2ftΩ 6b
Start as for Bordi and follow the line of bolts just to its right. Sustained and excellent.
5 Pinocho
CV-81
1fΩ 6a
Trend rightwards up a long black streak.
6 Tempranmillo
1fΩ 6a
Tackle the yellow streak marked by a line of old bolts.
7 Sangunsa
CV-655
Gegant La Via Cagallo Visera Depòsit
About 1km
2ftΩ 6c+
Climb the fine pillar of grey rock. Great climbing unfortunately protected by a mixture of old bolts and threads.
GPS 38.79642 -0.60872
GPS 38.79651 -0.59603
8 B ot amo nt s
2fΩ 6c
Climb to a wriggling crack at 10m with a black drainage streak issuing from its base and continue in the same line.
9 S an da li o To Bocairent and Villena
3tΩ 7a
Take the tricky lower wall and pass the left edge of a vegetated ledge. Climb the upper wall via scoops and bulges.
Pared del Gegant The spectacular grey sheet o rock oers some ne ace routes in an impressive setting. Approach - Follow a track under a bridge, cross the dry river and scramble up to the rim o the water conduit. Follow this letwards, crossing it at the rst opportunity. Scramble up the bank passing to the let o a pinnacle (the top o the Cagallo de Gegant) to two trees on the ridge. Behind and right o these, pass a low rocky band via an awkward chimney, to the second pylon on the ridge. Just above this, a ramp leads back down to the let to the oot o the ace.
0 Sans Svesgota
2tΩ 7b+
q Man kane
2tΩ 7a+
w Hector
3tΩ 7a
Climb to the right side of the ledge to a hard finale with the lower-off just left of a bush on the crest of the wall.
Fine, sustained climbing following new bolts, passing to the right of a large flowering shrub.
The last route on the main section of the wall is protected by nice new blue bolts and has a tough upper rib. The next routes are 20m further right on a steep orange wall.
e Morir d'amor
2tfΩ 7b
The left-hand line up the wall.
r Tot ras
2tΩ 7a+
Good climbing passing to the left of the deep hole.
t Sesion de noche
2Ω 6c
y Te de tot
1Ω 6b+
Gain a deep hole from the right, then finish out right.
The less remarkable right-hand line.
A further 50m to the right are two more shorter climbs:
u Anillo de cuero
1Ω 6b+
On the left.
i P un t mor t ...and on the right.
1tΩ 7a
Mini GUIDES from rockfax.com
Baranc de l'Avern Cagallo de Gegant
EA*
Cagallo de Gegant
3 min
18m
10m
5
1
2 34
1 S'has Golo
6 7
fΩ 7a+
Start 4m left of the bridge. The initial bulge is crossed by some harsh pocket pulling. Pass more bulges and a bush to a lower-off on the rim.
2 Barrufets
1fΩ 6c
Start 1m left of the plank bridge and pocket-pull around the right edge of the smooth bulges and then head up the easier rib above. The lower-off is rather antiquated.
3 Pitufos
1fsΩ 6a
Start opposite the plank bridge at a bush. Climb the rib immediately right of the bulges - sustained and fingery - with particularly thin moves to enter the final crack.
4 Pelawatios
1Ω 6a
Climb left of a yellow scar at 6m then through a bulge (old bolts) and up the steep wall to a new lower-off on the right.
5 Espero Boxerini
1Ω 6a
The wall below the arete high on the cliff has one awkward move to gain the cleaned crack. The arete is pleasantly juggy and is climbed on layaways. Move left to the lower-off.
6 Dolores
1Ω 6a
A line of new bolts up the wall. At the top step left and bridge the corner to a lower-off in the left wall.
7 Caragol
Ω
5
Start up a short rib above the narrowest part of the path and climb the wall, passing a couple of tricky moves at two thirds height, to a lower-off by a small tree.
Impolitely known as The Giant's Turd, the section o rock above the water channel is south-acing and has some good closely-packed climbs up to 20m in length. Approach - Follow the track under the bridge, cross the dry river bed and scramble up to the rim o the water conduit. Turn right and walk along the rim o the conduit until a plank can be crossed to the oot o the wall. The climbs are listed rom let to right, starting to the let o the ootbridge.
r e qw 0 9 8
8 Ti ra li ca lc et i
Ω 6a+
To the right are four closely packed lines up the wall, all are pleasant but unremarkable.
9 Cap de caixo Ω 6a
The first route right of the cave has a prominent bolt early on. Climb left of a yellow flake up two short leaning walls.
0 Dolores con piano Ω 6a
Follow the line of new bolts over an overlap and straight on up the orange wall.
q Flamingo
Ω 6a
An older bolt above the 1st overhang marks the start. Climb grey bubbly rock and a left-trending shallow groove.
w Tortugo
Ω 6a
The face just left of an easy groove is reached over a couple of overhangs and climbed via a broken flake.
e L'ortage
EA* 3 min
18m 18m
g o
Ω4
The left-hand flake on the right side of the buttress is quite hard for the grade.
r Obré Llaunes Ω 4 The odd wide yet shallow chimney feature is bridged or jammed to a selection of lower-offs.
h
a
t y
r
Starting at a cave at the base of the cliff, climb direct up a narrowing slab, an orange groove and a short leaning wall.
Mini GUIDES from rockfax.com
Baranc de l'Avern Cagallo de Gegant
u
i
p
To the right is an easy left-slanting ramp and then another buttress with the prominent flake crack of Va que's per hui towards its left-hand side.
t Sopa de ganso
sΩ 6a+
The left-facing orange crack on the left side of the wall is followed to difficult moves out right to reach the lower-off.
y Va que's per hui
1sΩ 6a
Start immediately right of a large flake and reach the thin hanging crack via an overhang and some left-trending grooves. It gives excellent sustained climbing to a lower-off on the left.
u Roca bola
1gtΩ 6a+
A steep start up a rusty red flake and grey wall, then the left side of the broad bulging rib. The route features plenty of unhelpful holds and a traverse out right to reach the lower-off.
i Pancho verde
1ftΩ 7b
o M it ja v ía
1ftΩ 6c+
A line of green bolts up the blank rib is hideously hard.
A line through the smooth scoop. Start as for the last route but step out right to thin fingery climbing up the scoop.
p Man fotuto
1ftΩ 7a+
The right side of the scoop is a fierce sharp pitch.
a Bon tacto
1Ω 7a+
A right-hand finish to Man fotuto up the rounded rib. To the right the cliff bulges in its lower section and is capped by a long narrow roof. The routes offer good climbing on solid rock but the steep loose ledges at the base are a pain!
s
d
f
j
l k
s S i ha y s ir oc o
Ω 6c+
A line up tilted grey rock passing below the scar where a tree used to be, then trending left to the lower-off.
d Ara no Bailo Ω 6b+ The lower bulges are tackled via a hanging ramp/niche. Pull over the left end of the final overhang.
For the next routes, scramble up and right to where there are two low bolts close together at the base of the wall.
f M art i Tir al i
1Ω 6b
g La penya dels Butifarras
1Ω 6a+
Pull over the right side of the lower bulge then trend left up the fine grey wall to the lower-off of the previous climb.
A direct line above the start of the last climb up the wall then across the small roof to finish.
h Pablito clavo un clavito 1Ω 6b
Start from a flat ledge and climb past a big bolt into a scoop then follow a left-trending scoop to the lower-off.
j De repente un parapent
tΩ 6c+
The same start leads to the rib just to the right and an exit rightwards through the roof.
k S ec cio h omos tΩ 6c
Follow the groove to the right of the rib to the roof and finish straight through these.
l Desastre per a un sastre pΩ 6b+ The last line here starts up the shattered bubbly rib on the right then powers leftwards through the roof.
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Baranc de l'Avern Pared de la Via
ES
Mini GUIDES from rockfax.com
Baranc de l'Avern Pared de la Via
ES
35m
10 min
10 min
35m 30m 28m 18m 15m
j s 1
2
3
4
Ω 6a+
A short line up an awkward leaning white crack.
2 Brimonster
Ω 6b+
The ragged overhanging crack starting from a bay.
3 El principe Ω A project up a white rib and a thin wriggly crack line.
4 Alex
Ω
Another project up a grey slab and yellow streak.
5 Orelles curtes
1sΩ 7a
Climb the wall passing left of a prominent flake, through a bulge before trending right to reach the lower-off.
6 Orelles Llargues
r t
y
h g df
a u iop
Next is a steep grey slab up which the next three climbs start.
Pared de la Via This cli is well up the valley (1.4km rom the main parking area) and rises above an impressive railway embankment. It is the most extensive crag in the area and has a good selection o routes. Approach - The cli is reached rom a parking area amongst ruined buildings under the ace. This is accessed via a short steep track that starts at a narrow entrance on the outside o the long right-hand bend directly opposite the cli. This section o road is ast and great care is needed when turning o here to avoid problems with traic driving down the gorge. From the parking, cross the river (log) then take a steep track that diagonals up along the base o the impressive embankment to the railway line. Walk let 50m then scramble up to the oot o the ace.
1 Capoll
0 5 6 78 9
q
e w
spΩ 6c
Start up a yellow wall, keeping right of the flake, passing through a large bulge, and finish up a leaning yellow wall.
7 Johnny Mendieta
2sΩ 6a+
From a cave, climb the left side of the slab through a small overlap, up a yellow streak and over a juggy bulge.
8 La ley del agarre
2ftΩ 6b+
Good and hard for the grade. Climb left of a hole at 8m then up the slab (easier to the left) and through the bulges.
9 Caxipolla
1fsΩ 6c
Up the right edge of the grey slab then through a series of overlaps to a lower-off hanging from the overhangs above.
0 No talles el teix
1fΩ 6b+
q El cerdo volador
1tΩ 6c
Climb steep rock then slabbier terrain until just below a bulging prow and make a finger-wrecking move out right.
Climb up the wall to below the final roof with the chains up and left. Reach them with difficulty.
w Baixada 41
1Ω 6c
Climb an easy rib then the centre of the back wall of the shallow cave. Up the sharp grey wall then trend right.
e M oc ador bl au
1Ω 6b
Start as for Baixada 41 but step right. Climb through the juggy bulges then move right and back left, to reach the same lower-off.
r Unknown
Ω
The long line of bolts to the right looks excellent though nothing is known about it .
t Calla
2pΩ 6b
Short but good. Climb the rib on sharp rock to below the prominent tufa. Make tough moves to reach it and go! 25m further right is the longest route on the cliff.
y Les mil i una nir 3ftΩ 7b
The show piece of the cliff? Start up a grey slab then follow a direct line straight up the face pulling through bulges and finishing close to the top of the wall.
u Orgullo blanca
2fΩ 6b
Climb the black slab (hard!) on crinkly holds then pull over an overlap and continue on much better holds.
i La tacta rouga
3sΩ 6c
Climb to a bolt on the lower lip of a hole 10m up, then head through the centre of a patch of yellow rock riddled with holds. Cross the overhang and finishing up grey rock above.
o Si te dicen que cai
3sΩ 7b
Easy rock leads to the first bolt at 10m. Pass a hole then on up smooth powder-grey streak, and bulging wall to a hole and on through more bulges above; a majestic pitch.
p Llum artificial
2sfΩ 6c
Climb easy slabs between bushes to reach a couple of old bolts. Above this new ones protect difficult moves up the steep wall to reach a diagonal break and the even steeper wall above.
a Mollerunga
2psΩ 6b
A tough pitch at the grade but well worthwhile. Move left and make hard moves to reach a large hole and harder moves to leave it. Continue on up the pumpy wall to easier climbing.
s Qu e pa ll is sa
2Ω 6a
Climb through some scoops then up a steep pocketed wall before finishing up a short rib on holds that keep appearing, and leading you to a conspicuous wire cable lower-off. Up and right are two new routes that share a prominent lower-off at 12m. The right-hand one climbs the bulging rib and looks about 6c, the other passes just right of a tufa and looks easier. The last five routes are clustered around a bay at the far right side of the cliff.
d Cinq-zero
1Ω 6a+
f Si, que
1Ω 6a
Climb the rib that forms the left edge of the right-facing flake passing a couple of ledges then continue up the scoop.
Climb steeply into a right-facing corner and continue, passing some rock scars, and up the slab to the last bolt. Make a short traverse right to the lower-off.
g Pipiolo
1sΩ 6a
Bridge up the back of the groove then swing left and mantleshelf onto a cleaned ledge. The slab gives sustained and delicate climbing, that slowly eases.
h Cap amunt
1Ω 5+
j Que facil
1Ω 5
Follow the easy rib and bulging wall then climb straight up the slab above until a couple of moves left lead to the belay.
Start as for the last climb up a bulging wall then follow a ramp up to the right. Take the right edge of the slab to a lower-off just short of the gully.
Mini GUIDES from rockfax.com
Baranc de l'Avern Sector la Visera
{S*! 5 min
{S*
Sector del Deposit
5 min
14m
15m
1 2
1 2 34 5
6
Sector la Visera A steeply-tilted wall with some good strenuous climbs across the gully rom the amenable Sector del Deposit. Approach - Turn up the track by the parking or the Pared del Gegant and drive up this or 200m to parking by the water pumping station. Do not block access or restrict the turning o other vehicles. The crag is ve minutes walk up the valley to the right o the buildings and is reached by a scramble let along ledges.
1 Misión Imposible
Ω
The first route on the face is (was?) a project.
2 Ca ll o l ar go
1pΩ 7b
Get into the big hole at 4m then swing left on to the leaning rib which is followed to the lower-off.
3 Eterna 1tpsΩ 6c+
Climb the grey and black tufa, then battle with the constricted and severely-overhanging groove above.
4 Antropomorfo
1Ω 6b+
Tackle the smart left-slanting orange ramp that narrows as it rises to a tricky exit.
5 Altair
1pΩ 6b+
Steep jug pulling leads into a cave, then climb the steep pocketed rock to a lower-off on the rim of the wall.
6 Pr em at ur o
1tΩ 7a
A leaning wall is climbed on finger pockets via an orange streak passing a hole with a bush in it. Finish up the rib.
7
8
Mini GUIDES from rockfax.com
Baranc de l'Avern Sector del Deposit
9 0 q w
7 Polivalent
e
1tfΩ 7b 1fΩ 7a+
The diagonal break that is main feature of the right side of the face is climbed by this route with a hard finish up a rib.
9 Tot mon tesoro
1ptΩ 7a+
Vicious moves up the steep wall.
0 Fraude millonario Ω 6a+
The first line on the left side of the arete, with a bulging start, then easier above.
q Tecnología puta
tΩ 7a
Green bolts protect this line on the right side of the arete.
w Mata Castellanas fΩ 6b+ Climb up a short sharp leaning wall, then more straightforward moves up the wall above.
On the right edge of the cliff is a rather scrubby slab. Three routes are on this and share a common lower-off.
e Pelailla Ω 5
Climb steeply up a yellow streak for 4m then make easier above to reach the l ower-off.
r Teoría en la Practica Ω 4 A friendly wall climb.
t Si una rosa es una rosa Ω 4 The rib and slab on the far right.
4
56 78
90 q w
t r
Tackle the right side of the hanging red rib - tufa climbing near the bottom then pocket pulling above.
8 La cara al venta
3
A short wall on rock that is vertical or gently overhanging. It gets plenty o aternoon sun and is quite well-sheltered. Approach - As or Sector La Visera but aim or the right-hand crag instead.
e r tyu
i
o
pas
1 Cala d 'or Ω 6a+
w Camaron
1Ω 7a
Ω 7a+
e Maulets
1Ω 6c
The first offering is perhaps the poorest on the cliff.
2 Masai Climb directly up the wall.
3 Tragaboles
1rΩ 6a+
The tufa systems are climbed on large spaced holds with a hard move at the top. Shorties might question the grade.
4 Styl de butifarra
1Ω 7a+
5 Dylyn Dylon
1Ω 7a
6 Placa del diamante
1Ω 7b
7 Tuarek
1Ω 7a
8 Butifarras
1Ω 6c+
The line just to the right of the prominent tufa systems.
Straight up the brown streak.
A gem up the left side of the orange streak.
The leaning wall is via the right edge of an orange streak.
Cross the bulges at an orange streak. Blue bolts.
9 Willy Devile
1fΩ 6b+
0 Ra tamp lan
1sΩ 6b
Start at a big block on the ground and head for the top!
The wall left of a groove with the crux at the very top.
q Ta tac ham
1tΩ 6a+
A tough move over the lower roof and sustained above.
Tackle the roof at its widest part.
Cross the narrow roofs then up the wall above.
r Linxo de Bolinoxo
1fΩ 6c+
Black bolts. A hard start through roofs then easier moves.
t El somni
1Ω 7a+
y Bomberos
1Ω 6c+
Climb tufas, two roofs and the crinkly red wall above.
Green bolts protect this line that weaves up the wall.
u Pepe trola
Ω 7a
i Arácnido
Ω 6b+
Start below a tufa, pull over the centre of the roof and then climb the steep back wall of the bay above.
The right edge of the overlap and the bay above.
o Pato mas
1Ω 7b
The steep arete left of the lowest point of the cliff.
p P it ar as
2ftΩ 6b+
Superb. Up a leaning wall precariously then more strenuously up the wall above. The drilled 'mono' is easily avoided!
a Ta ra mba na
1Ω 6b
From a block climb red rock via a hollow and over bulges.
s Nu it d' amo ur
Ω 6a
Start on the far right and climb a grey rib, some bulges and odd rock above.