Saudi Arabia _Voyager

Discover! Saudi Arabia

Autumn 2011 2011 / issue seven

Al-Ahsa getaway

Destination Tarut Island weekend

Al-Magar discovery Origins of the Arabian horse

Environment Saving the Houbara Bustard EVENTS | GUIDES | REVIEWS | DESTINATIONS | TOURS | TRAVEL | CULTURE | INDUSTRY

_ INTRODUCTION _ INTRODUCTION / SAUDI VOYAGER / SAUDI VOYAGER VOYAGER

Saudi Voyager

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s we go to press with this latest edition of Saudi Voyager , the pleasant Saudi Arabian fall weather is with us. I often tell those who don’t know the Kingdom well that our best-kept secret is the weather. Except for a few hot summer months, the weather is truly idyllic for most of the year. It is only the uninitiated who think we are plagued by year-round "desert" weather. In reality, while our neighbors are sweating it out in unpleasant humidity and high temperatures, we are sitting out in the garden, at the park, or in the countryside enjoying picnics, camp fires, and barbeques in beautiful, temperate weather. With the combination of the approaching Eid Al-Adha festivities and the nice fall weather, weather, our lead article in this edition is on a recommended Eid getaway to Al Ahsa (page 33). Our intrepid reporter has surveyed the many attractions that make for an excellent weekend getaway inside the Kingdom, a break from the routine and a chance to visit places of historic interest. A nother destination with historic interest is the Eastern Region’s Tarot Island, which we also cover as a potential Eid trip (page 46). On the subject of historic interest, we carry a fascinating news report on the recent discovery in the Kingdom of a site with remains of human civilization from nine thousand years ago–including evidence of farming and animal husbandry (page 43). Of course, you'll need a map to get to all the se fascinating places; we report on one Saudi’s passion for developing maps of the more remote areas of the Kingdom, which will be a real boon for anyone interested in exploring this fascinating country (page 50). Of importance to all our readers working in the travel and tourism industries, we carry details of the launch of the next staging of the Saudi Excellence in Tourism Awards (page 19), to be held in March 2012. Online nominations will open shortly; we provide details of what you need to do enter, and hopefully win, in this valued industry awards program. There are some key new categories and other additions to this year’s arrangements, so be sure to read this report carefully if you plan to make your mark on history by winning a 2012 SETA. As usual, we hope you enjoy this edition of Saudi Voyager .

Editor in Chief

Autumn 2011 / Saudi Voyager / 03

Discover! Saudi Arabia

Published by Alef International P.O. Box 301292, Riyadh 11372 Kingdom of Saudi Arabia

CONTENTS

T: +966 1 462 3632 F: +966 1 461 2966 Email: info@alefinternational.com

guide/autumn 2011

Editor-in-Chief Majed A. Al–Sheddi Saudi Commission for Tourism and Antiquities Editorial supervision - SCTA Najla Al-Khalifah T: (+966) 1 880 8910 E: [email protected] Contributors Alex Malouf Jackie Ledger James Nicholson Richard Whitehead Randa Saab Rashed Islam Sharon Dunn Zoya Malik Design Hussain Mohammed Al-Bakri Photography Abdullah Al Sayari Adel Al-Elati Ahmad A. Alwosaibie Alex Malouf Byron A. Bueno Mark Carreon M. Zafar-ul Islam Romel Cuison SCTA Sharon Dunn Shutterstock Waleed Almarhoum Research Jihan Bagader Tanaya Bose Jain Subscriptions Majed Fares E: majed.fares@alefinternational.com Client Servicing Tanaya Bose Jain E: tanayaj@alefinternational.com

_PEOPLE

_INDUSTRY

Investment / 29 Saudi Voyager spoke to Essam Abouda, vice president of operations, Arabian Peninsula and Indian Ocean, about Hilton Worldwide’s investment in Saudi Arabia’s growing tourism market

News / 07 News of the tourism industry of Saudi Arabia

Day in the life / 76 Starting out as a concierge at Riyadh’s Hotel Al Khozama, Mamdouh Al- Arafshah has built an enviable career in the hospitality industry, spanning more than 25 years My favorite place / 63 His work took HE Talmiz Ahmed, Ambassador of the Republic of India to all four corners of the Kingdom. He tells Saudi Voyager of his particular favorites prior to his departure from the Kingdom on completion of his tour of duty

SETA / 17 Arrangements for the second Saudi Excellence in Tourism Awards have been announced SCTA interview / 22 Saudi Voyager talks to Dr. Delayl AlKahtani, a modern-day pioneer working in Riyadh's National Museum Al Khabra heritage town / 26 Al Khabra heritage town hosts traditional building workshop

Consultant Editor Barry Gray T: +971 50 653 8859 E: [email protected]

Mapping the future / 50 A surprise meeting in the rugged terrain of Riyadh’s southern escarpment has led to an appreciation of Abdullah Al Sayari's special skills

Chief Executive Officer Rabih El Amine T: +966 1 462 3632 E: rabiha@alefinternational.com

MICE / 72 Saudi Arabia set to establish itself as an events hub for the marketing and communications industry

© Alef International Saudi Voyager is published on behalf of the Saudi Commission for Tourism & Antiquities

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All rights are reserved and no part of the publication or its contents may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means, electrical, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written approval of the publishers. While every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information reported in Saudi Voyager, neither the publishers nor Saudi Commission for Tourism & Antiquities will accept responsibility for any errors or omissions and rejects any claims arising out of any action which a company or individual may take as a consequence of the content contained herein.

29 Retail price: Saudi Arabia SR10.00 Rest of world US$5.00

News analysis / 14 Premier Inn is the UK and Ireland’s largest and fastest growing hotel chain, and has recently opened in the Gulf. Darroch Crawford, managing director Middle East and Africa talks about their interest in moving into the Kingdom

_ CONTENTS / SAUDI VOYAGER

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_RECREATION

_DESTINATION

_LIFESTYLE

Capital golf/ 52-53 Along with other parts of the world, Saudi Arabia has seen an increase in golfing facilities. Saudi Voyager reviews golfing options in the capital

Al-Ahsa / 32 Al-Ahsa is not on everyone’s to do list although it shouls be, having been nominated as one of the seven wonders of the natural world

Heritage / 43 Evidence of horse domestication in KSA nine millennia ago uncovered

Hotel review / 58 In the age of the Internet and interconnected world it can be challenging for any business to try and stand out from the crowd. The Sofitel Al Khobar makes a good effort to do so

Hejaz Railway / 37 It is still possible to visit the remains of the Hejaz Railway in the Kingdom and experience firsthand the outstanding achievement and colorful history of over a century ago

Restaura nt review / 61 Najd Village provides a sumptuous experience of the Central Region

The big picture / 40 Wadi Mahar, Umluj

Riyadh souqs / 73 Located at the center of historic tr ade routes, Riyadh has a fascinating cross-section of traditional markets

Tarut Island / 46 Saudi Arabia’s Eastern Region has a rich history spanning several thousand years. Alex Malouf visits Tarut Island in his quest to discover more Saudi heritage

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Houbara Bustard / 54 The Houbara Bustard has been under threat of going the way of the now extinct Arabian ostrich. It is hoped extensive efforts of the Saudi government will re-establish these shy desert birds. M. Zafar-ul Islam, manager of the reintroduction program tells Saudi Voyager of progress to date

_DIRECTORY Hotel reviews / 64 With more locally trained staff and increasing focus on quality service,accommodation options across Saudi Arabia are getting better and better. Saudi Voyager highlights some of the favorites Hotel listing / 67

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46 Autumn 2011 / Saudi Voyager / 05

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_ INDUSTRY / NEWS

KING’S LIFETIME CAPTURED FOR NATIONAL DAY This year’s National Day celebrations, which take place during September, were marked by a special display with a week-long exhibition of photographs that chronicle the life and times of the Custodian of the Two Holy Mosques, King Abdullah bin Abdul Aziz. The exhibit set out to illustrate the many different facets of the King’s successful journey through life. They marked his achievements and highlighted the outstanding contributions of the Custodian of the Two Holy Mosques in social,

humanitarian, political and religious arenas. The collection was put together by the order of Prince Sultan bin Salman, president of the SCTA and displayed under the title ‘Life and Achievement ’ for a week from September 23 in Jeddah, Al-Damam, Al-Qasim, Al-Jouf, and other leading locations around the Kingdom. In addition to photographs, the collection also featured documentary films gathered from a number of sources including the National Guard, King Abdul Aziz Library, and the Saudi Press Agency.

JEDDAH GHAIR GENERATES SR3 BILLION After 70 days of entertainment, the Jeddah Ghair – the western city’s summer festival – came to a close in September. Shortly afterwards, municipal reports suggested that the event had generated revenues in excess of SR3 billion for the city’s economy. According to Prince Abdullah bin Saud, chairman of the Jeddah Chamber of Commerce and Industry’s Tourist Committee, over four million domestic and foreign tourists visited the city over the course of the festival. He said: “It has greatly contributed to creating an active tourist culture in various areas in the city including markets, malls and amusement parks.” He added that with more than 50 government and private establishments participating, and over 200 activities featured over the duration, “the festival was proof of the spirit of teamwork needed to organize such activities.”


_ INDUSTRY / NEWS

SOUK OKAZ: CIVILIZATION, HISTORY AND HUMANITY The fifth edition of the annual Souk Okaz festival opened in Taif in late September with its usual high level of fanfare and pomp. Inaugurating the festival of heritage and culture, Prince Khaled Al-Faisal, the Emir of the Makkah region, said that the event provided a fitting display for the people of Saudi Arabia. “The Kingdom is the country of civilization, history and humanity. And Souk Okaz focuses on these values,” commented Prince Khaled proudly. Over eight days, the culture festival hosted a program of art shows, exhibitions and performing arts.

RECORD VISITORS VIEW SAUDI ARTIFACTS Following record attendance in St. Petersburg, Russia, the Saudi Archeological Masterpieces through the Ages traveling exhibition moved on from the third leg of its international tour in September after a four-month residency a t the Hermitage Museum. The display has proved to be extremely popular in Russia, achieving the highest number of viewers so far with 530,000 visitors since it was inaugurated in May by Prince Sultan

bin Salman, president of the SCTA, and Alexander Aydeev, the Russian Minister of Culture. This figure is in addition to the 160,000 visitors who turned out to see the exhibition during its stay at the Louvre in Paris during the first leg of the tour and th e 140,000 visitors during the second leg, at La Caixa Foundation in Barcelona, Spain. The exhibition, which will move to the Pergamon Museum in Berlin in January 2012, showcases 347 rare

archeological artifacts which chronicle the heritage of ancient Arabian civilizations. Before the tour, the objects were formerly held at the National Museum, King Saud University Museum, King Abdul Aziz Dara, and a number of other provincial museums. Last year, the Custodian of the Two Holy Mosques gave the Saudi Archaeological Masterpieces through the Ages exhibition royal assent to tour a number of European and American cities.

EU PUTS ON SHOW OF PARTNERSHIP “The exchange of cultural activities is key to promote dialogue and foster better understanding that helped people of various civilizations shed prejudices and negative stereotypes,” said Luigi Narbone, ambassador of a European Union delegation visiting Saudi Arabia, at the openi ng ceremony of European Days in Saudi Arabia, the first event of its kind to take place in the Kingdom. He jointly opened the two-day event in Riyadh with Dr Abdulaziz Al-Khoja, Saudi Minister of Culture and Information, in late September. Narbone added that the event was aimed at promoting cultural understanding, education, tourism and business between the EU and the Kingdom. “ Europe, known for its range of cultures and lingu istic diversity, has relentlessly strived to share its cultural richness with people of other regions of the world,” explained Narbone. “It is our

08 / Saudi Voyager / Autumn 2011

strong belief that cultural exchanges help communities and countries come closer by forging deeper political, economic and social ties. Europe has for centuries l earnt how to embrace and respect cultural diversity. Our common cultural heritage, which includes Arabic, helped us become a space of peaceful coexistence, beauty and prosperity, and fostered a feeling of European citizenship.” Representatives from the embassies of 20 EU member states participated by setting up stands and distribu ting brochures to visitors. A number of Saudi officials spoke at the opening and a Saudi troupe presented a folk dance. Afterwards, ‘European Tour’, a photo exhibition, and a documentary film entitled ‘Europe as Seen from the Sky’ were unveiled to visitors, which featured a large number of schoolchildren from Saudi-owned private schools and international community schools.

_ INDUSTRY / NEWS

THINK TANK DEBATES URBAN HERITAGE The second gathering of the Steering Committee of the National Center for Urban Heritage took place in September at the Saudi Com mission for Tourism and Antiquities (SCTA) headquarters in Riyadh. The meeting focused on the Kingdom’s heritage as a national issue with important economic objectives. The committee also paved the way for the first National Urban Heritage Forum, which will take place in Jeddah in November. Committee members praised the instructions of Prince Naif bin Abdul Aziz, second Prime Minister and Minister of Interior, to provincial governors to ensure that authorities do not remove heritage buildings without first seeking the advice of the SCTA, thereby allowing the commission to verify a bui lding’s architecture and historical importance. Following the directive, provincial governors are now required to inform the SCTA of any unapproved removal of heritage buildings. Members of the committee considered how the National Center for Urban Heritage would benefit from the SCTA’s large network of projects, programs and stakeholders, as well as the efforts of private companies and individuals to preserve Saudi national heritage. In this context, the SCTA has launched a special program to explore international experience

with urban heritage development and preservation. The committee also discussed the center’s plans for the next three years, which include the establishment of a national archive for urban heritage and adopting a national strategy to rehabilitate and develop urban heritage in a way that will preserve local artifacts. It was emphasized that the development of national urban heritage would be of great benefit to companies and communities and should be seen as a huge economic resource with the potential to generate great wealth and play a significant part in creating a large number of employment opportunities for the local population. Also covered in the meeting was a review of ongoing work and propose d projects for the 2012-13 fiscal year. These include heritage village development programs, city-center improvement programs, the rehabilitation of popular souks and historic buildings, and developments in collaboration with MOMRA. The National Center for Urban Heritage was founded as a national think tank charged with bui lding an institutional system that focuses on urban heritage development by forming provincial partnerships. It is also responsible for raising awareness of the importance of urban heritage among local communities.

SAUDI “MOON BOAT” MAKING SHANGHAI RETURN After almost 4.5 million visitors visited the Saudi Arabia pavilion at last year’s Shanghai Expo, organizers of the 2011 edition are expecting a similar level of interest on its second staging. At the time of going to press, the finishing touches were being put to the “Moon Boat” pavilion which, last year, proved so popular that queues as long as 4,000 meters were seen waiting for a glimpse inside. This year, in a bid to reduce waiting time for visitors, the Shanghai authorities have decided to distribute all tickets through travel agencies.


_ INDUSTRY / NEWS

GARYAH ARTIFACTS RETURNED Efforts made to recover missing Saudi artifacts have paid off following the successful return of more than 500 Saudi archeological objects from Britain. The recovered items were from the Garyah excavation in Tabuk province, and were removed from the site to be taken to Britain in 1968 for research purposes.

The Saudi Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Dr Abdul Aziz Al Rashid, a heritage consultant to the SCTA president, led a delegation to complete the recovery process, which is in line with the commission’s aim to secure the return of all Saudi artifacts to the Kingdom. The SCTA, through the Standing Committee of National Antiquities

Recovery, has made great efforts over recent years to recover antiquities that have been taken out of the country. The SCTA's efforts in this respect have resulted in the recovery of approximately 14,000 objects from outside of the Kingdom, some of which had been missing for more than 50 years.

PRINCE KHALID TO LEAD SUMMIT Prince Khalid Al-Faisal bin Abdul A ziz Al-Saud, governor of the Makkah Province, announced his patronage and attendance at the second Modern Makkah Summit and Awards. The summit is the latest development in a series of largescale, business-driven events in th e province. Under the theme of ‘Modernizing the Holy City and the Greater Province’, the two-day event, scheduled for December 10-11 2011, will explore projects that are shaping th e future of the region.

Key local, regional and international players from the infrastructure, real estate, hospitality, and tourism sectors will be in attendance, all looking to showcase their expertise and drive future expansion plans. In conjunction with the Modern Makkah Summit, the Makkah New Era Awards will recognize industry leaders who have played an active role in the development of the province and its historical transformation. Prince Khalid will officially open the inaugural awards dinner on the first day of the summit.

SAUDI AND TURKEY CEMENT CLOSER RELATIONS In an official two-day visit to Ankara in September, Prince Sultan bin Salman visited a number of projects and programs carried out by Ankara Municipality in the field of tourism and urban heritage. "Ankara is a large and developed city with a long, historic past,” said Prince Sultan. “We can learn much from its rich experience in developing tourism programs and activities to attract a wide range of groups to come to take part in events and visit historical sites; this is all part of an effort to connect Turkish society with its national heritage.” During his visit, the Prince met with Ertu rul Günay, Turkey’s Minister of Culture and Tourism. The meeting included a discussion on a number of issues related to tourism investment between the two countries, and highlighted ways the two


nations could enhance tourism development through the construction of heritage villages and museums, and carrying out tourism training. They also put into effect a memorandum of cooperation between the Kingdom and Turkey in the field of tourism. “Today we are enhancing the cooperation between the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia and Republic of Turkey, especially since tourism in Turkey has a wide appeal and places heavy emphasis on the country’s wide and diverse heritage,” said Prince Sultan bin Salman. The Turkish Minister of Tourism and Culture welcomed the visit of Prince Sultan to Turkey, and emphasized the importance of the enhancement of relations between the two countries in the field of tourism, and of encouraging investment in tourism sector.

_ INDUSTRY / NEWS

BRIEFS HAIL’S GROWTH The province of Hail has registered a remarkable, 122 percent growth through strong investment in its accommodation sector, compared with the corresponding period of 2010. The total number of rooms in the province’s 100 hotels and furnished flats has now reached 2,100; up from 800 rooms just five years ago.

BUSINESS BONANZA A report released recently by Tourism Information and Research Center revealed that the number of domestic trips within the Kingdom for the purpose of business tourism reached 3.9 million last year. This marks a significant increase in trips compared with 2009, when only 2.3 million trips had been booked for business.

BRITAIN SEEKS CLOSER TIES In a move to further co-operate in the field of museums and antiquities, the British Ambassador to Saudi Arabia, Sir Tom Phillips, met with the SCTA to discuss an initiative by the British Institute for Arabian Peninsula Studies. They also discussed the upcoming visit by the Duke of York, Prince Andrew, to the Kingdom.

BOOK LISTS NEW APPROACH SCTA’s director of media production, Dr Habass Al Harbi, has released a new edition of his book, ‘Tourism Marketing In Tourist Facilities’, which offers new methods for tourism marketing in the modern world. The book focuses in particular on the intense competition between countries to gain a larger portion of the market.

TAWASOL UNVEILED A new company intranet has been unveiled for employees of the SCTA. The new site, named Tawasol, highlights the commission’s most important news, staffing information, IT policies, and health and community news. The portal also allows staff to write their own articles for colleagues to read.

STUDENTS VISIT DIG A group of students from the College of Architecture at King Saud University took part in a visit to the Ghat Heritage Village as part of an SCTA training program that sets out to teach students of the importance of urban heritage. The SCTA itself has also recently established a center devoted to urban heritage.

AGENCIES CHECKED A joint team of officials from the SCTA and Ministry of Labor made a series of sweeping inspection visits to tourism and travel agencies in Riyadh in September. This move was to ensure that companies had been adhering to their license conditions and employing the required proportion of Saudi nationals within their organizations.

PRINCE ATTENDS ASTRONAUT CONVENTION A former astronaut himself, Prince Sultan bin Salman, president of the SCTA, visited Moscow during September to attend the fifth conference of the Association of Space Explorers, a body of which he is a foundin g member. The conference covered a number of issues related to space science and technology, and recent studies and research into space discovery – areas which are of ongoing interest to Saudi Arabia. "The Kingdom is making steady progress in space technology as well as in other different knowledge areas," said Prince Sultan in a statement following the conference. The Prince also praised the efforts of the Custodian of the Two Holy Mosques, the Crown Prince and the government of Saudi Arabia for their work in social, economic and scientific areas, including space science and technology. "The Kingdom has spared no efforts in encouraging and promoting the use of satellite technology all over the region, where it has some of the most advanced technology,” he added. Prince Sultan participated in the Discovery-G51’s voyage into space in 1985, and was one of the founders of the Association of Space Explorers in the same year, which now has a memb ership of over 350 astronauts from 35 countries.

WORLD TOURISM CHIEF SINGLES OUT SAUDI ARABIA During an address at the opening ceremony of the second Al Aqaba Economic Conference, the secretary general of the World Tourism Organization lauded Saudi Arabia’s efforts to promote domestic tourism as an example to the rest of the world. Dr Taleb Al-Rifai singled out the Kingdom for its focus on local tourism, saying its efforts “can be considered unique and are an example to be followed.” He also urged Arabic countries to focus on their own domestic tourism industries by establishing partnerships with the private sector with a particular emphasis on enhancing their cultural offerings. Doing so, he said, would

generate a rich source of income while also preserving their national identities. On a global level, Al-Rifai pointed out that tourism is the third-largest and fastest-growing industry in the world, accounting for 5.2 per cent of world GDP with an economic value of around $1.2 trillion. However, he also cautioned that the tourism industry is at a crossroads, especially following the global financial crisis and recent unrest in the Arab world. He signalled that tourism across Arab countries had fall en by 11 per cent since the start of the recession, although, over the last 10 years, international tourism income had almost doubled from $480 billion to $920 billion.


_ INDUSTRY / NEWS

SCTA TO SUPERVISE BOAT SALVAGE The Saudi Commission for Tourism and Antiquities has confirmed it is part of a joint effort to raise an historic, sunken ship dating from the turn of the century at Qunfudah Port on the Red Sea Cost. On successful completion of the operation, the ship is to be put on public display in Qunfudah. Led by SCTA vice-president Ali Al-Ghabban, who has visited the port to assess the measures required for the reclamation, a specialised company has been engaged to perform the operation alongside specially trained SCTA divers. The ship was sunk in an air raid by Italian warplanes during the first world war, which also resulted in the destruction of a number of other ships in the area. The team also intend to reclaim another, vessel located beneath the ship, with the intention to also display it. The project is being supervised by a joint committee comprising representatives of the SCTA, the Border Guards and Ministry of Agriculture.


SCTA COMMITTED TO SAUDIZATION Speaking at an industry meeting in Jordan, Prince Sultan bin Sal man revealed that the SCTA was determined to nationalize the tourism market over the next three years, and once again emphasised the benefit of the industry to the domestic econo my. “Tourism is an extremely important industry for us and it plays a significant role in providing job opportunities and alleviating poverty. The Kingdom is currently passing through a remarkable transitional period and this sector too is witnessing a change. Tourism, which is a major human ac tivity, has today become an industry al l by itself,” he said. Prince Sultan said that among rural communities, the tourism industry had succeeded in generating indirect employment, for example in the making and selling of handicrafts, in addition to direct job creation in historica l, heritage and agricultural sites.

“These activities will ensure a good living for the people who live in the rural areas, who will no longer find they have to migrate to the cities to make a living,” he said. Prince Sultan also explained that the tourism sector in the Kin gdom was witnessing a dramatic change based on partnerships with local communities, saying, “This polic y (of cooperatives) has resulted in large investments for the welfare of the communities.” He added that the SCTA had been focusing its investments in traditional communities, especially those in agricultural and rural areas. “We have been cooperating with a number of public and private establishments to further consolidate this trend. We have taken a giant leap as we continue to build on our work in rural and heritage areas,” he added.

_ INDUSTRY / NEWS

RESIDENTS ON TOUR EXPAT FAMILIES GUESTS OF SCTA FOR RIYADH TOUR "We did not expect Riyadh to be so beautiful and to have such a long history." This was a common theme of comments made by a group of families resident in Riyadh, who were recently the guests of the Saudi Commission of Tourism and Antiquities on a tour of Riyadh, which took in a number of historical monuments and sites around the capital. Some of the group confirmed that during their stay in the Kingdom, often living in expatriate housing compounds, they had had limited exposure to the many historic sites in the capital. The familiarization tour, organized by local company Bon Voyage, with the support of SCTA, headed by bus to the King Abdul Aziz Historical Center, Al-Masmak Fort and the carpet souq, one of the oldest markets in Riyadh and also known as Al-Zal Market locally. The tour combined heritage and culture with mode rnity including a visit to the Al-Faisaliah Tower, a modern icon of the capital. To finish off the tour, the visitors enjoyed a traditional Saudi-style dinner in the Najd area, seated on carpets on the floor and eating by hand. One long-term resident of Riyadh, Mr. Steve Baker, who works with BAE Systems, stated that despite being in Riyadh for many years, the tour had showed him many interesting places he had never visited before. Another, Kim Baker, agreed and appreciated that the tour allowed her the opportunity to see the Al-Masmak historical Palace. “I entered the sitting room of the founder, King Abdul Aziz

and was overawed to be in the same room in which the founder of Saudi Arabia used to sit to make his deliberations,” she said. She expects to make more tours in Riyadh. Stephanie Baker was also impressed with what she saw, especially in the mix of the traditional and modern aspects, such as the ancient places in Riyadh against the Al-Faisaliah Tower. She said she enjoyed the tour very much, e specially Al-Masmak fortress and the King Abdul Aziz Historical Center, because she had not imagined that there were such places in Riyadh. She said the tour was interesting and that she enjoyed the traditional Saudi dining experience. Kaya Evans said: “It was an amazing learning experience at Al-Masmak fortress, where we saw traditional buildings made of mud and stone.” Andrew Badly thought it would be a good idea for companies to organize similar tours for newly arrived employees as part of their induction or as a reward for achieving work goals. It would help them to quickly and effectively link with the local culture and lead to a better understanding of the environment that surrounds them. Maram Hamiduldin, the owner of the tour organizers Bon Voyage, explained that the tour was not only about tourism but also to highlight to the expatriate residents of Riyadh the ongoing evolution and development of the capital. She said: “ Integrated tours with knowledgeable tour guide are an important part of gaining a complete appreciation of the county in which they are living.”


_ INDUSTRY / NEWS ANALYSIS

Making strides into KSA Premier Inn is the UK and Ireland’s largest and fastest growing hotel chain, and has recently opened in the Gulf. Darroch Crawford, managing director Middle East and Africa tells Zoya Malik about their interest in moving into the Kingdom

P

remier Inn has over 600 properties across the UK, Ireland and the UAE with more than 43,000 hotel rooms, and Darroch Crawford is tasked with expanding this network in the Middle East and Africa region. Crawford has his sights firmly set on KSA as the region’s biggest hospitality market in the GCC, and is ready to adapt the brand’s established strategy in Saudi Arabia from owner operator to a management model. Feasibility studies commissioned by the group for KSA suggest immense opportunities for the mid-scale Premier Inn brand, especially along highways, at airports and in city centers, where a consistent, clean product offering value to travelers would ideally suit the Saudi market. The advantage for potential investors in the Kingdom is the simplicity of Premier Inn’s operational model: a property can operate successfully from 80 rooms upwards, especially as roadside properties, which are seen as a specific gap in the Saudi market. This scale of operation means a more economical capital outlay for investors, who may wish to enter the hospitality sector, or who wants to specifically focus on the bourgeoning mid-market market with a tried and tested brand. Investors have approached Crawford through networks and regional trade exhibitions, such as Arabian Hotel Investment Conference and Kingdom Hospitality Expansion Summit, with a view to partnering with Premier Inn. Crawford is in talks with a developer experienced in the hospitality sector who already owns two 5star hotels. The investor is plannin g high quality roadside services for fuel, food and accommodation. The concept suits the Premier Inn positioning, with the brand already partnering on other mix-use sites in other parts of the world.


Another developer has identified large and empty office spaces in Riyadh, Jeddah and Dammam that he wishes to convert into Premier Inn properties, believing the brand will best suit current market needs of business people and families. Crawford explains, “For Saudi Arabia, we have set ourselves a minimum target of 25 hotels by 2018, but we believe the potential can be greater. The brand’s USP is to provide an immaculately clean room, consistently friendly service and always at a low cost. Our room

rates include accommodation for a family of up to four persons at the same, set room rate inclusive of taxes.” The brand has adapted to the needs of the Middle East region, where traveler expectations are high. For example in the UAE, unlike in the UK, the properties provide free Wi-Fi, room service and a pool and spa as standard. Crawford is equally confident that the brand will provide amenities unique to the specific needs of guests in the Kingdom. “We are aware of the cultural requirements in all of our locales and we are looking to employ staff in the Kingdom who are able to offer the best possible service, consistent to our brand promise. Premier Inn hand-picks staff and we will establish a training school in the Kingdom for both on and off-the-job training”. Crawford believes that Premier Inn’s success in the UAE since launching five years ago has cemented investor confidence in the region and set a benchmark with Premier Inn Dubai International Airport property being awarded the owning group’s Best Performer Worldwide award for 2010 / 11 as part of the groups’ Excellence Awards - the first time a hotel outside their home market of the UK has been selected. “We think of ourselves as offering a 4star brand at 2star prices. We are looking for long-term investor-partners who recognize the potential in the ‘value’ sector with Premier Inn frequently returning gross profits of over 60%” confirms Crawford. Travelers can also rest assured that Premier Inn keeps consistency of pricing irrespective of demand. “We don’t change to inappropriate rates due to seasonal fluctuations in demand as many other brands do in the hospitality sector. We build our brand on consistency and fairness”, concludes Crawford.

_ ADVERTISING FEATURE

Museum design moves into the 21st century

The future of our past

T

he recent 1st Private Museum Owners' Forum held in Riyadh highlighted the important role museums have to play in preserving artifacts from the Kingdom’s rich past, as well as the best way to display them for the education and enjoyment of the public. Museums and specialized collections around the world are seeing a great resurgence of public interest, and those in the Middle East are no exception. The highly regarded Guggenheim and Louvre museums have both agreed multimillion dollar projects to establish Middle Eastern extensions, while the Saudi Commission for Tourism and Antiquities (SCTA) in Saudi Arabia has also announced a SR145 million program for the development of four provincial museums in Baha, Tabuk, Hail and Dammam. Plans are also being developed to set up a museum for Islamic and National Heritage in Jeddah and a museum of the Holy Qur'an in Madinah. Museums play a unique and important role in the preservation of the culture and history of communities and in educating future generations. When it comes to designing museum displays, curators have a number of important decisions to make when considering how best to give visitors an educational, but also

enjoyable, even entertaining, experience. A decision has to be made initially on whether the overall style for a museum will be ‘Edutainment’ or education-based. These two distinct options, both with their individual benefits, have a direct influence on the experience of visitors to the museum, and therefore on visitor numbers and the amount of income generated. The same influence is bought about by the relevance, standard and quality of the internal environment of the museum, from the standard of decoration and lighting to the quality of display cases and signage. Shaboury & Associates is an Arab company specializing in the design, marketing and execution of museums. The company has worked on numerous design and re-development projects locally and internationally and is well versed in the role a modern museum plays in the preservation, valorization and documentation of a country's heritage. Today, museums are responsible for the preservation of a community's identity in a rapidly changing world, and the documenting and preserving of culture and heritage in both tangible and intangible forms. Established in 1970, by Dr. Hussein El Shaboury in Alexandria, Egypt, Shaboury & Associates has developed an expertise and specialization in the design, marketing

and construction of museums and museum interiors, In 1997, the company collaborated on the displays for the Nubian museum project in Aswan, Egypt, and has since established its expertise in the field of museography, museum display and exhibition design, delivering more than forty museum and cultural exhibition projects in Egypt, France, Italy, UAE and Qatar. Designing a museum space or a museum exhibition is no longer a simple process of creating a space and putting a collection on display. It is a complex task that aims to create an appropriate environment to attract a wide range of visitors of differing backgrounds, cultures, interests and ages. Psychology, semiotics, aesthetics and communication are some of the key issues a museum designer needs to consider, regardless of the importance and value of a collection. The design and way in which displays are presented play an important role in a visitor's experience and on the museum’s ability to attract and retain the interest of its visitors. “In today’s world, people have a lot of leisure destinations and opportunities to choose from, but not enough leisure time. Hence, museums are not just competing with each other, they are competing with destinations such as theme parks, shopping malls and other leisure venues to capture their share of their client’s leisure time,”


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says Ahmed Shaboury, managing director of Shaboury & Associates JLT. “This change has put increased emphasis on museum architecture, its functionality, display, design and the marketing of the institution in order to create attractive environments that turn a museum visit from being a simple transaction into an enduring experience” Ahmed emphasizes. Karim Shaboury, architect and partner of Shaboury & Associates explains the evolution in the approaches that museums can use as a basis for the style of their exhibitions. “These are the Latin, the Anglo-Saxon and the American styles,” he states. “The Latin style could be seen as the classic museum, which was construed as a place of culture, a temple of beauty and marvel. This style underpinned the evolution of the European civilizations with their huge artistic heritage which started from ancient Greece and Rome and runs through to the Renaissance, at a time when differentiating between art and religion was impossible.” states Karim. The Anglo-Saxon culture treated the museum as an institute, and a place for learning. Objects were mainly collected and gathered for the purpose of knowledge and study. Unlike the Latin ‘Temple-Museum’, the Anglo-Saxon ‘SchoolMuseum’ is more related to science than to history, to knowledge rather than cult. The more modern, American approach can be considered as a second-generation AngloSaxon format: it maintains the same educational purpose but within an entertainment-based environment. Termed ‘edutainment’ it combines science and knowledge within an interactive approach, where a visitor is not simply a receiver but is involved in the experience. In 2007, Shaboury & Associates collaborated with the United Nations Development Program

(UNDP) in the requalification, re-design and construction of the Visitors’ Center for the Wadi el Rayan Protected Area in Fayoum, Egypt. the company is also collaborating with the Getty Institute as part of the team working on the conservation and rehabilitation projects for the tomb of Queen Nefertari at the Valley of the Queens and the tomb of King Tutankhamen at Valley of the Kings in Luxor, Egypt. In 2010, Shaboury & Associates extended its geographical footprint into Europe by designing and executing the Egyptian Museum in Rome and the Egyptian Exhibition at the Palais de l’UNESCO in Paris. It has recently established a regional office in Dubai, UAE, to cater for the demand for museographic and e xhibition design services in the Gulf region, under the brand name MOUSEION. In this most recent move, MOUSEION offers services in three specific areas necessary for the success of museums: conceptualization and design, marketing and execution. Conceptualization and design: This includes master planning, museum architecture, museography, interior design, e xhibition design, lighting, displays, graphic design, and the design of exhibits and display accessories. Marketing services: Every successful business needs a clear vision and mission. MOUSEION helps create these, developing an overall concept for the museum and its exhibits, building branding and identity, and helping with targeting, segmentation and positioning as well as with strategic and tactical marketing plans. It also advises on research and communication issues. Execution: Once the planning is complete, MOUSEION manages the project, oversees the fabrication of exhibits and display accessories, the production of signage and explanatory

graphics, marketing communication execution, and construction and installation. Explaining the need for the new services, Ahmed Shaboury added, “Over the past 14 years, we have built unique expertise and strong credentials as the leading firm in the field of museography in the Middle East in terms of the number of projects executed. Besides being the only specialized firm in our field in the Arab world, what really differentiates us from our European and American competitors is our deep understanding of the Arab culture, civilization and language; our offices in Alexandria, Cairo and Dubai put us in close proximity to our clients, while our marketing services aims to turn museums from being cost-centers into profit-makers in the long term by generating new revenue streams beyond the traditional ticket sales revenue.” In today’s world where people have many leisure time choices, museums need marketing more than ever to increase their visitor numbers, build relationships and generate new revenue streams. In this part of the world, museum marketing is still in its infancy, but as culture and heritage continues to gain momentum in the Middle East and as the cost of running museums increases, it is imperative for museums to adopt professional marketing theories, tools and skills in order to meet their objectives. “Our mission is to enrich, preserve and promote cultural heritage across the region. In this respect, museum marketing is intrinsic to our consultancy services, starting from concept development to the tactical marketing campaigns that promote the museum as a destination” emphasizes Shaboury. For further information: www.shaboury.com

SOME KEY PROJECTS AND CLIENTS Visitor Centre, Wadi Al-Rayan Protected Area, Fayoum, United Nations Development Program Renovation of the Tombs of King Tutankhamen and Queen Nefertari, Valleys of the Kings and Queens in Luxor. The Getty Conservation Institute - The


Egyptian Supreme Council of Antiquities The Egyptian Museum, Academia D'Egitto in Rome, The Egyptian Ministry of Culture The History of Egypt and UNESCO, Palais de l’UNESCO in Paris, The Egyptian Ministry of Culture

President Gamal Abdel-Nasser Museum, Cairo, The Egyptian Ministry of Culture The Coptic Museum, Cairo, The Egyptian Supreme Council of Antiquities The Biodiversity Museum, Sharm El-Sheikh, The

Egyptian Ministry of State for Environmental Affairs The Archaeological Museum, Alexandria, Bibliotheca Alexandrina President Sadat Museum, Alexandria, Bibliotheca Alexandrina,

_ INDUSTRY / AWARDS

Arrangements for the second Saudi Excellence in Tourism Awards have been announced

2012 SETA announced

I

ndustry insiders have confirmed that arrangements for the staging of the second Saudi Excellence in Tourism Awards (SETA) have been agreed between the organizers and the key partner of the event, the Saudi Commission for Tourism and Antiquities. A six-month program of promotional activities and industry initiatives will lead up to a gala awards event to be he ld in Riyadh on March 27, where the winners will be announced and fêted. Since the launch of the inaugural awards and the presentation of trophies to the winners earlier this year, the recipients have had the opportunity to realize the benefits that being a

winner of a SETA brings—the most obvious and immediate being the motivation and excitement felt by the winning organization’s staff. Everyone likes to work for a successful company, and for one that receives recognition—and securing a SETA trophy is immediate recognition for a job well done. Longer-term benefits arise from the ability to use the win in advertising and promotions for the company or individual, which helps generate new business. Telling potential customers that a panel of independent experts judged you to be the best will help build reputation and increase long-term business. The Steak House restaurant chain, which

took the honors in the ‘Best Mid-market Restaurant’ category, enthusiastically confirmed a significant increase in business after winning its award. “We celebrated our award by arranging ceiling danglers and roll-ups in the lobby of the restaurants and put stickers on the menu. We also advised our customers through SMS messages. Yes, we are enjoying double-digit sales growth and we feel the SETA award has contributed to this positive trend,” said Steve Skoien, executive general manager of the managing company. He added that the restaurants have also received positive internet and newspaper press following the awards.


_ INDUSTRY / AWARDS

But it’s not just the companies that benefit by winning a SETA: even for staff, participating in the SETA helps to build skills, generate healthy competition and increase the quality of service deliverables. Involving customers in voting for you can also create fun and build relationships. Indeed, one of the enhancements for this year’s event is to be the addition of an extensive promotional campaign, aimed at raising awareness amongst the general public and generating more votes from them. Every company, restaurant, hotel, shopping mall or other outlet nominated on the website will receive promotional materials for use in their campaign to win a SETA. Mr Abdullah Al-Jehani, vice president of Marketing of SCTA, told Saudi Voyager, “The inaugural event of the Saudi Excellence in Tourism Awards was very well received by all in the travel and tourism industries who participated, and the program achieved many of its key objectives. Now we plan to build further on last year’s event and make the SETA an award that is not only valued but also hotly contested right across the kingdom.” When asked what the key aims of SCTA’s involvement in the awards program was, he explained, “These awards are about excellence - the development of which is a key aim of SCTA within the tourism industries in the Kingdom and in a Saudi Arabian context. We were pleased to see that a few organizations made great efforts to win a SETA trophy during the last event, and we trust we shall see more nominees making similar efforts to impress the judges this year.” Managed by Riyadh-based Alef Media and Publishing, the publishers of Saudi Voyager magazine, and with support from the Arabiclanguage Terhal magazine, the next round of the Saudi Excellence in Tourism Awards is planned to be an even bigger event in all aspects, especially in the pre-event promotion and media coverage. Also, the number of nominations is e xpected to double this time by building on the excitement generated by the inaugural event. Nominations for the SETAs come either from the general public or from individuals or companies nominating themselves. Nominations are made online at www.sauditourismawards. com and it is a very straightforward process. All that is required are the contact details of the person making the nomination, the name of the individual or company being nominated and the reason for the nomination. It will help the


nomination if full details are given as to why the nominee deserves to win a SETA. Nominations can be made in either English or Arabic, as the organizers review all nominations for content and accuracy and translate them into the second language. Only after this checking process by the organizing committee will the nomination be listed on the voting area of the website, at which time the general public can start to vote for it. However, it is not the number of votes that a nomination obtains which determines the winners, although votes are important in determining those nominees that progress on to the shortlist. Once the shortlist of each category is selected, a number of review elements are requested from the shortlisted nominees for scrutiny by the judges. Key elements of the judges’ review will include: A comprehensive and well-prepared nomination pack that provides comprehensive details of the nominees business, its aims, objectives and importantly the achievements during calendar year 2011. Specific information appropriate to each category as detailed in the ‘Criteria’. In some cases, such as restaurants and hotels, there may even be a visit by a representative of the judges to review the operation. To satisfy the judges, a comprehensive and well-prepared presentation pack will be required. This should provide extensive details of successes and improvements in service, copies of company promotional materials and even photographs. As well as the pack’s important role in the judging process, even preparing the pack will be a valuable experience for the staff, who will learn new skills and gain new experiences that will benefit their careers. It is anticipated that the panel of judges will increase in number from the eight of the last event to perhaps as many as 12. However, the combination of Saudi and international judges,

with a mix of practitioners and academics, is expected to be maintained, as it provided a broad base of experience that was considered to enhance the judging process. The chairman of the last event’s panel of judges, Barry Gray, stated that he was happy to see that several nominees in last year’s event had undertaken extensive promotional activity to generate votes by circulating flyers, emails and text messages to their customers, encouraging them to go online and vote for them. “This type of promotional activity involves the customers and general public in the Awards, which is good, and we shall be encouraging this type of activity this year,” said Gray. Explaining that promotional activity was open to all nominees, he stated, “Votes come from happy customers and can be generated by any organization or individual, and the activity adds interest and excitement to day-to-day business in the run-up to the Awards. However, nominees should realize that the number of votes secured does not decide the winners; they merely assist the organizing committee in compiling the shortlist of each category.” “What I hope to see this year is more effort being put into the nomination packs by the shortlisted nominees for the judge’s review - a few were very good, but many did not have enough information or effort put into them, probably because nominees thought it was only the number of votes that mattered. That is why we will provide specific details of certain criteria for supporting information that has to be included in the nomination packs, rather than leaving it open for nominees to put in anything they wish, although a degree of creativity will still be welcomed. We also plan to introduce a more stringent review of shortlisted nominees,” said Gray. “The Saudi Excellence in Tourism Awards is set to become the gold standard in business awards in the Kingdom, and now is the time for companies and individuals to start preparing their information for the categories most appropriate for them.”

Categories

Criteria

2011 Saudi Excellence in Tourism Awards

2011 Saudi Excellence in Tourism Awards

1. ACCOMMODATION

ACCOMMODATION

i) Best Luxury Hotel (5 stars or More) ii) Best 4star Hotel iii) Best 3star Hotel or Motel iv) Best Furnished Accommodation v) Best Specialized Resort

Experience iii) Best Tourism Transportation iv) Best Trip Organizer v) Best Travel Agency

5. TOURISM PROGRAMS

i) Best Tourism Quality 2. RESTAURANTS Assurance Program i) Best Fine Dining Restaurant ii) Best Tourism Promotional ii) Best Traditional Campaign Food Restaurant iii) Best Casual Dining 6. TOURISM PEOPLE Restaurant i) Best Tour Guide ii) Tourism Sales 3. SHOPPING AND Professional of the Year ENTERTAINMENT iii) Tourism Service i) Best Shopping Experience Professional of the Year ii) Best Tourism Festival iii) Best Recreation Center 7. SPECIAL or Amusement Park RECOGNITION iv) Best Tourism Attraction

4. TOURISM ACTIVITIES i) Best Museum Experience ii) Best Saudi Heritage

8. PRESIDENT'S AWARDS Individual Organization

Timetable 2011 Saudi Excellence in Tourism Awards

The schedule that the industry should plan to work to starts in October and will run through to the end of the year: dates decided upon include: The Awards website will open for nominations in October 2011 During October and early November SETA workshops will be held around the country to advise participants on the nomination process The website will close for receiving nominations on 31 December, 2011 (but will remain open for voting until 31 January, 2012 Shortlisted nominees will be provided the judges requirements for nomination packs during the first week of February Receipt of nomination packs closes 28 February, 2012 Judging takes place in Riyadh on 6 March, 2012 Grand gala awards event on 27 March 2012.

BEST LUXURY HOTEL This category is applicable to SCTA certified 5star (and higher) hotels. Nominations should include details of new or improved services, successful special promotions or improved facilities etc. Following nomination, shortlisted organizations will be requested to provide the judges detailed information, with supporting statistics, of special activities, new facilities or improved services, Details of achievements in regard to Saudiazation, improved staff training programs and CSR or environmental programs within the local community will also assist the nomination.. BEST 4STAR HOTEL All SCTA certified 4star certified hotels may apply to this category. The judges will be looking for details of new or improved facilities, innovative services, successful special promotions or enhanced levels of service etc. Nominations should include details of specific activities b eing nominated with details of the improved results achieved. Following nomination, shortlisted organizations will be requested to provide the judges detailed information, with supporting statistics, of special activities, new facilities or improved services, Details of achievements in regard to Saudiazation, improved staff training programs and CSR or environmental programs within the local community will also assist the nomination.

BEST 3STAR HOTEL OR MOTEL This category is applicable to smaller and domestic hotels and motels. Nominations should include details of new or upgraded services or facilities and high levels of service. Nominations should give details of activities or services that make the hotel stand out against other similar hotels.

Shortlisted nominations will be requested to provide detailed information, with statistics, of special promotions, new or improved facilities. Details of achievements regarding Saudiazation, improvements or increased staff training activities as well as activities within the local community or charities will help the nomination.

BEST FURNISHED ACCOMMODATION This category is open to all furnished apartments and villas regardless of categorization. Nominations should include details of special services or new or improved facilities, successful special promotions etc. For judging purposes, shortlisted nominations will be required to provide detailed information with documentary evidence of the business, any improved activities being nominated with full details of improved results. BEST SPECIALIZED RESORT This category is open to any holiday or recreational resort or venue offering specialized vacation, recreation or pastime activities. This could include beach resorts, marinas, horse riding facilities, golf clubs etc. Nominations should include details of the special facilities as well as the services that sets the venue apart from local competitors. Details of new services or improved facilities will also help. Shortlisted nominees will be required to provide the judges specific details of the facilities provided as well as improvements and enhancements made over the period of the Awards. Additional information on achievements regarding Saudiazation, staff training programs or local community work will add value to the nomination.


Criteria

continued…

RESTAURANTS BEST FINE DINING RESTAURANT This category is open to either individual restaurants or those located within luxury hotels. The award will recognize standard of cuisine, superior service levels and overall ambiance. The judges will require shortlisted nominees to provide details of menu and information on any improvement made during 2011 to service, facilities or marketing. Photographs, or documentary evidence with statistics or measurable results will support the nomination. BEST TRADITIONAL FOOD This category is open to any restaurant (whether independent or within a hotel) or for caterers that provide a traditional Saudi Arabian eating experience to a high standard. Shortlisted nominees will be asked to provide details of menu and any special service aspects or special facilities provided. The inclusion of photographs or other documentary evidence with measurable results will support the nomination.

BEST CASUAL DINING RESTAURANT This category is open to franchised or Saudi Arabian originated casual dining restaurants that provide a consistently good standard of product and service. The cuisine served is less important than branding, operational standards and customer experience. Shortlisted nominates will be asked to provide details of menu and facilities, the service provided with any special or unique features. Photographs and other documentary evidence with measurable results will support the nomination.

SHOPPING AND ENTERTAINMENT BEST SHOPPING EXPERIENCE Open to malls and independent retails, this category aims to


recognize efforts that raise the shopping experience beyond just retail purchasing. Nominees should be able to show they have conducted extensive and successful in-store promotions that have attracted customers and enhanced the retail experience and raised the perception of the retailer or mall. The judges will require shortlisted nominees to provide documentary evidence of activities undertaken with details of the improved results. Photographs and or other documentary evidence with measurable results will support the nomination.

BEST TOURISM FESTIVAL This category is open to all Provincial Tourism Organizations to nominate their 2011 festivals. The award will recognize successful staging of the event, new or creative elements within the program and the effective advertising and promotion that resulted in improved attendance. Shortlisted nominees will be asked to provide documentary evidence of the activities at the festival with specific details of the pre-event marketing activity and details of attendance. Photographs, or other documentary evidence with measurable results will support the nomination.

BEST RECREATION CENTER OR AMUSEMENT PARK Open for nominations for any area of recreation or amusement which attracts visitors from around and outside their local area. The size or style of the attraction is less important than its quality, the visitor experience and the number of visitors attracted. Shortlisted nominees will be asked to provide details of the attraction, details of any improvements of services, facilities or equipment during 2011. Documentary evidence with details of any advertising or promotional campaigns will also be helpful, as

will brochures or photographs.

BEST TOURISM ATTRACTION This category may be entered by a commercial organization, Provincial Tourism Organization or other private body providing a tourism attraction which draws visitors from around and outside their local area. The size of the attraction is less important than the overall interest generated and the breadth or depth of the visitor experience and the number of visitor numbers generated. Shortlisted nominees will be asked to provide details of the attraction with number of visitors and details of any advertising and promotional campaigns will also be helpful, as will documentary evidence such as brochures or photographs

TOURISM ACTIVITIES BEST MUSEUM EXPERIENCE This category is open to museums, regardless of their size, subject or whether they are privately- or government-owned. The important elements will be the quality of the visitor experience, the standard of display, the method and style of information provided and any innovations in interactivity between exhibits and visitors. In addition to documentary evidence regarding the museum and its subject, the judges will require shortlisted museums to provide details of visitor numbers, marketing activity and improvements in facilities and services. BEST HERITAGE EXPERIENCE This category may be entered be any individual, government or semi-government organization or private commercial company or individual who offer historic exhibitions or the display of traditional skills, managing heritage sites or other entities such as restaurants or artisan workshops, which provide visitors a traditional Saudi experience and promote

Saudi Arabian culture or heritage. Shortlisted nominations will be asked to provide detailed information on the activity, including visitor numbers, quality of visitor experience and the marketing activity employed to promote the activity.

BEST TOURISM TRANSPORTATION This category is open to any form of transportation serving Saudi Arabia’s tourism industry, including air, sea and on- or off-road or road. The award will recognize professionalism of service, improved services and successful advertising or promotional activities which have highlighted the Kingdom’s tourism industry as well as the service provided. The judges will require documentary evidence of the services and of the advertising undertaken. Documentary evidence will also help the nomination and this can include brochures, advertisements, photographs etc. BEST TRIP ORGANIZER This category is open to any individual or organization managing tour groups within Saudi Arabia. Travel agents may make nominations or guides may nominate themselves and the aim of the award is to recognize professionalism in performance that has resulted in increasing levels of visitors or groups handled by the individual. The judges will expect shortlisted nominees to provide supporting information on the structure of tours organized, details of the number or groups handled during the year or new destinations added during 2011. Nominations can be supported with photographs or client letters.

BEST TRAVEL AGENCY This category is open to any travel agency providing tourism services within the Kingdom, whether based inside our or side of Saudi Arabia. Key in this category will be

_ INDUSTRY / AWARDS

TOURISM PEOPLE BEST TOUR GUIDE This category is open to all SCTA registered tour guides operating in the Kingdom. The judges will request shortlisted nominees to provide details of the number of groups served during 2011, the areas of specializations of the guide and any added value services provided.

on the scale of bookings of visitors to Saudi Arabian destinations, tours or accommodation. Shortlisted nominations will be asked to provide the judges supporting information on their services, their points of differentiation from competitors and documentary evidence to support the nomination.

TOURISM PROGRAMS BEST TOURISM QUALITY ASSURANCE PROGRAM This category is open to any commercial organization, hospitality or catering operator or academic institution that provides or manages an established quality assurance program to, or within, the Kingdom’s tourism sector. Shortlisted nominees will be expected to provide the judges specific details of the program, its aims and benefits and the number of

national and non-national graduates that have graduated the program.

BEST TOURISM PROMOTIONAL CAMPAIGN This category is open to any media, tourism operator, commercial organization or individual that has conceived and undertaken an activity that has helped develop, promote or advertise the Kingdom’s tourism sector. This is a very wide category that can include journalists, publishers, websites, hoteliers, travel and tour companies or any commercial company that has promoted tourism through their business. Shortlisted nominees will be expected to provide the judges specific details of the activity, giving its aims and its results. Documentary evidence of the activity with metrics will support the nomination.

TOURISM SALES PROFESSIONAL OF THE YEAR This is an important and high-profile category aimed at identifying the Kingdom’s No 1 tourism sales professional. Nominations are only open to sales executives, or from their employers, with winners selected on the level of sales of Saudi Arabian–based tours, hotels nights and other local services with the over riding statistic being the level of sales revenue generated against target. The judges will require detailed and confidential information from the individual’s employer in support of shortlisted nominees. This will include confirmation of employment throughout 2011, the individual’s sales achievement against target with a deciding factor being any other specific areas of strength or specialization that the sales executive displays. TOURISM SERVICE PROFESSIONAL OF THE YEAR Providing a quality service is core to any visitor experience. This is an important and high-profile category aimed at identifying the Kingdom’s leading tourism service professional. Members of the public, organizations or the individuals themselves may nominate, with the only criteria being that they are directly involved in providing client services such as meet and greet, reception, table service, In the case of shortlisted nominees, the judges will require information from the individual’s employer to support the

nomination, including confirmation of employment throughout 2011, details of areas of strength and examples of exemplary service. Customer comments or letters of commendation will help the review.

SPECIAL RECOGNITION Often it is the efforts of a few active individuals or organizations that make a significant impact on a situation. This applies as much to the Kingdom’s tourism industry as anywhere else and this category is intended to attract nominations for individuals or companies that have positively influenced the industry through their dedication and commitment. Nominees will be carefully reviewed by the judges who will

PRINCE’S RECOGNITION AWARD This award is left to the discretion of HH Prince Sultan Bin Salman bin Abdul Aziz, president of the Saudi Commission for Tourism and Antiquities. This year, Prince Sultan has decided to separate thje award in to two – one for an individual and one for an organization. Nominations may not be made for this category, although considerations may come from the Winners of the categories above. The recipients will be selected for their overall contribution to the development of travel and tourism in Saudi Arabia and for the long-term benefits likely to arise from their contribution. For more details on making nominations for the Saudi Excellence in Tourism Awards contact tanaya@alefinternational.com


_INDUSTRY / INTERVIEW

PICTURED: DR KAHTANI AND COLLEAGUE SURVEY AN HISTORIC SITE



It's rare to meet a trailblazer these days and the word pioneer recalls a bygone era of a time when it was not unusual to challenge boundaries or accepted practices. Saudi Voyager talks to Dr. Delayl Al-Kahtani, a modern-day pioneer working in Riyadh's National Museum

Pioneer of the Kingdom's past

A

s one of the first five women to graduate with a doctorate in culture and tradition from King Saud University, it may be ironic to call Dr. Al-Kahtani an innovator when her passion is rooted in the past. However, for ten years she has worked as an antiquities specialist at the National Museum. As the first Saudi woman in her field she is passionate about her work and passionate about encouraging others to join her. "We've grown from me being the first to having 24 female staff members over the past decade, all of whom are involve d across the board from public relations to education and administrative work. But we still need more female staff both in the museum and in the sector," states Dr. Al-Kahtani. "I chose this subject because it was new to the Kingdom back then and it was interesting. We were the first women to study antiquities in Saudi, all my classmates went into education, but instead I went to the National Museum." Dr. Al-Kahtani’s achievements at the National Museum include both managing the women’s section as well as establishing the educational or schools department at the museum, which is responsible for facilitating

visits for thousands of students every year. She spends four days a week organizing tours. “We’ve developed the concept of school visits to the museum. Also, we now have female colleagues going out to schools to give lectures and promoting the museum and our traditions. I have given two presentations at King Saud University about the purpose of the museum and what we are aiming to achieve here. We are doing as much as possible to make sure that people know what we are d oing here and why.” What is crystal clear abou t Dr. Al-Kahtani is her commitment and he r drive. She’s a perfectionist and is unapologetic about setting goals for both herself and her staff that others may deem unattainable. Her aim, it would seem, is to educate as many people as she can reach, be it hundreds or thousands, about Saudi’s rich history and heritage. “We still need to raise the profile of the National Museum with Saudi nationals through marketing and events, as I feel that we should always look to continually improve on what we are doing here. What we do see from our educational activities is that once students come here, they go home and convince their families to come and visit afterwards. We’re constantly holding new exhibitions, both


inside the National Museum as well as abroad when possible,” states Dr. Al-Kahtani. Today’s achievements must have seemed a long way off a decade ago. As the first woman working at the National Museum, Dr. Al-Kahtani has been witness to what one could call a gradual but irreversible change in perceptions of women in the workplace in Saudi Arabia. “When we first started working at the museum our responsibilities were limited – we’d be involved in routine work. That’s changed completely and you will see the female staff working in a variety of roles, which include specializations. We hold training workshops for our female staff on a regular basis, we travel with delegations and I have represented Saudi Arabia’s cultural activities at two events, in Bahrain and the UAE. There have been changes for the better for women in our sector.” Much of that progress is due to the support given to Saudi women by the state as well as the government, maintai ns Dr. Al-Kahtani. Her own field in particular has benefited from the personal support of members of the royal family, who are also inspired to educate the country’s youth about their heritage and traditions. “We as women could not have achieved as much as we have done without the support of King Abdullah bin Abdul Aziz Al Saud, who has given us so many opportunities to prove ourselves. Likewise, we have also bee n supported by Princess Adelah bint Abdullah bin Abdul Aziz. She’s been incredibly active in terms of publicizing Saudi heritage and traditional crafts. She’s the chairperson of the advisory committee at the National Museum and she always encourages everyone here to promote our culture.” Dr. Al-Kahtani is also full of praise for the head of the Saudi Commission for Tourism and Antiquities. The positive approach taken to create a tourism industry for Saudi nationals has benefited the country’s antiquities sector, she claims. “Until recently there wasn’t a strong concept of tourism, of what tourism could do for the country. That has changed under Prince Sultan bin Salman bin Abdul Aziz, president of the Saudi Commission for Tourism and Antiquities. We’re now seeing various


ABOVE: DR KAHTANI INSPECTS HERITAGE ARTIFACTS AT HER L ABORATORY

government organizations coming together to promote tourism and investment in this sector. Everyone is working towards the same goal, to build the tourism sector in Saudi Arabia. This has, and will continue to create interest in what we are doing at the National Museum and encourage more young Saudis, both men and women, to enter this field.” Saudi’s reputation in the field of antiquities isn’t just growing at home. A numbe r of conferences in Europe have highlighted the country’s rich heritage. At the Louvre Museum in Paris, an exhibition was opened in July last year entitled "Arabian Routes – the Archeology and History of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia." Supported by the Saudi Commission for

Tourism and Antiquities, the event ran for two and a half months and was visited by more than 160,000 people. As many as 300 archeological pieces were exhibited from Saudi Arabia, revealing the history of the Kingdom from the Stone Age until the modern period. This exhibition and others have transformed how the international world perceives Saudi Arabia. “Our country is known internationally for being the cradle of Islam and as one of the largest oil-producing countrie s,” notes Dr. Al-Kahtani. “However, the exhibitions that we have held in locations such as the Louvre arouse peoples’ curiosity. Once a person discovers our heritage and hi story, they realize that there’s so much more to Saudi Arabia and they

“WE BELIEVE THAT OUR WORK WITH UNIVERSITIES

WILL HELP US MAKE SAUDI WOMEN AWARE THAT THERE IS A CAREER IN THIS SECTOR, A CAREER THAT IS REWARDING IN SO MANY WAYS“


RIGHT: DR KAHTANI IS A PUBLISHED EXPERT IN THE FIELD OF ARCHELOGY

want to know more about us. We’ve come a long way in terms of promoting our history and our heritage but there’s so much more to do. I’m proud to be part of these efforts, to develop an awareness of the K ingdom’s traditions both inside and outside the country.” Closer to home, Dr. Al-Kahtani and her female colleagues refuse to stand still. They’re constantly looking at ways and means of creating new concepts for the National Museum, including exhibits that can be touched and handled by school children as well as guides for those with a visual impairment. The women at the National Museum have created a raft of programs designed around the 3,000 plus pieces housed in its various buildings. “We’ve cooperated with Najd National Schools to draw up educational tri ps that are part of the students’ curricula. Our aim has been to make the exhibits and workshops as hands-on as possible. For example, we have one workshop on the evolution of mosque architecture. Through this program the children can actually build the Prophet’s mosque using clay, palm fronds, and other traditional materials. We are all for encouraging

dialogue and stimulating the students through participation,” says Dr. Al-Kahtani. “Our aim has always been to make a school v isit to the National Museum enjoyable rather than just a day off school,” she adds. “When children are enjoying themselves they absorb more information and will want to learn. Additionally, we’ve wanted to make what we have on display here relevant to thei r classrooms, so that it will have a practi cal benefit for their studies. We’ve been inspired by the enthusiasm of the students, especially the girls who have visited us an d we’ve also learnt a good deal as to how we can improve the National Museum as an educational resource from the students themselves.” In addition to working with schools across Riyadh, Dr. Al-Kahtani has also reached out to universities based in Saudi Arabia’s capital. The National Museum has organized discussion forums with the Department of History at Princess Nurah bint Abdur-Rahman University to promote research between the two bodies as well as providing assistance to women studying related disciplines at an undergraduate level. “The National Museum has a role to play for

everyone in society. We are constantly looking at how we can diversify our reach and provide suitable interaction and experiences, to attract people to visit. Hand in hand with that, we need to attract Saudi female professionals to continue what we have started. We regularly welcome scientific and research delegations from abroad, who have supported us in terms of training our employees. We believe that our work with universities will help us make Saudi women aware that there is a career in this sector, a career that is rewarding in so many ways,” enthuses Dr. Al-Kahtani. Looking ahead, future plans include the establishment of centers of education in museums across Saudi Arabia, the provision of educational material to schools for classroom learning, and more programs designed for Saudi nationals with disabilities. “We want to expand our geographic scope to ensure that all children in the Kingdom know of and get to visit the National Museum as part of their education,” explains Dr. Al-Kahtani. “Learning about their culture should be central to their education.” Having celebrated her first decade at the National Museum, what does Dr. Al-Kahtani want to do next? Today she is a recognized author and authority on Saudi antiquities, traditions, and culture, and she has received numerous awards from the Saudi government for her efforts, both in promoting the Kingdom at home and abroad as well as pioneering the role of women in the field. What does she now want to achieve n ext? “We still have much to do if we want to ensure that Saudi Arabia’s history is recognized for its true worth,” states Dr. Al-Kahtani. “There is so much to see in this country. Look at Mada’in Saleh and Diriyah; they have been recognized as world heritage sites by UNESCO. Recently we have discovered sites in the Kingdom where communities lived 9,000 years ago, domesticating animals and using horses before anywhere else in the world. There are many other places in the Kingdom just as rich in history and culture. We are blessed by our culture and hi story and we should never stop working at highlighting what we have in Saudi Arabia. It ’s our duty to ourselves as well as to future generations to educate and teach about our rich past.”


_ INDUSTRY / HERITAGE WORKSHOP

Traditional skills re-established Al-Khabra heritage town hosts traditional building workshop

T

he Saudi Commission for Tourism and Antiquities (SCTA) branch in Qassim recently organized a workshop entitled “Empowering local communities to rehabilitate and construct using traditional materials”. The workshop, aimed at imparting knowledge about traditional building methods and the renovation of historical buildings, was another move to highlight opportunities related to the country’s urban heritage and the important role it can play in developing the lifestyles and economies of rural communities. As general interest in the heritage of the

ABOVE: HRH PRINCE SULTAN BIN SALMAN BIN ABDUL AZIZ PRESENTS DR ABDULMOHSEN AL HIJJI A SETA JUDGE WITH A MEMENTO OF THE EVENT


_ INDUSTRY / WORKSHOP

country continues to grow the increasing number of heritage sites in the Kingdom attracts visitors and generates tourism opportunities. The renovation and rehabilitation of these old sites, using traditional building methods and locally sourced materials, has the potential to add considerably to the cultural, social and economic development of the areas in which they are located. The practical workshop attracted engineers, contractors and craftsmen interested in developing these traditional skills for use in the renovation of heritage buildings. There were also a number of academics, students and their instructors in attendance, as well as amateur builders interested in the background and theory surrounding the traditional skills and building methods. Government agencies involved in the preservation of the country’s heritage and the maintaining of artisan skills also sent representatives. Organized in association with the General Organization for Technical Education and Vocational Training and a number of other partners from municipalities and contractors working in the field of rehabilitation of historic

buildings, the activities of the workshop included both theoretical and practical sessions which were staged in the Al-Khabara heritage town and at the Technical College in Unaizah . Sadiq Al-Mash’hour, a consultant with SC TA and a specialist in the restoration of heritage buildings, presented the five-day workshop which covered the complete construction of a small building. The first day outlined the importance of preserving archeological and heritage sites, the theory of restoration, and key issues in dealing with construction using stone and mud. The second day involved the practical construction of foundations for a small house, including trenching and fencing, using recycled stone dating back decades. The walls of the property were built on the third day via traditional methods using b rick and mud. On the four th day, the roof was constructed using natural materials collected from local vegetation, and wooden joists were placed across the walls onto which wooden lathes were laid at right angles before being covered by a layer of mud to form the roof. On the fifth and final day, the outer walls of the building were finished with mud rendering.

36 / Saudi Voyager / Summer 2011

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_ PEOPLE / INVESTMENT

Investing in the future Hilton Worldwide aims to open nineteen new properties in Saudi Arabia over the next three years, including 6 for the Jabal Omar development. Saudi Voyager spoke to Essam Abouda, vice president of operations, Arabian Peninsula and Indian Ocean, about Hilton Worldwide’s investment in Saudi Arabia’s growing tourism market

K

SA is proving to be an attractive market for Hilton Worldwide as it provides an opportunity to grow and develop across all five of the Hilton Worldwide brands present in its Middle East and Africa region. Bolstered by the Kingdom’s oil trade and one of the most robust economies in the region, the Kingdom’s move to diversify its economy into industries such as real estate, manufacturing

ABOVE: ESSAM ABOUDA IN CONVERSATION


_PEOPLE / INVESTMENT

ABOVE: JABAL OMAR ARCHITECTS IMPRESSION

and tourism, in addition to a number of large infrastructural projects around the country, is resulting in a hike in the number of business travelers. This is good news for the hospitality options offered by the various upscale and mid-market brands of Hilton Worldwide. Essam Abouda, vice president of operations for the region explains, “As home to two of the holiest sites in Islam – Makkah and Madinah – the Kingdom attacts thousands of pilgrims on Umrah or Hajj visits year round, and when linked to increasing numbers of of business travelers and KSA’s growing leisure tourist segment the combination makes Saudi Arabia a very attractive propositon for the hospitality sector. As the country works toward establishing niche business segments such as cultural, eco and adventure tourism in addition to its strong business and religious tourism segments, we hope to actively support the development of KSA’s tourism industry by providing globally recognized brands that inspire trust in travelers”.

KSA strategy Currently, travel and tourism accounts for three percent of the national GDP of KSA, and its direct contribution is expected to reach SR68 billion by 2021, as reported by the WTTC KSA country report. Hilton Worldwide’s growth in KSA is a good example which illustrates the potential of the local market as well as the geographic scope for development. Over the past two years, the group has established a development plan


which includes 19 properties spanning Riyadh, Makkah, Al Khobar and Al Jubail and including 6 properties in the Jabal Omar development in Makkah, overlooking the Holy Mosque. Abouda continues, “Once our properties in Jabal Omar come on line we will have established all five brands that we offer in the region - Waldorf Astoria Hotels & Resorts, Conrad Hotels & Resorts, Hilton Hotels & Resorts, DoubleTree by Hilton and Hilton Garden Inn: Saudi Arabia will be the only country in the region where we will have achieved this. From our current six

under construction in Riyadh: Hilton Garden Inn, Al Muroj (2012), Hilton Riyadh, King Saud Universit y (2012), Hilton Residence, King Saud University (2012) and Hilton Riyadh Hotel & Residen ce (2013). A further 13 properties are in the pipeline, including the 6 in Makkah’s Jabal Omar project: Conrad Makkah, Hilton Suites Makkah, Hilton Bab Makkah North, Hilton Bab Makkah South, Hilton Makkah Convention Hotel, and DoubleTree by Hilton. It is hoped that all will open in 2014. Hilton Worldwide will also be debuting in

"WE HOPE TO ACTIVELY SUPPORT THE DEVELOPMENT

OF KSA’S TOURISM INDUSTRY BY PROVIDING GLOBALLY RECOGNIZED BRANDS THAT INSPIRE" hotels, the planned development represents 200% growth – significant by any standard. It’s also worth noting that we will be hiring 9,000 employees to work in the new properties”. Hilton Worldwide's existing six properties in Saudi Arabia include two in Makkah (Makkah Hilton and Towers), two in Jeddah (Jeddah Hilton and Qasr Al Sharq, (under the luxury Waldorf Astoria Hotels & Resorts brand) and one each in Madinah (Madinah Hilton) and Riyadh (Hilton Garden In n). Four more properties, due for completion over the next two years, are currently

the Eastern Province with two properties in Al Khobar: Hilton Al Khobar Hotel & Residence (2012), and DoubleTree by Hilton, Al Kh obar (2012). In addition, it will open its first prop erty in Al Jubail – the Hilton Al Jubail, in 2014. There are strategic development agreements in place to establish a number of Hilton Garden Inn properties in locations such as Riyadh, Dammam, Al Jubail, King Abdullah Economic City, Taif, Abha, Tabuk, Hail/Buraydah and Yanbu.

Targeting local investor partners “During the time we have been in the Kingdom,

_ PEOPLE / INVESTMENT

we have fostered strong relationships with investors and it is a mark of Hilton Worldwide’s position that investors frequiently choose us above other operators as a partner when they take their first step into the hospitality industry. We, in turn, benefit from their position in the market and their expert knowledge of local operations.” states Abouda. Hilton Worldwide manages properties on behalf of six local owners in the Kingdom and has collaborated with a number of major development organizations regarding the forthcoming developments. These include, amongst others, Jabal Omar Development Co., General Organisation for Social Insurance (GOSI), King Saud University Endowment and Obeikan Real Estate Investment Company. Abouda believes that investors working with Hilton Worldwide benefit from the group’s 93-years in the industry, while operating over 3,750 hotels across 85 countries has also allowed the group to develop a wealth of experience and extensive networks. For a developing market like Saudi Arabia which attracts visitors from all around the globe, “the breadth of our experience is a definite advantage,” comments Abouda. “We have established standards and have incorporated industry best practices at all our hotels; we have proven training systems in place that ensure Hilton Worldwide team members provide consistently high quality service and represent the best in the industry,”Abouda explains. BELOW: JEDDAH HILTON'S FIVE STAR PROPERTY

K I L A M A Y O Z / N O T L I H : E G A M I

The group has been operating in the Middle East for over 50 years and has a good understanding of the local requirements and preferences. “We have a stake in the local community and actively promote a career in the hospitality industry among young Saudis. In particular, we have established a groundbreaking education partnership with Prince Sultan College for Tourism and Business to develop a hospitality curriculum and qualification specific to Hilton Worldwide, encouraging young Saudis to enter the industry,” affirms Abouda. In additon, Abouda emphasizes, “Quality assurance and service training are two essential staples within our hotels. We have a longstanding, highly successful customer satisfaction program which involves all Hilton hotels worldwide. We have also recently launched a management development programme, tailored to the KSA market, which is designed to cultivate talented local individuals and fast-track them for key hotel management positions”.

Brand differentiation and segmentation Abouda stresses the use of market research in optimizing brand focus and delivery. He says, “Our pricing, position and service orientation depends on the brand as opposed to the region. We believe we have a brand to suit most target segments, so rather than revise the brand proposition, we conduct a thorough study of the local environment and, in consultation with the owners of our properties, we choose the most appropriate brand. Sometimes, in the case of

large-scale developments like Jabal Omar, we get the opportunity to introduce multiple brands to cater to travelers with varying budgets or needs.” With regard to current properties, Makkah Hilton & Towers and Madinah Hilton cater primarily to pilgrims on Hajj or Umrah. Qasr Al Sharq in Jeddah belongs to the Waldorf Astoria Hotels & Resorts and, as such, caters to guests looking for a luxury premium experience, whilst situated in the commercial centre of Jeddah. Next door to Qasr Al Sharq, Jeddah Hilton, an upscale property, attracts a mix of international and local tourists on business or leisure trips. Hilton Garden Inn Riyadh Olaya is a mid-market brand that caters specifically to business travelers to Riyadh. Abouda believes that their time in the market has fine-tuned the art of Hilton Worldwide’s service delivery. Travelers to the company’s properties can be assured of a high standard in the quality of service and facilities offered, and guests also have a range of choice to fit their budget. Abouda stresses, however, what really sets Hilton Worldwide apart from other groups is its team members: all properties are staffed by experienced and well-trained personnel who can assist guests, not just with their in-house needs but also with advice on the local environment and culture. “We aim to make each guest’s stay as comfortable and easy as possible and our team members play an important role in achieving this. Every market has its unique features and requirements and we develop that knowledge and as part of the local community, we respect any specific, local sensitivities. In an emerging market like KSA, travelers tend to look more to the hotel to provide local advice, so it is essential that all our team from the bell-boy through to the general manager – are knowlegeable enough to accurately inform and advise the guests”, qualifies Abouda. The Kingdom’s hospitality industry is developing at a rapid pace and investor interest is high. The Saudi Commission for Tourism and Antiquities (SCTA) is working hard to develop, upgrade and enhance the tourism sector and the infrastructure required, which will provide an important foundation for both the sector and its future growth. There still remain significant opportunities related to the Kingdom’s rich heritage, dramatic landscapes and thousands of kilometers of Gulf and Red Sea coastlines. The potential for domestic and international tourism is indeed boundless and it is evident that Hilton Worldwide is well-positioned to play a key role the future development of the sector.


_DESTINATION / AL-AHSA

N O S I U C L E M O R : E G A M I

Al-Ahsa historical getaway 32 / Saudi Voyager / Autumn 2011

_ _ AL-AHSA DESTINATION DESTINATION/ /AL-AHSA

T

here’s a place in every country that you’ve been told about and yet for whatever reason haven’t managed to visit yet: work’s not allowed it, clash of dates or the journey is too far. It’s probably for this reason that Al-Ahsa is not on everyone’s to do list, despite having been nominated as one of the seven wonders of the natural world. Officially the world’s largest oasis, Al-Ahsa – or Al-Hasa as it is also known – is actually not a city but a region. The city proper that you will have heard of is Hofuf (although signpos ts sometimes mix and match the names) but don’t worry you’re going in the right direction Due to the abundance of fresh water, Al-Ahsa has been inhabited for five mill ennia. The literal meaning of the Arabic word Al-Ahsa conveys its importance in an otherwise arid desert and translates to rocky land or earth that holds rain water. Travelling around Al-Ahsa you will be struck by the sheer number of oases and farms which makes for a pleasant contrast to the never-ending desert of the country’s central region. For visitors travelling from either Riyadh or Dammam, a trip to Al-Ahsa can be made in a single day. From Dammam it is only around 130 kilometers from Dammam’s King Fahad International Airport while the driving time from Riyadh is just over three hours. As always, ensure you fill up on gasoline before you set off to avoid running dry (it happens). You’ll know when you’re getting close to the region mainly due to the change in vegetation. Al-Ahsa could be called the bread basket of Saudi Arabia; with over 10,000 hectares of agricultural land Al-Ahsa is known for its fruit and vegetables. The area is best known for its dates. Al-Ahsa exports 60,000 tons of dates worth over 30 million dollars annually thanks to its three million palm trees. There are plans to establish the world’s first stock market for dates in the city itself with a complex that

would include two auction courtyards, a date shopping center and new hotels. If you enjoy your dates, and being in Al-Ahsa that ’s a prerequisite, ensure that you get to sample some of the famous Khlass variety. Unsurprisingly for a city and a region with such a long and varied history there’s plenty to see and do in Al-Ahsa. The region shares a common history with neighboring Bahrain and several times AlAhsa came under the suzerainty of rules based in Bahrain, most notably the Jabrid tribe who ruled most of Eastern Arabia during the 15th and 16th century. However, the regio n has a strong sense of identity borne out of a number of historical movements which were founded in the region. Al-Ahsa gained notoriety for declaring its independence from the Abbasid caliphate of Baghdad under the reign of the Qarmatians in the 10th century. Much of the town’s architecture dates back to the Ottoman period; the Ottomans controlled the area from 1550 onwards. There are several well-preserved castles and palaces dotted around the city itself. Located in the center of the town, in the district of Kut, Ibrahim Castle pre-dates the Ottoman period. The castle served as the Ottoman’s administrative and military headquarters as well as a prison. A garrison was based here and you may be able to make out the remains of th e city walls which surrounded the city of Hofuf. The castle is open for visitors in the morning and afternoon. If you want to take a glimpse inside then call ahead on 035802639 to check on timings and ask for a guide. While Ibrahim Castle is the best preserved monument to the Ottomans in Al-Ahsa, there are a number of other places to visit to get a sense of the region’s historical importance. Built in 1805, Khozam Castle was built during the first Saudi state and used as a military station by the Ottomans after they retook Al-Ahsa in 1871. The Castle is another good example of traditional architecture and is only a couple of minutes drive from Ibrahim Castle in the city’s Roqaiqa district. While there are a number of forts that you could visit and explore, such as Sahoud, Muhairis, and Waziyah Castles, we instead headed into the heart of the city to explore a number of merchant houses and markets. The most famous souq in Al-Ahsa and a must-see for



visitors is Al Qaisariyyah. Situated in the center of Hofuf, Al Qaisariyyah is one of the oldest markets in Arabia. The architectural style of Al Qaisariyyah is unique to Al-Ahsa and you can find spices, dates and other local products here. Today’s Al Qaisariyyah is a replica of the original structure which was burnt down in April 2004. For those interested in reliving more of the past, Al-Ahsa has two beautiful merchant houses that are well worth a visit. The first is Mullah House, which was where King Abdul Aziz Al Saud stayed af ter he conquered Al-Ahsa in 1913. Mullah House has been preserved for visitors and includes a number of displays for tourists, including a traditional kitchen from the turn of the 20th century as well as a weapons room. Over one hundred years old, the Sa’ad bin Jalawi House encompasses traditional Arabian designs including an open-area courtyard. Both are centrally located and Mullah house is a stone’s throw away from Ibrahim Castle. One of the highlights of any trip to Al-Ahsa is a landmark for the country’s education and development. The city was home to the first school supervised by the Saudi government. Designed and modeled on traditional Islamic architecture, Amiriyah schooled many of the Kingdom’s princes, ministers, and merchants following its opening in 1949.


The building itself has been remarkably well preserved; each school room displays different items such as books, wooden writing tablets and writing materials. The Amiriyah of today would have looked the same as the school that hosted the Kingdom’s elite sixty years ago. Even the ceilings are still covered with palm leaf thatching and date palm trunks. The challenge with reaching Amiriyah is its location. The school is located in a commercial district, and as it isn’t well known by many locals you’ll need a guide to show you the way to get he re. There’s a modern school by the name of Amiriyah which you will doubtless be given directions to if you do find yourself lost in Al-Ahsa. Take my advice to avoid going in circles and use a guide to get to Amiriyah. Another of Al-Ahsa’s treasures and a place which shoul d be much

RIGHT: MOSQUE AT IBRAHIM CASTLE BELOW LEFT: MULLAH HOUSE INTERIOR BELOW: IBRAHIM CASTLE


N O E R R A C K R A M : S E G A M I L L A

TOP LEFT: AL–OGAIR FORTRESS ABOVE RIGHT: A DISPLAY AT THE AL–AHSA MUSEUM LEFT: AMIRIYAH SCHOOL RIGHT: GARA MOUNTAIN CAVES

better known in Islamic history is the Jawatha Mosque. The first mosque which stood at this location 1,400 years ago was one of the first in Islamic history. The original was built by the Bano Abdul Qais people after their conversion to Islam. The new mosque is modeled on the original and is still used by the people of Al-Ahsa for Friday prayers. If the above buildings and historical sites have you eager to know more about the customs and traditions of Al-Ahsa then try one of Al-Ahsa’s two largest museums. The Al-Ahsa Museum is a veritable treasure trove of antiquities and historical documents. There’s also a number of documentary shows and videos about the region’s heritage. The Al-Ahsa Museum is open weekday in the morning and eve ning, and can be reached on 035802639. If you’ve ever wondered but haven’t had the chance to peer inside a traditional Saudi house, then you must visit the Waleed Al Najim Traditional Museum which contains over 10,000 items. You can explore a variety of different rooms and settings, including the bride’s room on her wedding night, the majlis room for the men of the household, and the kitchen. The museum also sells a range of hand made products from the Al-Ahsa region. If you do plan on visiting, please do call the owner ahead of time on 0555921616 for direction as the museum is located in the town of Al Jafer outside of Hofuf. If you have spent enough time inside and you’re yearning to explore the great outdoors the first places to visit must be one of Al-Ahsa’s markets. You can choose from Al-Ahsa’s famous date market, its go ld and brassware markets where you can purchase Saudi coffee pots, or the Bedouin market where hand-made tools and foods are sold mostly by Bedouin women. Most of the markets are in the city center, near to the Al Qaisariyyah. For something more out of the ordinary why not head to the camel market. Al-Ahsa’s camel market is the largest in the Gulf and attracts buyers and sells from Qatar and the UAE. If you don’t fancy going home with a camel why not have a look at the sheep, goats, horses or donkeys. The camel market is outside of the city, on the road to Riyadh. Whichever direction you drive towards Al-Ahsa you will see mountain ranges. The most famous of these is twelve kilometers outside of the town, and is named Gara. While only 150 feet high, the Gara mountains were formed from sedimentary rocks and have often been used a refuge for villagers from the surrounding area during the hot months.


THIS PAGE: AL–GARASH DOUGHA OR POTTERY FACTORY

Gara Mountain is known in the region for its caves which offer welcome shade. Don’t miss out on visiting Nagha, or camel cave. Inside is a small hole named the Freezer thanks to the cold air blowing through the rocks at that specific spot. Another mountain worth a visit is Moshaggar, which was the home of the kings of the Kindah tribe. Between the Gara Mountains and the city is the famous Al–Garash Dougha or Pottery Factory. This workshop has been passed down from father to son for generations and is renowned for its traditional pottery handicrafts. The pottery making goes through several stages. First the mud is gathered from the Harra Springs, then mixed with red and white mud and left to ferment for four days. Then it is spread out to dry and sprinkled with fine white sand. Al-Ahsa is also famed for its natural waters; over 160 wells fill a number of springs across the province. The easiest to get to is Najem, which is west of Mubarraz. Najem is popular with people who suffer from joint pains due to the high levels of sulphur in the water. The facilities at Najem are both modern and ex tensive. Um Sab’a spring, to the north of Mubarraz, is also popular with tourists. Baraber is said to be the best of the pick, due to its sweet, hot waters. Baraber is east of Hofuf near the Taraf palm farms. With so much to do in and aroun d the city where do you start? One good tip is to make the most of your time by having a local show you around. While Al-Ahsa is small enough not to get too lost in if you’re mobile, your best bet is to use a tour guide especially to get to places like Amiriyah and other locations out of town. One of the best tour groups is Al-Ahsa tours, who can arrange a day-long itinerary for you based on what you want to see and do. Call Abdulmohsen on 0508493533. If you’re planning on spending a night in Al-Ahsa and make a weekend of the trip the re are a couple of international hotels to choose from. Both the Al-Ahsa Intercontinental and the Coral Plaza Al-Ahsa are rated five star and are located in the center of the city – you cannot miss the Intercontinental which towers over everything around it. Room rates can range from just over 400 Riyals a night at the Coral to around 750 at the Intercontinental. Even if you’re not planning on staying the night then at least pop in and grab a map of the area as well as a tour guide printed by the Saudi Commission for Tourism and Antiquities. So whatever you may be looking for, be it histor y, nature or shopping, Al-Ahsa has an abundance of things to do and see. While you can visit the place in one day, to do Al-Ahsa and the wider region justice why not come down for a weekend (or longer) and enjoy everything the city and the countryside have to offer.


N O E R R A C K R A M : S E G A M I L L A

_DESTINATION / HEJAZ RAILWAY

It is still possible to visit the remains of the Hejaz Railway in the Kingdom and experience firsthand the outstanding achievement and colorful history of over a century ago. James Nicholson tells Saudi Voyager about the background to the project and how to get there

An extraordinary railway

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n 1900 the British consul in Syria, W. Richa rds, wrote to his ambassador in Constantinople about a scheme to build a new railway for pilgrims between Damascus and Makkah. Richards excused himself for not having previously informed him of the project, explaining that “the venture seemed to me and others so widely improbable, not to say fantastic that I refraine d from reporting on it to your Excellency”. Eight years later, in defiance of all the obstacles that stood in the way of a construction project through some of the most inhospitable terrain on earth, the inauguration ceremony for the new line was held amidst great celebration in Madinah. For nearly a century the Hejaz Railway has been known in the west for Lawrence of Arabia’s celebrated desert campaign, in which he fought alongside the bedouin in the First World War. Yet perhaps the reputation that it truly deserves is for the epic story of its construction, a monumental feat of engineering, demanding enormous

breadth of vision, skill and de termination. Today the remains of the original 1,300 kilometers of track and rail embankment, some of which is available to visitors in the Kingdom, stand as testimony to the success of the grand project, conceived in the dying days of the Ottoman Empire at the end of the nineteenth century. A unique characteristic of the railway was the way in which it was financed. In 1900 Abdulhamid II, the Ottoman Sultan, called upon the Muslims of the world to support the project with donations. Six large volumes in the Prime Minister’s Archive in Istanbul attest to the success of the campaign, with more than 20,000 names recorded as having subscribed to the fund. Contributions could not meet the full cost of the project and a range of special taxes had to be levied to make up the sho rtfall. However, the fact that there was no western investment enabled the ownership and the control of the railway to remain wholly in Ottoman hands. The donations campaign also allowed ordinary Muslims from all parts of the world to feel that they were participating in a great religious enterprise, facilitating the movement of pilgrims to the holy city of Makkah.

BELOW: S.L.M. (SWISS LOCOMOTIVE & MACHINE WORKS) 2-8-0 STANDING BY THE LINE THREE KILOMETRES SOUTH OF WAYBAN STATION


_DESTINATION / HEJAZ RAILWAY

RIGHT: PIECES OF WARDAMAGED ROLLING STOCK CAN STILL BE SEEN ALONG THE REMAINS OF THE OLD LINE BELOW: GERMAN-MADE HARTMANN 2-8-0 AT BUWAIR STATION, 90 KILOMETRES NORTH OF MADINAH

Construction Before construction could begin, an Ottoman engineer, Mokhtar Bey, was sent on the overland pilgrimage to survey the route and produce plans and a detailed map. It quickly became clear that major advantages could be gained by following the traditional Hajj road. As camels have difficulty in traversing mountains, the pilgrims from Syria had been forced to find the flattest possible route, making it also the perfect terrain for a railway. Construction began at Muzeirib in southern Syria and 6,000 military conscripts were drafted in to carry out the basic labouring work. The first year of the project was beset by problems. Supply routes had not been properly established, an outbreak of cholera struck the workers’ camp and ill treatment of the conscripts led to a mutiny. Matters only improved when a dynamic Ger man engineer, Heinrich Meissner, was appointed to oversee the project. Under his direction, conditions for the workers improved and 600 skilled foreign artisans were brought

VOYAGER TIP For visitors wishing to go to the railway stations at Madinah and Medain Saleh, permission must be obtained from the Department of Antiquities located at the National Museum in Riyadh. Only Muslims can visit the station in Madinah, as it lies within the boundaries of the holy city. The easiest way to obtain a permit for the Hejaz Railway station at Madain Saleh (as part of the wider Nabataean antiquities area) is through one of the hotels in Al Ula. Arrangements for this can be


done when making a booking, but ensure that at least a week’s notice is provided. Two suitable hotels in Al Ula are the Madain Saleh Hotel and the Arac Hotel. Al Ula is 22km from the antiquities site and both hotels can provide tour guides. Off-roaders wishing to explore the length of the railway in Saudi Arabia, can carry out the expedition in two stages – the southern section from Madinah to Al Ula, and the northern section from Al Ula to Tabuk. There is now a paved track on the northern section, which runs alongside the remains of the old railway line.

in to undertake some of the more complex areas of construction. With none of the modern facilities available today to desert workers, the living and working conditions of the workforce were extremely harsh. They lived in small, tented camps that were constantly moved forward to keep up with the progress of the work. Far from home and with no recreational facilities, they suffered from all the hardships of the land the extremes of temperature, sandstorms, an unreliable water supply and inadequate diet. Their food consisted of bread, rice and biscuits, and the lack of fresh fruit and vegetables led to a high incidence of scurvy. Even more serious was the threat of cholera, the greatly feared killer disease of the age. Medical facilities were virtually non-existent, with any sick worker simply being sent back up the line on an open wagon. The construction work was divided into three areas. The earthworks involved the making of the embankment and any rock cutting or leveling of the ground. The masonry work included the construction of bridges, tunnels, stations, repair sheds and water towers. Finally, the building of the actual line consisted in the preparation of the track bed, and the laying of the rails and sleepers. As well as ex treme physical hardships, the railway workers had to contend with many difficulties of a technical nature. Perhaps the greatest of these was the scarcity of water. While there were some natural resources along the route of the railway, these were not sufficient to meet the huge requirements of the construction project. A number of new metal cisterns therefore had to be installed at stations. Water towers were also built alongside many of the stations to store and distribute water and another common feature o n the railway, which can still be seen today, was the windmill pump. It is ironic that while water was ex tremely scarce for most of the year, one of the main problems from an engineering point of view was flooding. During periods of heavy rain, water quickly drained off the steep side s of the wadis and viol ent rock-strewn torrents would surge across ground that had been dry for years. Another difficulty faced by the construction teams was drift sand, which was exacerbated by the scarcity of trees and bushes to act as a natural foil.

Access to the southern section can be made by following the Tabuk road (Route 15) out of Madinah. Take one of the turnings left onto Route 8040. This road follows the railway track at various points and also passes some stations. Continue on Route 8040 as far as waypoint: 25° 11.2788’ 38° 49.2300’. Leave the tarmac road here and follow the tracks to the right to Abu Na’am Station (approx 5 kms). The rail embankment runs along the east side of valley. Abu Na’am Station is at waypoint: 25° 13.6002’ 38° 49.3998’. From Abu Na’am Station continue northwards, following the remains of

the embankment of the old railway track, which provides an excellent guide all the way to Al Ula. If at any point you lose the sight of the railway embankment, simply retrace your steps until you pick up the track again. The off-road section is about 270km long and can be enjoyed fully by taking at least one night’s camp on the way. To exit the off-road section, continue until Zumurrud Station at waypoint: 26° 10.4874’ 38° 25.1868’. A track just north of this station leads back onto the tarmac road (Route 375). Al Ula is about 65km to the north.

The Line Advances By 1906 the line had reached Tabuk and the following year Al Ula. At Medain Saleh, where a go od supply of water was available, a major depot was constructed. Situated close to the old pilgrimage qala'a (fort), it comprised 16 buildings including a large engine shed, lodgings, barracks, repair workshops and a double water tower. The station was restored in the 1980s as part of the Nabataean antiquities site, and visitors today can see an original German-built Jung 2-6-0 locomotive in the engine shed. The final section between Al Ula and Madinah was completed in a single year. By this time the conscripts were skilled in their work, and as well as 2,000 Ottoman reserves were drafted in from Baghdad and 1,800 men from the garrison in Madinah started construction from the southern end. The whole project had taken just eight years to complete. Although an intended extension to Makkah was never built, the inauguration ceremony at Madinah on 1 September 1908 celebrated an accomplishment of monumental proportions, confounding the skeptics who had written off the building of the railway as “a widely improbable and fantastic” schem e.

First World War The Hejaz Railway was only to run for six uninterrupted years before war engulfed the region. During this period the numbers of pilgrims making their way to Makkah from Damascus increased dramatically. In 1909 quarantine facilities for the railway were established at Tabuk. Capable of processing up to 4,000 pilgrims at a time, the center was financed by a special tax on tickets. Although conditions on the trains were far from comfortable, the railway represented a vast improvement on the old 40-day overland journey. During the First World War, Sherif Hussein and the tribes of the Hejaz rose up against the Ottomans. Supported by some British, French and Arab regular troops, they carried out raids against the railway, the stations and the telegraph line. T.E. Lawrence was to become the most famous of the officers fighting in Arabia, but there were several others engaged in similar operations. The campaign against the railway was a strategic success with as many as 25,000 Ottoman troops having to be posted to its defence - men who would otherwise have been sent to the mai n battlefront. The Turks were pushed back through Palestine, Jordan and Syria, and in October 1918 with the surrender of their armies to the Allied forces, the railway passed out of Ottoman hands. D E D I V O R P : S E G A M I L L A

COORDINATES There are two guidebooks available for those planning a visit to the Hejaz Railway in Saudi Arabia:

TOP LEFT: A BRIDGE SPANNING THE GREAT WADI HAMDH. IN WINTER, FLASH FLOODS COULD EASILY SWEEP AWAY LONG SECTIONS OF THE TRACK BELOW: THE DESERTED HALTS AND STATIONS STILL BEA R SILENT WITNESS TO ONE OF THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY RAILWAYS THE WORLD HAS EVER SEEN

through services restored to Madinah. In the winter of 1925 torrential rain caused extensive damage to the track and rail Desert Treks from Jeddah embankment and the southern section finally became permanently impassable. by Patricia Barbo r, published by Stacey The railway still operates as a passenger International, 1996. service between Amman and Damascus, while in the south of Jordan it is used to Off-Road in the Hejaz transport phosphates via a new railway that connects the Hejaz line with Aqaba. by Patrick Pierard and Patrick Legros, published In Saudi Arabia the stations of Medain Saleh and Madinah have been carefully by Motivate, 1998. restored, using original building materials to preserve their authenticity. The spectacular desert mountain scenery, together with the occasional derelict locomotive or wagon, provides an unbeatable destination for tourists and intrepid offroaders. Standing very much as th ey were abandoned by the Turks at the end of the war, the deserted halts and stations still bear silent witness to a fascinating piece of Middle Eastern history and one of the shortest lived and most extraordinary railways the world has seen.

The Railway Today After the war the railway was split into three separate sectors: Syria, Transjordan and the Hejaz (later to become part of Saudi Arabia). By 1921 the track was repaired and

James Nicholson is the author of ‘The Hejaz Railway’ (published 2005, by Stacey International) and was a consultant for the BBC World Service’s four-part ‘Heritage’ series on the railway in 2006.


_ DESTINATIONS / THE BIG PICTURE

WADI MAHAR, UMLUJ I T A L E L A L E D A : E G A M I


The coastal areas of the governate of Umluj, located 35Km south of Yanbu are unique in their diverse mix of terrain which includes beaches, sand dunes and mountains. Offshore there are more than 100 islands, making it an ideal spot for scuba diving on a diverse range of coral reefs. Al Hasi Tourist Village is a good starting point and is well-known for its beautiful, white sand beach and rocky shoreline.


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_ _ LIFESTYLE LIFESTYLE/ HERITAGE

Evidence of horse domestication in KSA nine millennia ago uncovered

Roots of purebred Arabian horses

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major archeological discovery in a remote area of central Saudi Arabia, between Tathleet and Wadi Al Dawaser, has unearthed significant new evidence concerning the knowledge of human achievement in the region. The find, about 40km from the town of Gayirah in the province of Tathleet, was originally made by a Saudi national, who discovered archaeological items scattered on the ground while another Saudi reported tem to the Riyadh Governorate, who in turn referred the findings to the Saudi Commission for Tourism and Antiquities. They contacted the collector, who handed over the archaeo logical items and guided the officials to the site. In March 2010, SCTA along with invited expe rts from King Saud University and the UK’s Oxford University, began exploration of the site, which is located at a junction between the Najd Plateau and the edge of the eastern mountains. The area of the site comprises small hills with a


_LIFESTYLE / HERITAGE

ABOVE: CUSTODIAN OF THE TWO HOLY MOSQUES, KING ABDULLAH BIN ABDUL AZIZ BEING PRESENTED ARTIFACTS DISCOVERED AT AL-MAGAR CIVILIZATION

number of valleys between them, one of which is quite major and once had a river running westward that carried water to the west of Al-Magar, creating fertile land along both banks. Man lived in this area before the last desertification, when the drastic climatic changes resulted in hot and dry conditions that led to the development of deserts. The artifacts discovered show that the inhabitants practised agriculture and animal husbandry. On the surface, a broad range of objects was found scattered over a wide area, including arrowheads and precisely-made stone scrapers similar to those used during the Neolithic period. The main site is surrounded by other smaller sites, extending over a wide area, where similar objects were found, some of which were again connected with agricultural activities. Not far from the site is the historical trading route linking south-western Arabia with the central region, leaving the lifestyle of the early inhabitants of the area open to the imagination. It later became a main trade route between Najran and Al-Fao. The site has been named Al-Magar Civilization in recognition of both the community that settled there and its location. Several stone statues and carvings, conceivably of domesticated animals, were found that could perhaps have been part of the daily lives of the inhabitants. These included sheep, goats, salukis, ostriches, falcons, fish and horses. Large statues of horses, together with Neolithic artifacts and tools, make this an important archaeological discovery within the

international arena, especially as previous studies had indicated that the domestication of animals was thought to have happened for the first time some 5,500 years ago in Central Asia (Kazakhstan). The Al-Magar Civilization site demonstrates that horses were domesticated in Saudi Arabia long before that, while nearby there are other sites that appear to be even older than Al-Magar, dating back to the mid-Neolithic period. The discovery of the horse statue, comprising neck and chest, is nearly 100 centimeters tall, which could make it the largest equine sculpture ever found from this period. The features of the animal are similar to those of the original Arabian horses, which are characterized by a long neck and a unique head shape. However, what makes the discovery particularly interesting is the clear evidence of a bridle, confirming that the inhabitants of this early settlement domesticated horses in this early period. To ascertain and confirm the age of the artifacts, four samples of burnt organic material from the site were sent to a laboratory in the US, specialized in C-14 dating. The results revealed that the items date back 9,000 years. All statues were made of the similar type of stone found at the site, and it seems that the statues had been set in a building at the center of the site on the southern bank of the river, before the mouth of the waterfall. It is hypothesized that this building may have played a major role in the social life of the community living there. Indeed, caves near the building had been

MORE THAN EIGHTY ARTIFACTS WERE COLLECTED, CLEARLY INDICATING THE EXISTENCE OF A DEVELOPED CIVILIZATION DURING THE NEOLITHIC PERIOD OF SOME 9,000 YEARS AGO


_LIFESTYLE / HERITAGE

used as graves, with the remains of buried skeletons as well as other graves covered with mud and hay being present. Burial methods including mummification were traced to the skeletons: a technique that is considered advanced. In addition to stone tools, such as arrow and spearheads and scrapers for leather processing, other objects were also found of a domestic or agricultural nature. These included stone grain-grinders and pestles for pounding grains, gravitation stones used in weaving looms, a stone reel for spinning and weaving, and soapstone pots decorated with BELOW: THE AL-MAGAR SITE WAS LOCATED geometric motifs and stone. This WITHIN A FERTILE REGION GIVING RISE TO A RICH all reflects a developed knowledge AGRICULTURE-BASED COMMUNITY and advanced skills in handicrafts.

In addition to the above-mentioned artifacts, a stone dagger was found at the site, bearing similar features and shape to the Arabian dagger currently used in the Arabian Peninsula. This artifact is an important cultural component, as the dagger is one of the most important cultural and traditional elements among Arabs, and according to this evidence, dates back several thousand years, surviving to the present day. Undoubtedly the presence of stone da ggers at this site from more than 9,000 years ag o adds a new dimension to the history of the Arabian Peninsula. Dr. Michael Petraglia of the UK’s Oxford University stated, “The Al-Magar site is a significant and impressive archaeological site, important to the prehistory of Arabia, as well as to global history. It can reveal information about the relationship between humans and climate change, how populations became se dentary, how they interacted with natural resources on their landscape, and how they set into motion the domestication of plants and animals, including horses.” He goes on to say, “The Al-Magar site is a large prehistoric settlement that clearly has different activity areas, including potential house structures, burial sites and workshop areas.” One significant stone piece found at the site bears small cut lines along the edges. The parallel lines are set in groups, perhaps for accounting, calculating numbers or for timing purposes. While it seems that the piece played an important role nine millenia ago, its precise use is still to be ascertained. ABOVE: STATUES AND TOOLS Rock drawings were also found in an area DISCOVERED IDENTIFY A WELLDEVELOPED COMMUNITY adjacent to the Al-Magar site. The petroglyphs were created by deep chipping and engraving on the darkly patinated rock surface. Images of ibex, ostrich and other animals, as well as human figures, including a warrior riding a horse, are carefully depicted. One shows the hunting of an ibex with five hounds surrounding the ibex. Other rock drawings found among the remains of the large central building at the site include drawings of horses and human figures. More than eighty artifacts were collected from the surface of the Al-Magar site, clearly indicating the existence of a developed civilization during the Neolithic period of some 9,000 years ago. This particular civilization could be considered a revolution in human knowledge, skills and handicrafts. Considering all the information known, it can be concluded that this particular community was not confined just to this site, but that it may have moved around the Arabian Peninsula. This may be confirmed by future fieldwork and comparative studies of the artifacts uncovered, and from other findings from other sites, both inside and outside the Arabian Peninsula. A team of experts has been put together comprising local and international researchers, who will carry out further research and studies with the aim of understanding the secrets of this civilization. As Prof. Ali Ibrahim Al Ghabban, vice president of SCTA’s Antiquities Department stated, “The Al-Magar Civilization site embodies four significant elements of Arabian culture, of which Arabs can be rightly proud. These include horsemanship and horse breeding, hunting with falcons, desert hounds and the origins of the Arabian dagger as part of the Arabian dress. These impressive discoveries reflect the importance of this site and of the civilization that lived there. It is also the earliest known example of the domestication of the horse, as early as the Neolithic period.


_DESTINATION / TAROT ISLAND

O N E U B . A N O R Y B : E G A M I

Laid back and relaxed While Saudi Arabia’s Eastern Region has become known over recent years as the birthplace of the country’s oil and gas industry, the area also has a rich history spanning several thousand years. Tarut Island is a prime example, learned Alex Malouf when he visited in his quest to discover more Saudi heritage 46 / Saudi Voyager / Autumn 2011

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ith convenient land and sea connections for visiting tradesmen, the east coast has a colorful and cosmopolitan heritage, and Tarut Island offers visitors great insight into how life was before the oil boom came to Saudi Arabia. Situated east of Qatif, around 40kms north of Dammam, Tarut Island lays claim to a piece of Saudi history, being part of the ancient Dilmun civilization. Dilmun was a trade partner of ancient Mesopotamia, growing rich by supplying copper to Babylon. As a result, Tarut has been inhabited for several thousand years with indications of an even longer history dating back as far as 5,000BC. I’ve been told by locals that the island is named after the Babylonian goddess of love and war, Ashtaroot. However, ‘tarout’ also means beauty in Semitic and I think I prefer this explanation. Research suggests that the island’s original Canaanite and Phoenician inhabitants worshipped the beauty of the place. Since then, the island has understandably gone through its fair share of changes, although, according to my guide on a recent visit, there are still traces of Dilmun burial mounds scattered across the island. The mounds can be found in as many as 15 locations, each housing a chamber in which bodies were buried along with select

_DESTINATION / TAROT TARUT ISLAND

possessions, such as pottery, ivory decorations and copper and stone jars, which it was thought would be useful in the afterlife. Tarut has proved to be a veritable treasure trove for archeological finds over the years, and history buffs will relish the chance to visit the sites on the island where discoveries have been made. Some of the most famous of the island’s relics, such as the Tarut statue, have been uncovered during organized digs; other items have been stumbled upon by chance, with numerous stories of accidental discoveries. One such tale describes a group of automobile repair shop owners who, when renovating their workshop, found tombs dating back to 2000BC. Another recalls a farmer who discovered precious stones and jars when he was working on his lan d. further, in 1959, a janitor discovered rocks engraved with the ancient Sheba language while cleaning some waste land alongside a busy stree t, while in the 1970s, burial mounds that dated back to the middle of the third millennium were uncovered in a plam tree grove. These mounds contained a considerable number of Mesopotamian ceramic vessels and metal objects. The most famous discovery made on the island must be the Statue of Tarut. Carved from a single piece of limestone, the statue is almost a meter tall and depicts a man standing in a pose of prayer and reverence. Its similarity to statue s found in Babylon and other Mesopotamian cities suggests that it does not originate from Tarut itself, but rather was brought here. This u nique piece of Saudi history is now on display at the National Museum in Riyadh. Offering an ideal location for a port in the heart of the Arabian Gulf,

Tarut attracted the attention of the Portuguese when they colonized the area over 500 years ago, also leaving indications of their presence. The island is the second largest in the Gulf, occupying 70 square kilome ters. Naturally sheltered due to its situation between Qatif, Dammam and Ras Tanura, this bay either became a base for the Portuguese, who established a presence here, or a buttress against European expansion further north into the Arabian Gulf, depending on whom you speak to. In the center of the island is the old town. Here you’ll find traditional houses built from a stone and mud mixture, named juss in the local dialect. If you take the time to walk around the houses and the narrow streets, which were built before the age of the automobile, you’ll get a glimpse into how life used to be in Tarut. The houses surround what is the most imposing structure on the island: the Portuguese Fort. It was built in the early sixteenth century and, despite its age, still represents the largest building on the island. Currently, visitors are only able to admire the building from the exterior as the structure is undergoing repair works as part of a heritage renovation project, but if you were to peek inside you’d see a typi cal Arabic-style courtyard with a well at its center and roo ms leading off. The fort is


impressive, but to see any artif acts related to it you will need to visit the Dammam National Museum or the Riyadh National Museum where they are on display, including one of the fort’s cannons dating back to its origins. The fort towers above the heart of the old town, today known as Al-Dera, and j ust below it is Ain Tarut which in the past, was the main source of water on the island. Only a stone’s throw away from A in Tarut there was once a traditional bath house named Hamam Tarut which unfortunately no longer remains. Instead, you will find a number of charming restaurants where locals while away the hours playing cards and sipping tea. The best place to relax and sample some of Tarut’s fabulous, fresh fish is the buffet restaurant just below the fort. The place offers simple, tasty food which will set you back no more than a couple of dollars while also providing a great people-watching spot, allowing you to sit back and imagine the myriad ori gins of Tarut’s inhabitants, with obvious descendants from all corners of the globe contributing to the multi-cultural mix of today’s residents. Apparently the center of the town originally had a significant landmark in the form of a donkey bath. Situated several hundred meters from the fort, visitors would wash and refresh their weary

donkeys at a special equine bath before taking to the town on foot. Unfortunately, the attraction was demolished many year’s ago, before its historic relevance was appreciated. Older locals will be able to direct you to the spot where man’s best friend (before the automobile) would rest after a good scrubbing down. Moving away from the island’s center, another place which deserves a visit is the fish mar ket. Situated only a kilometer away from the for t itself, the market comes to life when auctions begin around midmorning. All types of local specialties freshly caught in the Arabian Gulf are sold, from the ubiquitous hammour to safI, chanad and sobaity. As one of the oldest ports in the Arabian Gulf, Tarut has long had an affinity with fishing. Most of the island’s 80,000 residents are employed either directly or indirectly by the fishing industry. As you head towards the shore, there are many fishing bo ats parked along the side of the road and a few signs of an historic boat-building industry for old traditional dhows. Tarut’s fishing community resides in the villages of Sanabis and Dareen, where there have been seafaring communities for nearly 200 years, but you’ll have to be up early if you plan on watching them take to the seas as they generally leave before dawn. It is easy to imagine the escapades of early villagers using these coastal villages for clandestine trips between Tarut and other Gulf sea ports. The idea of pirate adventures may have proved more appealing to many rather than putting to sea with a line and bait.

BUILT IN THE EARLY SIXTEENTH CENTURY

AND, DESPITE ITS AGE, STILL REPRESENTS THE LARGEST BUILDING ON THE ISLAND


_DESTINATION / TAROT ISLAND

O N E U B . A N O R Y B : S E G A M I L L A

After Sanabis, Dareen is the village most associated with seafaring and trading. According to villager’s, Dareen’s port dates back over 2,000 years and was a trading post for goods shipped on the silk and spices route between Arabia, India, China, and East Africa. it is reminiscent of other old souks in the region, where you could once find musk, perfumes, spices, silk and precious stones from India, China and Indonesia and ivory from Africa. A particular item prized by merchants was the pearl. Before the discovery of oil much of the wealth of the Arabian Gulf was generated by the region’s pearling trade. While the pearling industry was hard hit following the introduction of synthetic pearls in the early twentieth century, you can still find evidence of the trade in and around Dareen. One of the largest buildings of its time, Sheikh Mohammed Abdulwahab’s castle was a meeting place and pe arl trading hub. Built in 1885 by the famed pearl trader, there are still traces of the castle which a guide can show you. While it’s not surprising that Tarut has one of the largest fishing communities on the Gulf coast, what is striking is the number of farms also found on the interior of the island and the diversity of the fruits and vegetables grown. The area of Al-Rabea is famous for its farms and its produce, especially tomatoes, limes, dates, figs and papayas. If you’re looking for fresh, local produce for a picnic you can find fine examples on the road side stalls around Al Rabea. For souvenirs and tradition al bargains, Tarut has one other ‘must see’ attraction: a market held in a different part of the island each day of the week. Visitors to this travelling market can buy local food, clothes, books, and any variety of knick-knacks at very affordable prices. Bargaining and bartering hard is an essential part of the fun! The market is held in the center of Tarut on Sundays and Tuesdays, but if you’re visiting any other day of the week , ask a local and they’ll point you in the direction of the market’s location. If you’re in search of a slower pace of life, of a life which still remains true to old customs and traditions - then visit Tarut. The island is on ly an hour’s drive from Dammam or Al-Khobar and you can easily idle away a day here exploring its ancient history, visiting the Portuguese fort, enjoying the coffee shops and restaurants or simply sitting on the dock and waiting for the boats to return to por t. Whatever you decide to do, know that you will be welcomed both as a friend and honored visitor by Tarut’s laid back community: Just don’t forget - you’ll have to leave the place, eventuall y.


_ INDUSTRY / MAPPING

A surprise meeting in the rugged terrain of Riyadh’s southern escarpment has led to an appreciation of one Saudi’s special skills. Sharon Dunn tells Saudi Voyager of the passion of Abdullah Al Sayari

Mapping the future

A

chance meeting atop the Makkah escarpment to the south of Riyadh led to the reinforcement of my belief that there are many hidden riches and areas of natural beauty in this fascinating country. Sitting in the shade of our vehicle enjoying the late afternoon sunshine, my husband and I were waiting for friends to return from a walk when over the ridge appeared a lone hiker. During a brief exchange of pleasantries, it soon became clear that we were in the presence of someone with an unusually deep knowledge of the rural areas of Saudi Arabia, especially when he explained that he had been exploring the Kingdom since he was a child. He explained that his passion for the great outdoors had been instilled in him at a young age thanks to his father and grandfather, who regularly took him out on hiking and camping trips. They educated the youngster about the animals and plant life indigenous to the region and, in addition to an appreciation of his natural surroundings, also passed on a love of astronomy and Saudi history. These interests became deeply rooted in Abdullah Al Sayari, and even during a


distinguished, 32-year career with Saudi Arabian Airlines, he continued making forays into the desert and remote areas of the Kingdom to explore and map areas of interest. This commitment to recording the details of the Saudi landscape ultimately led to the establishment of a business where today he shares his wealth of knowledge and experience with others who have a love of the countryside. From aerial photographs sourced from the Internet and utilising GPS software, Abdullah treks to a different location every weekend. Then, using special equipment, he enhances the images of the chosen site by adding the sort of useful details that help travellers and tourists, such as the locations of roads, service stations, towns and villages, hotels and heritage sites. After several years compiling a library of these special maps and seeing the interest they generated amongst his friends, Abdullah realised there was a commercial opportunity for the maps as there were no other sources of detailed information for the type of location he was visiting. In 2002 he sold his first map through a relative, and from that small beginning his business grew to such an extent that in 2008 he opened a dedicated store,

Desert Maps, in Riyadh’s Industrial City 2. Now, after nearly a decade of mapping, Abdullah has an extensive catalogue of maps covering the length and breadth of the Kingdom, which provide an excellent reference for all those intending to make an excursion to the less visited areas of the country. Whether the interest is in identifying a unique picnic spot on the outskirts of a major city or, for the more adventurous, a camping trip to a new territory, the maps certainly make any trip easier to undertake. They are available in digital format for use in GPS devices or as SD cards for mobile devices. When asked to identify his personal favourite spot in the Kingdom, Abdullah admits that he rarely visits the same place twice, as every weekend is devoted to mapping a new location. However, he does express a special fondness for Madain Shu’aib, otherwise known as MadyanMaghabir Shu’aib or the Caves of Shu’aib. Named after one of the Prophets mentioned in the Quran, Shu’aib was a preacher of the Midian civilisation which prospered in the northwest of the Arabian peninsular for many centuries. Despite Prophet Shu’aib being a

_ INDUSTRY / MAPPING

VOYAGER TIP Permission to visit Madain Shu’aib can be obtained by contacting: Director General of the Dept of Antiquities The National Museum of Riyadh PO Box 3734, Riyadh 11419 Fax: (+966) 01 404 1391 Desert Maps Tel: (+966) 01 417 6665 Fax: (+966) 01 417 6664 E-mail: [email protected] : Website: www.desertmaps.com Coordinates: N 24 34 213 / E 46 36.86

Midianite, Madain Shu’aib is primarily known from the Nabatean trade route and as an agricultural settlement that prospered centuries later, from 100BC to 550CE, until a 20 -year drought forced the population to resettle in the Fertile Crescent. The Nabatean’s success was due in part to their engineering skills, which were amongst the best in the ancient world, which were demonstrated in their clever harnessing of the area’s water supply utilising a network of ditches and channels, some of which are still in use today. Whilst Petra and Madain Saleh are well kn own Nabatean archaeological sites of these ancient people, Madain Shu’aib was a much smaller settlement comprising just 30 well-preserved tombs. Spread over three mountains, the tombs range from simple, unadorned cave-like

rooms carved into the rock face to som e with several rooms and displaying more elaborate facades. Indeed, the design on one tomb in particular is a unique example of the marvellous architectural talents of the Nabateans, with fleur-de-lis adorning either side of the tomb and bundles of reeds, or flowers decorating the band over the doorway. Above some of the tombs is a deep water cistern carved into the rocks. The Madain Shu’aib site is unde r the protection of the Saudi Commision for Tourism and Antiquities,Department of Antiquities: it is guarded when open to the public and permission must be obtained prior to visiting. Madain Shu’aib nestles in the Nisma Mountain range in the oasis of Al Bad and is surrounded by established palm trees, with the mountains forming a beautiful backdrop to the remarkable location. The area can be reached by flying into Tabuk, which is about 220km from Madain Shu’aib and is an excellent base from which to explore the site. There are a couple of routes from which to choose to drive to the site, but perhaps the most scenic, and striking, is down the escarpment road and along the Red Sea coast. Depending on your preferences, you may be either pleased, or disappointed, to know that no off-road driving is required for the journey. As you leave Tabuk, the scenery is predominantly brown, eroded hills but as the road continues west the hills become darker, more volcanic looking, and the desert sand turns to coral red. Some of the rocky outcrops along the way have unique shapes. One example, about 50km from Tabuk, is called ‘Safina’ and resembles a dhow, the traditional

Arab sailing vessel. Descending the escarpment always provides spectacular scenery, and this route is no exception: majestic mountains tower above the landscape, stretching out as far as the eye can see until the beautiful aquamarine waters of the Red Sea come into view. For the final part of the journey signs will help guide you to the site, so it is not difficult to find. Guards will ask to see your permit before allowing entry: once inside, you will find paths and steps which have been constructed to allow easy access to the tombs. It is easy to understand why this site is a favourite of Abdullah’s, although he also speaks highly about other places to visit in the vicinity of Tabuk or en route to Madain Shu’aib. He and his shop are a great sou rce of information for those interested in getting out into the countryside of Saudi Arabia, and Abdullah is pleased to share his knowledge and enthusiasm for his topic and to advise o n the best routes to take for a trip. He will also happily discuss the many options for places to visit in the Kingdom or to find a journey that will appeal. He may even be able to help with equipment, as he stocks a range of camping and hiking gear. From time-to-time he also arranges accompanied trips that are sure to take you to new places to discover and learn about. He has an engaging style, easy-going nature and excellent sense of humour that makes him an ideal travelling companion. He and his accumulated knowledge are indeed a unique resource and, thanks to Abdullah, my passion to explore this great country has grown even stronger.

I R A Y A S L A H A L L U

D B A : S E G A M I


_LIFESTYLE / GOLF

Capital golf Considering golf has a reputation as being the best way to spoil a good walk, its growing popularity may surprise some, however, along with other parts of the world, Saudi Arabia has seen an increase in golfing facilities. Saudi Voyager reviews golfing options in the capital


_LIFESTYLE / GOLF

F

ans of spoiling a good walk by the hitting of a small ball around the countryside now have four courses to choose from in the capital. In the early days of golf in the Kingdom, golf courses were constructed in desert areas with fairways of graded sand and greens, referred to as ‘browns’, made of compacted, ultrafine sand mixed with oil and rolled smooth to allow the ball to roll smoothly. Players of these courses carried a small square of Astroturf from which they would tee off. While these sand courses have largely been phased out, one or two still exist in the Kingdom providing occasional entertainment for a few traditionalists. Today, Riyadh’s four golf courses compete with the best available anywhere and are located at Dirab in the Tawfiq valley, the InterContinental hotel in the town centre, the Arizona housing compound north of the city and there is Riyadh Golf Courses beside the Qassim road twenty minutes from the city center. The courses are all well-appointed and, although not necessarily competing for a place in the record books against the greats of the world’s golf courses, each has its own unique challenges for players. Indeed, it may be hard to match say, the world's highest course (14,335 feet above sea level at Tactu Golf Club, Morococha) or the one with the largest green (28,000 square feet at the International Golf Club, Massachusetts). However, it would be perfectly feasible for Riyadh to achieve say the longest hole (909 yards, par 7 at the Satsuki Golf Club, Japan) and it VOYAGER TIP wouldn’t need a very creative mind Book a round of golf in the capital: to come up with a course design that competed successfully with the Dirab Golf & Country Club: +966 1 812 6671 world's largest sand bunker (Hell's Half Acre at the Pine Valley Course, [email protected] New Jersey). Located on the N65 Qassim road Riyadh Golf Courses +966 059 231 5787 out of Riyadh, Riyadh Golf Courses [email protected] was originally a sand course before www.riyadhgolfcourses.com development of the facilities in 1997 when HRH Prince Faisal Al Saud made a long-term investment Arizona Golf Resort +966 1 248 4444 in the club to turn it into a premier golfing facility. A grassed nine holes Palms Golf Course course was opened in 2005 and a +966 465 5000 back nine in 2007 making the total

7,503 yards one of the longest courses in the Middle East. The par-72 official Championship Course boasts four lakes integrated into the overall design by a system of streams and landscaped grounds of beautiful fairways and lush vegetation, making it a pleasant golfing experience. The course has several challenging holes including the longest, a par-5 of 739 yards bordered by bunkers and a narrow approach plus the intimidating pa r-3 of just 162 yards guarded by water on al l sides. Visitors are able to book a round either at the weekend – SR350, or mid-week at SR250 while golf clubs are available to rent. The club also offers a number of casual dining options. Dirab Golf and Country Club is the other grassed, 18-hole course in Riyadh. Located an easy 40 minute drive south of Riyadh, the par-72 Championship Course and the 9-hole Academy Course are both open to visitors. Weekend green fees are SR450 and just SR100 during mid-week, with a full set of G10 clubs available for rent at SR150 for a round of 18 holes. Golf carts may also be rented. Nestled in the picturesque Tawfiq valley and with tree-lined fairways, manicured greens and pleasant club facilities, Dirab makes for a pleasant outof-town destination. The back nine holes are floodlit so it’s possible to play an after work round in the evening. One of the capital’s two 9-hole courses is lo cated at the Arizona residential compound located north of the city on Airport Road, just behind the distinctive Sabic building. Very much a domestic attraction, the course has no floodlighting and tee times are between 5am and 5pm. Visitors are able to book a round at SR165 at weekends and SR110 during the week. The other 9-hole course is the attractive city center course attached to the Riyadh InterContinental hotel, the Palms Golf Course. The short par-3 course is attractively landscaped and floodlit allowing tee times from 6am until 7pm for 18 holes and 8pm for 9 hole s. Green fees for visitors are SR175 for 18 holes and SR135 for 9, which include an attractive offer on the rental of a set of clubs. So, with these attractive options, there’s no excuse for not getting out in the fresh air to enjoy some exercise in a pleasant environment. Just remember, no matter how badly you play golf, it‘s always possible to get worse.

BELOW: RIYADH GOLF COURSE

S E S R U

O C F L O G H D A Y I R / K C O T S R E T T U H S : S E G A M I


_ LIFESTYLE / WILDLIFE

T

he story of the now extinct ostrich of the Arabian peninsular is well known. The birds, which had evolved to survive in harsh desert environments and appropriately nicknamed ‘camel birds’, disappeared to subsistence hunting by the 1940s. The Houbara Bustard, a favorite quarry of falconers, is being brought back from the edge of a similar fate, thanks to the extensive efforts of Saudi Arabia’s National Wildlife Research Center (NWRC). For thousands of years, the hunting of Houbara has been deeply embedded in the Arabian culture, being depicted in rock drawings and often referred to by Arabic poets and storytellers. Originally a migratory seasonal visitor, when Houbara arrived in northern Saudi Arabia in large numbers from Central Asia, falconers used to take to their camels and carry their falcons to hunt what was traditionally considered the Almighty’s compensation to those who endured the summer desert heat. The shy and nervous birds inhabit sandy and stony semi desert areas and have evolved to exist in arid conditions where there is little shrubbery or greenery. They feed on invertebrates, small vertebrates and any green shoots they can forage. In their natural habitat, they are stimulated into breeding by the growth of grass following seasonal rains, typically laying two to four eggs in a small, scraped hollow on the ground, which unfortunately leaves both the eggs and young vulnerable to ground predators. The majority of Houbara Bustard arrived from Central Asia, Turkmenistan, China and Mongolia to winter in Saudi Arabia. In 1997, the National Avian Research Center (NARC) in Abu Dhabi in the United Arab Emirates fitted satellite transmitters on visiting Houbara to study their migratory movements and found that the birds made their way as far as the northern Chinese province of Xinjiang, covering more than 6,600km in just 54 days, crossing Iran, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan. Eight months later, the tracked birds,

following the same route, returned to Abu Dhabi. Since the advent of four-wheel-drive vehicles, it has become easier for people to pursue Houbara, even into the most inaccessible desert areas. Once an elite sport, hunting is now widely affordable and increasing in popularity. Regrettably, there are also some undesirable deviations from traditional practice, such as extending the usual hunting season of October till March, all of which has impacted the breed’s ability to recover its numbers. The birds are also illegally trapped to be used in the training of falcons. Compounded with habitat loss and degradation of their environment as desert areas are developed for agriculture and infrastructural projects, populations of Houbara are seeing a frightening decline. Although there is no reliable data for the rates of decline, figures as high as 40 to 50 per cent over the past fi ve years are mentioned, and given the substantial threats, declines are likely to continue to be significant. Studies of the number and distribution of breeding birds in Saudi Arabia have reflected this steep decline. Characteristically, the Houbara bred in areas from the Jordanian border in the north, extending south in a broad band encompassing the northwest and eastern regions of Saudi Arabia as far as the Rub-al-Khali. However, the Houbara is now an uncommon breeding visitor, mostly restricted to the northwestern region of Saudi Arabia, specifically the Harrat al-Harrah, al Hammad and Al Nafud protected areas. Unfortunately, over the last five years, even here there have been losses recorded and the poaching of Houbara continues. As part of an international initiative, conservation and breeding projects have been established in several of the birds’ traditional regions, including Morocco, Pakistan and

Saving the Houbara Bustard The Houbara Bustard has been under threat of going the way of the now extinct Arabian ostrich. It is hoped the extensive efforts of the Saudi government to re-establish these shy desert birds in the Kingdom will have a positive outcome. M. Zafar-ul Islam, manager of the reintroduction program tells Saudi Voyager of progress to date


M A L S I L U R A F A Z . M : S E G A M I

the UAE. In Saudi Arabia, the National Commission for Wildlife Conservation and Development now Saudi Wildlife Authority (SWA) established in 1986 to ensure habitats are properly managed to overcome the threats faced by the birds in this region with a captive breeding and reintroduction program introduced to avert the risk of local extinction. Captive breeding and reintroduction program By the 1980s, the breeding population of Houbara Bustard in Saudi Arabia had virtually disappeared and it was decided to launch a captive-breeding program, along with a program of reintroduction and the release of captive-bred birds. Between 1986 and 1988, fertile eggs were collected under government permit from resident populations in Baluchistan in Pakistan. These were managed through a program of artificial insemination by the NWRC. The program achieved a significant level of success. With careful management and the application of artificial insemination techniques, in the 1990s, there were enough Houbara chicks available to replenish losses in the breeding unit and also to be able to release birds into the wild.

Reintroduction sites in Saudi Arabia Two sites were selected in Saudi Arabia for the reintroduction of the Houbara, Mahazat as-Sayd and Saja Umm ar-Rimth. The Mahazat as-Sayd protected area is in Makkah province and comprises about 219,000 hectares of fairly level, sandy plain at around 1,000 metres above sea level. It has a few rocky outcrops and was originally set up in 1988 as a special nature reserve for the reintroduction of the Arabian Oryx, Sand Gazelle and Red-necked Ostrich. Located about 175km northwest of Taif and south of Al-Muwayh, it is 550km from Riyadh and 300km from Jeddah. Another reintroduction site established as an extension of Mahazat as-Sayd is Saja Umm Ar-Rimth in the area of Jabal Barah about 5km east of the Zalim-Afif road. In Mahazat as-Sayd during the breeding season, most of the females make a nest on the open area, avoiding vegetation, but males are seen in the vegetative cover which consists of moderate or sparse perennials, primarily grasses, herbs and shrubs, and sometimes including larger bushes and trees such as Acacia. The birds have also been recorded foraging in the green vegetation in wadis and small depressions while roosting in the elevated boulder fields at night. Similarly, in Saja Umm Ar-Rimth, Houbara are regularly seen in more open areas, but also seen resting in the shade of rocks or shrubbery during the middle of the day in summer. The nesting season of the Houbara at Mahazat, which is the only reserve in Saudi Arabia where large numbers of the birds breed each year, is from February to May. Nests are found close to sandy wadis, in areas of small basaltic boulders and in good vegetation cover. Sometimes nest sites are selected in areas where there are a large number of ant colonies. This could be because of the easy access to food for females and their broods.


_ LIFESTYLE / WILDLIFE


CHALLENGES IN CONSERVATION Conservation of natural habitat; avoid encroachment Effective implementation of national legislation to protect the Houbara and other bird species No illegal hunting in or around reintroduction sites Hunting must be banned during the breeding season General public should respect the protected reintroduction sites Falconers should participate in NWRC conservation programs Conservation awareness programs should be continued. More areas are required as Houbara release sites OPPOSITE TOP: HOUBARA IN FLIGHT OPPOSITE BOTTOM: HOUBARA CHICKS IN THE WILD ABOVE: HOUBARA BUSTARD EGGS IN THE WILD

Reintroduction of Houbara The reintroduction of Houbara was started in Mahazat as-Sayd in 1991 and since then, more than 1000 Houbara have been released with an almost equal sex ratio. After shifting the birds from captive breeding to the reserve, the birds are kept in long, tunnel-shaped cages in predator-free enclosures to become acclimatized to the natural environment. During this time, predators such as foxes and cats are trapped and moved away from the release sites, and after three to four weeks the birds are gently released by opening the tunnels in the early morning. Water and food pellets are provided around the enclosures for a couple of weeks to aid their transition to the natural environment. The current population of the Houbara in Mahazat is between 300 and 400 Houbaras. In Saja Umm Ar Rimth, the reintroduction program of Houbara was started in 2003, and around 200 Houbara Bustard have been released, again with an equal mix of gender.

Houbara monitoring

M A L S I L U R A F A Z . M : S E G A M I

NWRC has implemented a program of equipping Houbaras with radio transmitters for monitoring and research purposes. The birds are tracked and monitored on the ground from vehicles fitted with radio receivers, while missing and migrating birds are tracked from small aircraft. In April 2011, three wild Houbaras were caught in the northeast of Saudi Arabia by a falconer, who gave the birds to NWRC for research purposes. The birds were fitted with satellite transmitters and two of them have moved and are currently resting near the border with Iran and Iraq and every second day NWRC receives their GPS locations via email. Although research and monitoring of the Houbara Bustard has been undertaken in the Kingdom for more than 20 years, there remains a need for more information and for p ublic

SAUDI VOYAGER TIP Access to the reintroduction sites in the company of a NWRC ranger can be arranged by writing to the Secretary General of the Saudi Wildlife Authority with a copy to Director of NWRC: Secretary General Saudi Wildlife Authority P.O Box 61681, Riya dh 11575 Kingdom of Saudi Arabia Tel : (+966) 1 441 8700 http://www.ncwcd.gov.sa

awareness of the threats faced by this icon of traditonal Arab life in the Kingdom. The NWRC is involved in a comprehensive program of activities and lobbying among both the government and public to highlight these issues and to educate everyone involved.

Public Awareness

Public awareness and educational programs have been launched by NWRC as a key component of their conservation activities, focusing on the region around the reintroduction sites. The programs are aimed at General Director informing and educating citizens National Wildlife Research Center about the biological and historic PO Box 1086, Taif, Saudi Arabia significance of the Houbara, in Tel: (+966) 2 748 1252, addition to other wildlife, in order to encourage their participation 748 1271, 748 1307 Email: [email protected] in the conservation programs. This information campaign brings together school pupils, college students and the general public with faculty from colleges and universities and specialists in the conservation programs; indeed, anyone who wants to play a role in wildlife conservation. The campaign include exhibitions, slide shows and lectures and in-house wildlife films that inform the general public about wildlife conservation in general and specifically the Houbara protection program. Plans are being formulated to extend this program to major cities around the Kingdom to make everyone aware of the fragile existence of the Houbara Bustard. It would be an unfortunate irony if, due to the growth of the historic Arab recreation of falconing the trend in decimation of Houbara numbers is perpetuated, eventually leading to a total collapse of the species and the loss of an ancient Arab tradition.


_RECREATION / REVIEW



W

e live in an age where information travels the globe in milliseconds, where what happens in one part of the world is picked up in another seemingly almost instantly. What is today’s new and improved provision is tomorrow’s standard. There are many examples that we can all call up. Having been travelling recently, in-flight entertainment comes immediately to mind. A few years ago this was a loudly promoted unique selling point for only one or two international airlines. Today even budget airlines are moving away from their ‘no frills’ positioning and have started adding this once-distinctive service. Another example is butler service: originated by a few elite, Far Eastern hotels, today any aspiring serviced apartment operator advertises a variation on the theme. Optional extras on cars provide another example where the originators soon lose the advantage as new gadgets become expected equipment. In a commercial environment, this speed of uptake means it is virtually impossible to maintain a competitive edge or even an element of uniqueness for very long. Any newly conceived service, product or facility launched in say Australia, France or the US today will be known

about, scrutinised and replicated on another continent within a matter of weeks or months. Of course it is not always replicated with the same degree of expertise or panache that the creators managed, but nonetheless the exclusivity and potential USP can be very quickly lost. That is why it can be the little things that make a difference between success and failure, why the memorable experience often results from small individual points of difference that make a positive and enduring impact on clientele. One such unusual and striking thing about the new Sofitel Al Khobar is the very attractive smell permeating the reception as you enter. It is a simple but effective idea that provides a pleasant and welcoming aroma that generates a smile and a feeling of confidence for newly arriving guests. In a region of the world where fragrance matters it is, as the saying goes, ‘a good thing’. The attention to detail in the reception area extends to the comfortably furnished and nicely laid out lounge with floor to ceiling windows which create a nice bright lounge for guests to relax and unwind in. Indeed, it soon becomes obvious that the hotel is well-designed and has an interesting structure. As you glide upward in one of two glass elevators from the reception area towards the accommodation you catch a glimpse of several more relaxing internal lounges of varying sizes as well as external seating areas, each with their own distinctive character. As you ascend, you pass a large glass feature wall that reaches up nine storeys and affords panoramic views across Al Khobar, most attractive after dark.

Small points, big difference In the age of the Internet and interconnected world it can be challenging for any business to try and stand out from the crowd. The Sofitel Al Khobar makes a good effort to do so. Barry Gray reports on the results



In itself, the architecture of the hotel is interesting but, combined with the unmistakable interior design and fittings of the French Sofitel group, results in a chic and fashionably comfortable ambiance. This is a hotel for the discerning traveller – for those who enjoy a relaxed but well-ordered environment, where comfort is not sacrificed for price and where it is evident that people have carefully thought through every aspect of their offering. On reaching the accommodation the tastefully furnished rooms won’t disappoint. While not large, they are well proportioned, have a large picture window with great city or sea views and have all the expected accessories plus a few that are not – including a very upmarket Bose Wave music system. However, I’m not sure many guests get to fully experience the system as, disappointingly, the hotel does not offer a facility for renting or buying CDs to try out the system. The beds are a feature. They look inviting, comprising a feather mattress and the finest French bed linen and duvet, decorated with scatter cushions. Sofitel are so

confident of their beds that there is even a brochure in the room from which the wellheeled can place an order for the very same item to be delivered to their home including all the pillows, bed linen and duvet. For once the in-room TV was able to be comfortably watched from a rather nice and surprisingly comfortable chaise longue: a great improvement on the shortbacked and rigid armchairs that many hotels provide – which would be more at home in an office reception than to relax and unwind in. It’s another nice touch. It’s a great shame that the property, which is so tantalisingly near to the sea, doesn’t have access to either the beach front or even a garden which would transform it into something really special. Even so, the sea facing rooms offer a panoramic view of the Arabian Gulf right across to the Causeway making the Sofitel Al Khobar an unusual combination of city center hotel and sea views. As you’d expect from a hotel group headquartered in the home of gastronomy, the food selection in the hotel’s only restaurant, the grandly named Café Chic, is good. There is an open buffet virtually throughout the day with a selection of dishes standard to the region. These are well-prepared and nicely presented with a price indication of SR185 per person, including taxes, for lunch or dinner. Regrettably, for those unable to resist the temptation of a full buffet, there is no one-course or soup-and-salad option. However, there is an à la carte menu available as an alternative. The restaurant is spacious, comfortably furnished and has nice views over the Arabian Gulf. A welcome point here, again setting Sofitel apart, is its strict no smoking policy in the restaurant. In a region which has only recently started to appreciate and react to the harmful effects of smoking and the socially unacceptable imposition of second hand smoke, Sofitel’s uncompromising no-smoking rule sets a fine example that many others would do well to take on board. There are alternative dining options: for those that book a Club Floor room, these come with all-day access to a comfortable, seventh-

THE SOFITEL AL KHOBAR GOES OUT OF ITS WAY TO ATTEND TO THE SMALL POINTS THAT MAKE A BIG DIFFERENCE floor lounge offering a light buffet and refreshments throughout the day. Also, on the first floor there is the Chocolate lounge which offers refreshments and a snack menu and special pastries and desserts. Once you have enjoyed the fine cuisine on offer, the extremely wellequipped – and under-utilized – gym is available to work off some of the calories. In addition to the work-out room, the attractions also include a sauna and steam room, jacuzzi and a small outside swimming pool. Alternatively in the evening, a nice walk along the adjacent Corniche will enable you to also enjoy the sea air. The overriding feeling engendered by the hotel is that it has been designed and is being run by an organisation that cares. The staff are attentive and well-trained and appear truly happy to provide you a service, another small but important point of differentiation. The Sofitel Al Khobar goes out of its way to attend to the small points that make a big difference. Barry Gray stayed at the Sofitel Al Khobar in September 2011 as a gues t of the hotel.



Traditional tastes of Saudi Arabia Najd Village provides a sumptuous experience of the Central Region

N

o trip, no vacation or visit is complete without sharing a culinary experience with family or friends. This is especially true in Saudi Arabia where providing refreshment and sustenance to travelers remains an integral part of original Bedouin culture. While authentic Saudi food is hearty, richly spiced and full of flavors, the challenge can be to find a restaurant that offers traditional Saudi cuisine. Fortunately, in the capital Najd Village restaurant (Quria Najdia in Arabic) is the best choice for those who want to sample the Kingdom’s cuisine, particularly dishes from the country’s central Najd region, in an ambiance that reflects earlier days in the Kingdom. The restaurant has two branches in the capital – the first is located centrally on Al Takhasosi Road. The larger of the two branches and the most family friendly is on Abo Baker Sadiq Road opposite Prince Sultan University. Both are built and decorated in the style of traditional Najd housing with colored external walls with painted decoration around the main architectural features and the buildings border an open, central courtyard in the style of traditional Arab houses. Adding a feel of a

bygone era, outside the Abo Baker restaurant you’ll find a number of 1950s vintage era cars, including GMCs and Chevrolets. Inside expect more of the same historic feel. There’s a myriad of antique pieces inside the restaurant where there are displays of coins, jewelry, watches, and even some weapons from decades past. A centerpiece is a well with traditional rope and bucket and winch wheel to draw up the water. To top it off, inside the roof is of palm fronds and the walls are decorated to appear as if they’re made from mud. Surrounded by the modern metropolis that is Riyadh, the theme of being hosted in a bygone era certainly does take your mind off the chaos outside. In keeping with the time-honored style of entertaining in this region, you eat sitting on carpets on the floor at Na jd Village. The men’s section is open so while there’s a two foot wall around your sitting area you will be able to look across the entire length of the restaurant. In the family section you will be seated in your own private room, which affords more privacy to your group. The restaurant will bring spoons and forks, but eating with your hands can also be part of the fun. As an honored visitor, on arrival you’ll be welcomed with copious amounts of small glasses of Arabic coffee or tea (there’s a tea room just to the side of the main entrance) which allows you time to choose from over 50 different dishes. House favorites include Kabsah, a rice dish with your choice of lamb, chicken or shrimp. There’s also Magloba,



a dish of meat or chicken on a bed of lamb and vegetables which is turned upside down before serving. A favorite is a rice and chicken dish from Saudi Arabia’s Western Region which is cooked in milk known as Saleek. Reflecting Najd’s farming tradition, the list of wheatbased dishes is extensive: there’s Jareesh which is barley cooked in yoghurt, or order goursan which is a mixture of dry thin brown bread with mixed vegetables and lamb. With the world’s largest region of date cultivation on the doorstep, it is no surprise that there’s also date dishes such as Henainnee, a mixture of dates and brown bread sautéed in butter, or Afees, traditional brown bread combined with seedless dates and butter. If you’re feeling even more adventurous why not order camel meat Kabsah or Hashi Badya, a camelmeat dish topped off by a layer of jareesh, a layer of goursan and a layer of rice. For those lucky enough to come during the truffle season (yes, you can find truffles in under desert scrub) then order a side dish of truffles cooked with rice. You won’t regret it. The main dishes are served on large platters to be shared between all the guests and in keeping with local habit, each main course is to be tried by all present. The main courses themselves are generous so if you’re unsure about how much to order ask the waiter. The rice dishes are bursting with the flavor of the meats but you can also taste the spices, onions, raisins, and lemons that are added to add extra taste. The side dishes can be eaten BELOW: THE ARCHITECTURE OF NAJD VILLAGE RESTAURANT as starters, but you’re best REFLECTS THE BUILDING STYLE OF THE CENTRAL REGION pouring the yoghurt and pepper


VOYAGER TIP

salad over the rice and mixing the flavours. If you’re looking for something lighter, the restaurant’s specialty Barley soup will Najd Village Al-Takhasosi Road hit the spot, served with copious amounts of freshly baked bread. A favorite bread is (+966) 01 464 6530 sabeeb: you can choose from salty sabeeb which is small bread slices served in a tomato Abo Baker Sadiq Road (+966) 01 225 0034 sauce or sweet sabeeb which is bread drizzled with honey. Both are scrumptious and will leave you always reaching for just one more bite. Service at Najd Village tends to be very quick and efficient with waiters bringing your order in only a few minutes. So, to savor your dinner over the course of the evening, you can order your dishes in small amounts, such as salads and starters, followed by main courses and later desserts. Unfortunately, for those with a sweet tooth, the dessert menu is a little limited but there are some traditional dishes such as sweet sabeeb, Henainnee, ghafees, mohalibiya and for the health conscious, water melon. The tea selection alone is worth a trip to Najd Village. There’s a delightful range of teas to choose from and which are flavored with a wide range of spices including cardamom, cloves, ginger and saffron. Having eaten well, you can digest your meal and while away your time sipping tea and enjoying conversation. Just don’t forget that sooner or later you’ll have to leave Najd Village. What’s most surprising about Najd Village is the price. While the quality of the food is excellent, you’ll be hard pressed to pay more than 60 Riyals a person for a three course meal with drinks. The restaurant opens from noon till midnight, staying open later on Wednesday and Thursday, so timing is no handicap if you plan to sample the delights on offer at Najd Village, but do call ahead if you’re planning to visit at the weekend to avoid a long wait.

_LIFESTYLES / MY FAVORITE PLACE BELOW: AMADAIN SALEH

The intrigue of history His work took HE Talmiz Ahmed, the Ambassador of the Republic of India to all four corners of the Kingdom. He tells Saudi Voyager of his particular favorites prior to his departure from the Kingdom on completion of his tour of duty

M U O H R A M L A

D E E L A W : E G A M I

I have completed three postings in Saudi Arabia: initially as Consul General b ased in J eddah (1987–1990) and twice as A mbassador (2000–2003 and 2010–2011). Overall, my stay in the Kingdom was of about nine years and I have also worked in other GCC countries as well as in the US and South Africa. During my tenure here, I have travelled to a lot of the smaller towns that exhibit the rich cultural heritage of the Kingdom. The focus on tourism is a recent development in Saudi Arabia, which will be helped by the excellent national road network that has been built to a very high standard. As increased facilities such as hotels, motels and service areas are added to the network it will be further enhanced.

When we were first in the Kingdom, our twin daughters were with us and went to school here, but they are now pursuing their own careers and my wife and I have been living in Riyadh by ourselves. We have a rich social and cultural life due to the number of events of interest to the Saudi, diplomatic and expatriate communities. These have included our participation in the Riyadh Book Fair, a major art exhibition showcasing the works of prominent Saudi and Indian women artists, an international film festival, and cultural shows depicting Indian costumes and folk and classical dance and music. In our leisure time, we read a lot, from political and historical non-fiction to light thrillers.

My wife and I have been lucky enough to travel extensively by road across Saudi Arabia, and these tours have appealed to our combined interests in the history, culture and economic development of the country. We have visited most of the major museums including the National Museum in Riyadh and regional museums in Al-Ula, Hail and Najran. We have also visited the historic sites of Najran, Madain Saleh and Madinah. The holy cities of Makkah and Madinah are central to Islamic history and culture, so a visit to the various historical sites in these cities, with a qualified guide, can be most enriching. The same applies to Jeddah, which has a number of sites of considerable historical

value. I also enjoyed my three visits to Madain Saleh, seeing the remains of the Nabataean civilization and the railway station of the Hejaz Railway that was destroyed in the First World War. We have also enjoyed the historical site at Najran and the rock carvings outside the town on the caravan route to Riyadh. On reflection, my favorite places in the Kingdom are Al-Ula and Madain Saleh. The traces of the old civilizations, the ruins of the ancient settlement, the remains of traditional lifestyle and a thousand years of history are all very intriguing for me. The development of Saudi Arabia as a holiday destination, even for residents has started quite recently and with the way it’s moving ahead it is likely that the Kingdom will develop quite an interest. Of course, the tourism industry, which is quite new, will need to be developed further, especially in the rural areas, to help the country become more ‘tourist friendly’, but the people of Saudi Arabia are very proud of their history and traditions and welcome people who are interested in their culture. Approaching the country with an open mind and a sense of adventure will reap rewards for those interested. The Kingdom has a lot to offer of both religious and historical value from pre-historic, preIslamic and the Islamic periods.


_DIRECTORY / HOTELS

SLEEPING

in Saudi Arabia With more locally trained staff and increasing focus on quality service, accommodation options across Saudi Arabia are getting better and better. Saudi Voyager highlights some of the favorites Hotel options in Saudi Arabia are extensive and range from magnificent five-star properties to charming local and family-run hotels and self-catering apartments. In one of its regular features, Saudi Voyager reports on a range of options that

will meet the needs of the most discerning of travelers to the Kingdom. Whereveryou are there is a perfect place to sleep in Saudi Arabia. Hotels and inns here are some of the best in the world and standards nationwide continue to improve. On-the-

job training as well as postgraduate and university courses are helping produce worldclass catering and hospitality facilities that will dazzle the most demanding traveler. Many major hotel chains have significant properties in the kingdom, including

Marriott, the Four Seasons, Hilton, Holiday Inn, and Sheraton, and many are expanding their presence. This all bodes well for those in Saudi Arabia’s hospitality sector and for visitors eyeing options in one of the world’s most interesting destinations.

HILTON MAKKAH HOTEL

AREAS OF INTEREST Saudi Arabia h as 13 Administrative Provinces. All have extensive accommodation options

Overlooking the Holy Haram Mosque and the Kaaba, the Hilton Makkah hotel is set in the heart of Makkah. Whether the guests' prerogative is to dine out in the 7 restaurants and cafés or do business in one of the 6 meeting rooms for 3 to 300 persons. The propoerty also boasts two 10,000-seater prayer halls and an onsite shopping mall. The hotel has newly renovated rooms with direct access to Haram, wireless Internet access, Caffè Cino and a well-equipped business centre. Web: www.hilton.co.uk Phone: 00966 (02)537 3800


Province name Al–Baha Northern Border Al–Jawf Al–Madinah Al–Munawara Al–Qassim Ha’il Asir Eastern Province Al–Riyadh Tabuk Najran Makkah Al–Mukaramah Jizan

City name Al Bahah city Arar Al–Jawf city Madina Buraidah Ha’il city Abha Dammam Riyadh Tabuk city Najran city Makkah Jizan city

_ DIRECTORY / HOTELS

LE MERIDIEN, MAKKAH

NOVOTEL DAMMAM BUSINESS PARK

Overlooking the Holy Mosque and just one hundred meters from the King Abdulaziz Gate, stands Le Méridien Makkah. It has a striking lobby with a stepped ceiling and an ambiance of traditional Arabic hospitality. The hotel’s eye-catching exterior promises a world of elegance in its fashionable interior. The hotel features 255 guest rooms and suites elegantly decorated and furnished with attractive, rich fabrics. One Royal Suite, two Diplomatic Suites, 31 Executive Suites, and 221 elegant guest rooms provide luxurious comfort and an impressive view of the Holy Mosque nearby.

The hotel enjoys a convenient location just 25 minutes from Dammam International Airport with direct access on the Al Khobar - Dammam Highway and close to the heart of a large business park.It is an ideal stopping point for a business trip to Dammam or Al Khobar or for a leisure break as a family. The hotel offers modern and spacious rooms as well as 10 meeting rooms for business seminars and conventions.

Web: www.starwoodhotels.com Phone: 00966 (02) 575 1111

Web: www.accorhotels.com Phone: 00966 (03)845 5555 Fax: 00966 (03)814 3551

LE MERIDIEN, AL KHOBAR

RAMADA GULF HOTEL, RIYADH

Le Méridien Al Khobar, is an oasis of relaxation in lively Al Khobar, once a laid back city of small shops but now featuring a multitude of contemporary malls and boulevards. The surrounding area offers a glimpse of traditional stone structures and Arabia as it once was. The hotel includes 15 meeting rooms that can accommodate up to 600 guests, a sun-drenched outdoor pool, a fitness center and tennis courts. All 330 guestrooms feature beautiful Gulf sea views.

The Ramada Gulf is located in central Al Khobar, a three minute drive from the Corniche and overlooking Prince Saud Bin Jlewi Park. It features a wellequipped gym, massage services and panoramic elevators. Rooms have a spacious layout and modern facilities, including free Wi-Fi and 32 inch flat-screen TVs with satellite channels, bathrooms with bathtubs and most with a kitchenette. Guests can enjoy traditional Arabian specialties and international classics at Le Jasmine restaurant. Momento Café serves light snacks and drinks or as an alternative there is attentive room service.

Web: www.starwoodhotels.com Phone: 00966 (03) 896 9000

Web: www.ramadagulf.com Phone: 00966 (03) 899 1010 Fax: 0 0966 (03) 1616


_DIRECTORY / HOTELS

SLEEPING

in Saudi Arabia HILTON GARDEN INN, RIYADH

MADINAH HILTON HOTEL

The contemporary Hilton Garden Inn Riyadh Olaya hotel is centrally located in the heart of the business district with all major corporations within walking distance or a short taxi ride away. Riyadh International Airport is just a 30-minute drive, which makes it an ideal hotel for business travelers. A busy restaurant and business-like reception makes it an ideal meeting place and there are three flexible meeting rooms, and complimentary 24-hour business center.

Madinah Hilton is cnveniently located a short walk from the Holy Mosque and in the heart of Madinah's shopping district. The hotel also boasts its own ground-floor shopping area and prides itself on the Lobster Thermidore available in the Madinah Restaurant. The hotel has views of the Holy Mosque and is just 25 minutes away from the Prince Mohammed Airport. There is high-speed Internet access in the 24-hour internet café and all the hotel rooms and suites have high-speed internet access. Deluxe Rooms have a separate seating area.

Web: http://hiltongardeninn. hilton.com Phone: 00966 (01) 293 5533 Fax: 00966 (01) 293 5185

Web: www.hilton.com Phone: 00966 (04) 820 1000 Fax: 00966 (04) 820 0557

Villa or apartment accommodation is available in Abha, Al-Habala, Al-Souda, Al-Qara’a and at the Abha Exhibition and Resort Center near Abha airport. A total of 500 modern villas with one to five bedrooms are available year round. For those traveling on a smaller budget, inexpensive rooms are available at the Syahya Airport Motel and the Al-Wadi Motel in new Abha, where there are also 114 one-and two-bedroom apartments



VOYAGER

places to stay RIYADH AL-FAISALIAH HOTEL

RIYADH INTER-CONTINENTAL HOTEL

SAHARA AIRPORT HOTEL King Khalid Int’l Airport P.O. Box 12120, Riyadh 11437 Tel: +966 1 220 4500, Fax: +966 1 220 4505 Sheraton Riyadh Hotel and Towers P.O. Box 90807 Riyadh 11623 Tel: +966 1 454 3300 Fax: +966 1 454 1889 Email: [email protected] Website: www.sheraton.com/riyadh

King Fahd Road, Olaya P.O. Box 4148 Riyadh 11491 Tel: +966 1 273 2000 Fax: +966 1 273 2001 Email: [email protected] Website: www.alfaisaliahhotel.com FOUR SEASONS HOTEL

P.O. Box 3636, Riyadh 11481 Tel: +966 1 465 5000 Fax: +966 1 465 7833 Email: [email protected] Website: www.intercontinental.com

RIYADH MARRIOTT HOTEL P.O. Box 16294 Riyadh 11464 Tel: +966 1 477 9300, Fax: +966 1 477 9089 Email: [email protected] Website: www.riyadhmarriott.com

NOVOTEL AL–ANOUD King Fahd Road-Olaya P.O. Box 2370 Riyadh 12214 Tel: +966 1 288 2323 Fax: +966 1 288 2424 Email: [email protected] Website: www.novotel.com

HILTON GARDEN INN

RADISSON BLU HOTEL

Olaya Main Street Building 8951, Riyadh, Saudi Arabia 12611 Tel: 966-1-293-5533 Fax: 966-1-293-5185 Website: http://hiltongardeninn.h ilton.com

Kingdom Center P.O. Box 231000 Riyadh 11321 Tel: +966 1 211 5000 Fax: +966 1 211 5001 Email: [email protected] Website: www.fourseasons.com/riyadh AL-KHOZAMA HOTEL Olaya Main Road P.O. Box 4148 Riyadh 11491 Tel: +966 1 465 4650 Fax: +966 1 464 8576 Email: [email protected] Website: www.al-khozama.com

Al–Mubarakiah Plaza King Abdulaziz St. Old Airport Road P.O. Box 18006 Riyadh 11415 Tel: +966 1 479 1234 Fax: +966 1 477 5373 Email: [email protected] Website: www.radissonsasblu.com

HOLIDAY INN, RIYADH, OLAYA Olaya Street, P.O. Box 69112 Riyadh 11547 Tel: +966 1 461 2000, Fax: +966 1 461 2595 Email: [email protected] Website: www.holidayinn.com/olaya.riyadh


H D A Y I R

_DIRECTORY / HOTELS

JEDDAH & WESTERN PROVINCE JEDDAH HILTON HOTEL

LE MERIDIEN JEDDAH Madinah Road P.O. Box 11633 Jeddah 21463 Tel: +966 2 663 3333 Fax: +966 2 663 2333 Email: [email protected] Website: www.lemeridienjeddah.com

HOLIDAY INN JEDDAH

GOLDEN TULIP JEDDAH

North Corniche Road P.O. Box 128428 Jeddah 21362 Tel: +966 2 659 0000 Fax: +966 2 659 1111 Email: [email protected] Website: www.hilton.com

Jeddah Al-Salam King Khalid Street P.O. Box 6582 Jeddah 21452 Tel: +966 2 631 4000 Fax: +966 2 631 7605 Email: [email protected] Website: www.holidayinn.com

JEDDAH MARRIOTT HOTEL King Fahd St. Old Airport Road P.O. Box 2559 Jeddah 21461 Tel: +966 2 631 2201 Fax: +966 2 6311350 Email: [email protected] Website: www.goldentulip.com

Palestine Road corner PR Fahad St. P.O. Box 6448 Jeddah 21442 Tel: +966 2 671 4000 Fax: +966 2 617 5990 Email: [email protected] Website: www.jeddahmarriott.com

PARK HYATT JEDDAH MARINA, CLUB & SPA

KANDARA PALACE HOTEL Airport Road P.O. Box 473 Jeddah 21411 Tel: +966 2 631 5444 Fax: +966 2 631 0042 CROWNE PLAZA HOTEL

Southern Corniche Al–Hamra District P.O. Box 5863 Jeddah 21432 Tel: +966 2 657 2737 Fax: +966 2 657 2747 Email: [email protected] Website: www.jeddah.park.hyatt.com

INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL, JEDDAH RAMADA CONTINENTAL JEDDAH

Al–Hamra – Al Corniche Road P.O. Box 41855 Jeddah 21531 Tel: +966 2 661 1800 Fax: +966 2 661 1145 Email: [email protected] Website: www.intercontinental.com

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Al Corniche Al–Hamra P.O. Box 10924 Jeddah 21443 Tel: +966 2 661 1000 Fax: +966 2 660 6326 Email: [email protected] Website: www.crowneplaza.com Palestine Street P.O. Box 7584 Jeddah 21472 Tel: +966 2 667 0777 Fax: +966 2 667 0666 Email: [email protected] Website: www.ramadacontinentaljed.com


RED SEA PALACE HOTEL

JEDDAH TRIDENT HOTEL Mina Street, Jeddah P.O.Box 17466, Jeddah 21494 Tel: +966-2-6474444 Fax: +966-2-6474040 Email: [email protected] Website: www.trident-jeddah.com

MERIDIAN AL-HADA (TAIF)

SOFITEL AL–HAMRA JEDDAH

P.O. Box 824 Jeddah 21421 Tel: +966 2 642 8555 Fax: +966 2 642 2395 Email: [email protected] Website: www.redseapalace.com

Al–Hada Ring Road, P.O. Box 999 Taif Tel: +966 2 754 1400 Fax: +966 2 754 4831 Email: [email protected] Email: www.meredianhotel.com

SHERATON JEDDAH HOTEL Corniche Road P.O. Box 14315 Jeddah 21424 Tel: +966 2 699 2212 Fax: +966 2 699 2660 Email: [email protected] Website: www.sheraton.com/jeddah

QASR AL–SHARQ WALDORF ASTORIA COLLECTION Palestine Street, P.O. Box 7375 Jeddah 21462 Tel: +966 2 660 2000, Fax: +966 2 660 4145 Email: reservations@sofitel-alhamra.com Website: www.sofitel.com SANDS HOTEL

THE WESTIN JEDDAH HOTEL North Corniche P.O. Box 51991 Jeddah 21553 Tel: +966 2 658 8200 Fax: +966 2 658 8201 Email: [email protected] Website: www.westin.com/jeddah AL-BILAD MOVENPICK Al Corniche Highway P.O. Box 6788 Jeddah 21452 Tel: +966 2 694 4777 Fax: +966 2 694 3737 Email: [email protected] Website: www.albiladhotel.net RADISSON SAS

Medinah Road P.O. Box 8483 Jeddah 21482 Tel: +966 2 652 1234 Fax: +966 2 651 6260 Email: [email protected] Website: www.jeddah.radissonsas.com

P.O BOX 7079 Jeddah 21462 Tel: +966 2 659 9999 Fax : +966 2 659 6666 E- mail : [email protected] Website: www.qasralsharqjeddah.com Al–Andalus Area, P.O. Box 7030 Jeddah 21462 Tel: +966 2 669 2020, Fax: +966 2 660 9971 Email: [email protected] Website: www.sandsjeddah.com

DURRAH BEACH RESORT

OBHUR HOLIDAY INN RESORT Al–Malik Road, Corniche P.O. Box 50663 Jeddah 21533 Tel: +966 2 656 3030 Fax: +966 2 656 0110

Red Sea Coastline Po Box 430,Jeddah Saudi Arabia 02 618 0211 Tel: +966 2 6180211 Fax: +966 2 6180210 Website: www.durrahbeach.com


E C N I V O R P N R E T S E W D N A H A D D E J

_DIRECTORY / HOTELS

EASTERN PROVINCE SHERATON DAMMAM HOTEL & TOWERS

DAMMAM PALACE HOTEL

LE MERIDIEN AL-KHOBAR

Prince Mohammed Bin Fahad Road, P.O. Box 5397 Dammam 31422 Tel: +966 3 834 5555 Fax: +966 3 834 9872 Email: [email protected] Website: www.sheraton.com/dammam

P.O.Box 1591 Dammam 31441 Telephone: + 966 3 805 6060 Fax: + 966 3 805 6385 Email: [email protected] Website: www.dammampalacehotel.com

Corniche Road P.O.Box 1266 Al-Khobar 31952 Tel: +966 3 896 9000 Fax: +966 3 898 1651 Email: [email protected] Website: www.lemeridien.com

RAMADA GULF HOTEL P.O Box 79016 Khobar 31952 Phone : +966 3 899 1010 Fax: +966 3 889 1616 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.ramadagulf.com

AL-AHSA INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL King Khalid Street, Hafuf P.O. Box 25 Al-Ahsa 31982 Tel: +966 3 584 0000 Fax: +966 3 584 0400 Email: [email protected] Website: www.ihg.com

AL-GOSAIBI HOTEL Pepsicola Road P.O. Box 3006 Al-Khobar 31952 Tel: +966 3 882 2882 Fax: +966 3 882 2321 Email: [email protected] Website: www.algosaibi-hotel.com

MAKKAH AND MADINAH AL–SHOHADA HOTEL AKMC

Ajyad Street P.O. Box 10056 Makkah 21955 Tel: +966 2 574 4401, Fax: +966 2 574 9422 Email: reservation@ akmc-alshohadahotel.com Website: www.alshohadahotel-akmc.com AL–HARITHYAH HOTEL Abu Obaida bin Al–Jarrah Road P.O.Box 7714 Madinah Tel: +966 4 820 6164 Fax: +966 4 820 6333 Email: [email protected] Website: www.alharithyah.com

70 / Saudi Voyager Autumn 2011

SOFITEL ELAF TAIBA Saad bin Moaz Road P.O. Box 7540 Madinah Tel: +966 4 818 0050, Fax: +966 4 818 0030 Email: [email protected] Website: www.elafgroup.com DAR AL-TAWHID INTERCONTINENETAL HOTEL Ibrahim Al–Khalil Street, P.O. Box 2728 Makkah Tel: +966 2 541 1111 Fax: +966 2 541 1112 Email: [email protected] Website: www.ihg.com ELAF AJYAD HOTEL Ajyad Main Road P.O. Box 3917 Makkah Al–Mukaramah Tel: +966 2 572 2200 Fax: +966 2 572 4043 Email: [email protected] Website: www.elafgroup.com

TAIF INTERCONTINENETAL HOTEL Hawiyah Street, Taif Tel: +966 2 750 5050, Fax: +966 2 750 5040 Email: [email protected] Website: www.intercontinental.com AWALIV INTERNATIONAL HOTEL Algaish Street P.O. Box 9933 Taif 21944 Tel: +966 2 737 5555 Fax: +966 2 737 3555 Email: [email protected] Website: www.awalivhotels.com MERCURE GRAND UMM ALQURA, MAKKAH Al–Masjid Al–Haram Rd end Hojoun Bridge P.O. Box 964 Makkah 21955 Tel: +966 2 570 2212, Fax: +966 2 574 4034 Email: [email protected] Website: www.mercure.com MAKKAH HILTON & TOWERS Ibrahim Al–Khalil Street, P.O. Box 844 Makkah Tel: +966 2 534 0000, Fax: +966 2 536 7500 Email: [email protected]


RAMADA HOTEL & SUITES

CARLTON AL-MOAIBED HOTEL, AL-KHOBAR Dammam Alkhobar Highway P.O. Box 1235 Al-Khobar 31952 Tel: +966 3 857 5455 Fax: +966 3 857 5443 Email: [email protected] Website: www.carltonalmoaibedhotel.com

DHAHRAN INTERNATIONAL HOTEL King Abdullah Airbase P.O. Box 32428 Agrabiah 31952 Tel: +966 3 330 5000 Fax: +966 3 330 5550 Email: [email protected] Website: www.dhahotel.com.sa

PARK INN HOTEL AL-KHOBAR

AL-JUBAIL INTERCONTINENETAL HOTEL

King Faisal bin Abdulaziz Road P.O. 2408 Al-Khobar 31952 Tel: +966 3 810 0800 Fax: +966 3 810 0600 Email: [email protected] Website: www.parkinn-al-khobar.com

Jubail Industrial Area P.O. Box 10167 Al–Jubai 31961 Tel: +966 3 341 7000 Fax: +966 3 341 2212 Email: [email protected] Website: www.ichotelsgroup.com/aljubail

E C N I V O R P N R E T S A E

Prince Majed Street P.O. Box 780 Al-Khobar 31952 Tel: +966 3 899 6111 Fax: +966 3 899 6777 Email: [email protected] Website: www.ramadaalkhobar.com HOLIDAY INN AL-KHOBAR Old Airport Road P.O. Box 31964 Al-Khobar 31952 Tel: +966 3 858 8000 Fax: +966 3 858 1266 Email: [email protected] Website: www.holidayinn.com

ABHA AND ASIR REGION DAR AL–HIJRA INTERCONTINENETAL HOTEL King Fahad St., Central Area P.O. Box 20201 Madinah Tel: +966 4 820 7777, Fax: +966 4 820 7788 Email: [email protected] DAR AL–IMAN INTERCONTINENE TAL HOTEL Off Sitteen Street, P.O. Box 20205, Madinah Tel: +966 4 820 6666, Fax: +966 4 820 6677 Email: [email protected] DAR AL-TAQWA, MADINAH Northern Central Area P.O. Box 20944, Madinah Tel: +966 4 829 1111 Tel: +966 4 829 0611 Email: [email protected] MADINAH HILTON HOTEL King Fahd Road Madinah 3936 Tel: +966 4 820 1000 Fax: +966 4 820 0557 Email: [email protected] Email: ww w.hilton.com

MADINAH OBEROI P.O. Box 1880 Abizar Road Madina Al–Munawara Tel: +966 4 828 2222 Fax: +966 4 828 2020 Email: [email protected] Website: www.madinahoberoi.com MAKKAH GRAND CORAL Al–Hapaya – Um Ul Qura Street P.O. Box 4384 Makkah Tel: +966 2 530 1234 Fax: +966 2 537 4055 Email: [email protected] Website: www.coralhotels.com.sa

ABHA INTERCONTINENETAL HOTEL Al–Souda P.O. Box 14447 Abha Tel: +966 7 224 7777 Fax: +966 7 224 4113 Website: www.ichotelsgroup.com ABHA PALACE HOTEL New Abha Resort P.O. Box 1100 Abha Tel: +966 7 229 4444 Fax: +966 7 229 5555 Email: [email protected] Website: www.abhapalace.com.sa MERCURE KHAMIS MUSHAYT P.O. Box 892 Khamis Mushayt Tel: +966 7 223 3466 Fax: +966 7 222 0828 Email: [email protected] Website: www.mercure.com


N O I G E R R I S A & A H B A

_INDUSTRY / MICE

Marketing communications sector gathers in Riyadh Saudi Arabia set to establish itself as an events hub for the marketing and communications industry

Saudi's capital Riyadh hosted a number of top-tier events this summer, focused on developments in the marketing communications industry. The three conferences, which headlined regional and international speakers, highlighted the Kingdom as one of the most attractive locations in the region for the marketing industry. The first of the three events was the second annual Arab Social Media Forum. Launched last year in Amman, the event is the Middle East's largest gathering of professional working in online and digital marketing. In its move to Riyadh, the forum was held under the auspices of Saudi Arabia’s Information and Culture Ministry and focused on how social media can be best used by marketers in


Saudi Arabia and outside of the Kingdom both for marketing and commercial communications. Two weeks later, global media and marketing services firm Mindshare held its first ever Media Summit in Riyadh. The conference brought together advertisers, marketing experts, ad agencies to discuss a broad agenda which covered topics from digital to outdoor advertising, print media and television. The summit was opened by Dr. Riyad Najm, assistant deputy minister at Saudi Arabia's Ministry of Culture and Information. In his opening address, Dr. Najm shared with the audience the country's plans to develop a regional radio and television industry in the Kingdom, as well as the aim of his ministry to support the development of

more content in the Kingdom. “While Saudi is the most important market in the region, much of the material broadcast in Saudi Arabia is developed outside of the country,” explained Dr. Najm. “ We’d like to see more material created here, to support our media sector and also to better reflect the culture and customs of Saudi Arabia.” Also staged was the Saudi Branding and Communications Summit 2011, which brought together communications specialists from the Middle East to raise awareness of communications as a discipline among Saudi-based companies. Over two days, international marketing managers from companies such as Nokia, Toyota amd Proctor and Gamble joined with Saudi-based practitioners, including the Saudi Commission for Tourism and Antiquities' vice president for marketing and media, Abdullah Al Jehani, to discuss a host of issues ranging from crisis communication to internal messaging, corporate social responsibility and how to reach out to youth through communications. In covering similar areas of interest, the three events drew attention to the potential the Kingdom holds for the marketing industry. Saudi Arabia, the largest audience and the greatest media spending market in the region, is well-positioned to become a regional hub for the MarComms and entertainment industries, stated one Saudi speaker. “You have to understand your market and communicate your company and product values so

that your audience relates with you and your products,” said Saudi communications and marketing consultant, Said Baaghil. “We’ve got to think less about the means of communicating and more about the substance of what we’re trying to say. There's no doubt that we've come a long way in terms of marketing as a discipline in Saudi Arabia. However, we still need more home-grown marketers, more people who understand how to communicate with an audience and culture they understand and know intimately as they have grown up with them,” Baaghil explained. With the relevance of the topic, the attractive local and regional audience, and growing industry, Saudi Arabia can expect to see increasing activities in this sector.

K C O T S R E T T U H S : E G A M I

_RECREATION / RIYADH SOUQS

Sights and sounds of the souq

Located at the center of historic trade routes, Riyadh has a fascinating crosssection of traditional markets. Jackie Leger outlines some worthy of a visit

W

andering through the souqs of Riyadh offers you a colorful journey. While meandering in and out of the maze of passageways, each lined with traditional old shops and stalls piled high with a variety of goods, visitors are provided with a glimpse back into the tradition and history of an almost bygone era. Modern life may have transformed shopping habits and driven shoppers into modern, air-conditioned malls, but these ancient outdoor markets, lined with simple stalls and a colorful range of wares, are still an appealing place to shop, barter, and discover another, more relaxed, side of life. Riyadh has been a center for commerce for many centuries. Diriyah, outside Riyadh, was the first Saudi state and a key trading point within the central Najd region, being well placed along the north–south caravan route and attracting itinerant traders who stopped over on route to Makkah. As a consequence, a market was established in the area hundreds of years ago and became a focal point at the center of the community. Markets were central to the local society, regardless of the size of the


population, and often evolved adjacent to mosques where people congregated for Friday prayers. After prayers, and at other times of the day, the souq became a hub for socializing, as well as a place to buy ingredients for the day’s meal, household items, or replacement tools. In old Diriyah, the early shops were mere mud brick alcoves, closed with decorative Najd doors. The market was enclosed within the old city walls and remained so until the 1930s when a new area, Bathaa-Jiri, was created as Riyadh expanded south around Musmak Fort, which today is Riyadh’s oldest building. Regrettably, Diriyah old town was razed i n 1818 1818 and today, the story of Riyadh’s souqs begins at Thumairi Gate. Suwayda Market, located south of Musmak Fort, has shops dating from the 1950s. The hawkers here sell vegetables, inexpensive household items, foods, and bric-a-brac. The sweet smell of roasted sugar peanuts permeates the air—a small bag costing just SR1.00 provides you with a smell and taste of traditional Arabia as you wander through the passageways. On the other side of Musmak Fort, visitors can find shops producing prayer beads known locally as Musbaha. The making of these personalized strings of beads is a popular local craft originating from the Al Madinah region. Each Musbaha has 33 or 99 beads, each used as an aide-memoire for an individual prayer and being made in a vast range of colors, materials, and textures. Instead of cheap plastic beads, the materials used by the talented craftsmen include bone, coral, amber, carved wood, and polished stone, turning the prayer beads from a functional item into a work of art. Crossing Thumairi Street, the multi-cultural Tourist Souq sells a range of inexpensive tourist trinkets. Carved


_RECREATION / RIYADH SOUQS

wooden camels, miniature painted holiday ornaments, metal ashtrays, and a variety of keyrings are in evidence. There are also handicrafts such as metal ornaments, coffee pots, and replica jewelry. Further up the street the Gold Souq can be found. Although there is a wide selection of readymade gold trinkets on display, the gold craftsmen here will also make personalized pieces of jewelry to order, with or without precious stones. They will also repair broken gold chains or reset precious stones in rings. The gold shops make way for many antique sellers who have, older, more traditional pieces of good quality and at affordable prices. But don’t be too proud to haggle. This is a pre-requisite of souq shopping, and you wouldn’t want to disappoint your trader would you? As a general rule, counter any initial price suggested by a shopkeeper with a counter offer of no more than half the asking price. A tall white and green clock tower near the souq acts as a striking landmark for another market, the Souq Al Adl, which is one of the most traditional markets in Riyadh. This market specializes in traditional Saudi male attire and there are a multitude of corner stalls and elegant shops. The Bisht, or cloak, is probably the most distinctive element of national dress. Custom requires men to wear a top covering over everything else when at a formal or public event. The Bisht is made of high-quality fabric with elegant gold braiding along the edge. Thobes, the standard white garment, and gutras, the red and white checked headscarves, are sold in numerous qualities and sizes. Lined up along shop walls you will also find an enormous assortment of sandals or N'aal, made of high-quality leather with embroidered stitching with no two pairs ever seeming the same. Continuing down the maze of passageways, you will find the most fascinating marketplace in Deira, the Antique Souq, which is a small covered plaza with pointed tent roofs and housing traditional Saudi handicrafts. There is a wide choice of stylishly painted Najd doors with aged locks, and shutters salvaged from the demolition of old mud houses stacked high.

Traditional Arab daggers, etched with engravings, or swords in leather scabbards are displayed aplenty. But the most traditional and recognized icon of Arab hospitality available here must be the Dallah, the traditional ornate Arab coffee pot. The pots can be bought individually, or as part of a set together with coffee-making utensils and small finjaan coffee cups in metal or china. But beware, if you plan to try making Arabic coffee at home, the process is more difficult than you think and you will need more than just coffee beans and cardamom! However, you will certainly find all the traditional coffeemaking accoutrements in the Antique Souq, including coffee grinders, charming leather coffee bean sacks and wooden bean boxes, brass mortar and pestles for grinding, bellows, roasting pans, and stirrers—everything that turns coffee-making into a ritual and an art. Nosing through the small rooms in the back of the shops may also turn up old musical instruments such as traditional drums or even a rare rubaba. For women, a wide selection of Bedouin jewelry made in silver, bone, and stone hang from pegboards. Braided silver belts decorated with small rosettes, wrist bracelets and armbands, earrings, and headbands have all their origins in the history of Saudi Arabia. Turquoise and coral necklaces, or classic silver neckpieces with amulets that open to hold verses of the Koran, are great display pieces. Silver beads can also be purchased by weight if you’d like to try your hand at creating your own pieces. To experience the exotic smells of the orient, the Incense Souq is a must. Fragrances play an important role in the lifestyle of the people of the Arabian Peninsula—while frankincense and myrrh are well known, oud is really the most valued commodity. Oud originates from agarwood harvested in Cambodia, India, Yemen, Oman, and the sub-continent. When burnt inside the home in small containers it gives off a unique perfume. The scented smoke, called bukoor, is used to perfume everything from the general home to clothing and even the hair. Incense burners can be bought in metal or wood decorated with traditional patterns or mirrored glass. Oud is also available as oud oil, which is a pungent perfume known for its medicinal properties and a scent that strengthens the body and mind. Continue down the walkways to the traditional Souq Zal or rug market. The vendors are well versed in the long tradition of rug-making from around the region, and the market provides an insight into one of the region’s oldest crafts—weaving. Rugs come in all qualities, sizes, and prices, and for the sharp-eyed, even ones with Saudi Bedouin origins can be found. Usually woven in strips for use as runners, wall decorations, or as flooring in tents, the rugs are made of goats’ or sheep’s wool dyed in the traditional colors of orange, burnt red, and black. For a contemporary city with many modern icons, Riyadh’s souqs can certainly provide visitors with a fascinating insight into a traditional lifestyle that has its origins dating back hundreds, if not thousands of years.

DON’T BE TOO PROUD TO HAGGLE. THIS IS A PRE-REQUISITE OF SOUQ BUYING,

AND YOU WOULDN’T WANT TO DISAPPOINT YOUR TRADER WOULD YOU?


_PEOPLE / DAY IN THE LIFE

From humble beginnings Starting out as a concierge at Riyadh’s Hotel Al Khozama, Mamdouh AlArafshah has built up an enviable career in the hospitality industry, spanning more than 25 years. He tells Saudi Voyager how he spends an average day Saudi national, Mamdouh AlArafshah started his working life as a bell-boy in the well-known Riyadh hotel, the Al Khozama, before working his way upwards through various positions until, in 2000, he was appointed to the position of Revenue Manager with the opening of Al Faisaliah Hotel, a sister property jointly managed by Rosewood Hotels

& Resorts and owned by the A l Khozama Management Company (AKMC). Later, he worked with the InterContinental Hotels Group for five years, developing his knowledge in the area of room reservations and sales, again working in several different positions within the hotel. He returned to AKMC in August 2009, taking up a position in the

Business Development Division that owns and manages properties in Riyadh, Makkah and Madinah. “I start my day with Fajjer prayers followed by a light breakfast along with my family before dropping the children at school on my way to the office,” says Al-Arafshah. “This routine helps ensure I get to the office punctually each morning,” he explains. 8:00am

“On arrival at the office the first thing to do is to review follow-up actions from the day before, and to make diary notes for any future follow-up actions required from the previous day’s activities. I also attend to any emails that may have come in overnight and respond to them appropriately.” 10:00am

“AKMC owns two hotels in Riyadh and also manages a 5star star hotel in the holy city of Makkah and we will shortly be managing two more hotels in Madinah,” states AlArafshah. “The Al Khozama Hotel, Madinah is scheduled to open in the last quarter of 2011 and the Al Faisaliah Hotel, Madinah is due to open in the second half of 2012. So we are all very busy working towards these new openings. It is an exciting time and as a member of the business development division I spend much of the morning sourcing leads for the new businesses and attending group meetings to discuss opportunities and how we can best manage these,” says Mamdouh. 1:00pm

“Around lunch time, I may be needed to meet with visitors to the company’s headquarters located in the Al Faisaliah Tower, or to conduct tours of the AKMC-owned

D E I L P P U S : E G A M I


facilities in Riyadh, which include Al Faisaliah Tower, Al Faisaliah Hotel, Hotel Al Khozama, and Al Faisaliah Mall,” explains Mamdouh. ”In between I manage to find myself a quick bite of lunch,” he says. Al-Arafshah’s responsibilities also include supporting the business at the AKMC-managed Al Shohada Hotel in Makkah from his base in Riyadh. So he schedules time to make regular promotional visits to potential business targets identified in Riyadh, and explains special packages and room rates available to them. In 2011, the AKMC-managed, Al Shohada Hotel in Makkah secured the Highly Commended trophy in the Best Domestic Hotel category of the inaugural “Saudi Excellence in Tourism Awards organized by the Saudi Commission for Tourism and Antiquities which, Mamdouh states “has contributed to my sales story when meeting clients.” The hotel has also received recognition at the World Travel Awards as the Leading Hotel in Makkah for the two consecutive years of 2010 and 2011. 4:30pm

“In the late afternoon when work is finished for the day, I sometimes go to the Saudi Equestrian Federation as I am a member of the panel of judges evaluating participants in jumping competitions. “I start to wind up my day at around 7pm when I get home to spend time with the family and to help the children with their homework,” says Al-Arafshah. “The hospitality industry has given me a good career with the opportunity to meet lots of interesting people and I am pleased to be playing a role in the development of the Kingdom’s tourism industry,” Mamdouh concludes.

Saudi Arabia _Voyager

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