NO. 31
NOTES FROM THE SHOP
$2.50
PROJECTS: • ADJUSTABLE DESK • ROLL-AROUND CADDY • TVVO-TRAY IN/OUT BOX
A BUYER'S GUIDE: WHICH ROUTER IS gEST?
Wcodsmith Number
Jan/Feb, 1984
31
Editor DonaJd 9. Peschke esslgn Director Ted Kralloek Assistant Editors Sieve Krohmet Michael P. Scott
AsslstaQI An D1reC1or Kay Mulder
r echnfcal Illustrators Oavid Kreyling
Mike Henry
SUbscription Manager Sandy J.
aeem
Subscription ASSistants Christel Miner
Vicky Robinson Jackie Stroud Shirley Fe11man Ann Williams
Compule, Oper'alloo1$ Ken Miner
Circulation Manager Jeff Far'l'ls
AdminIStrative Asslstant Cheryl SOOIf
Building Ma1ntenanOQ Archlo Krause (ISSN 0164-4114) Is published bfmonlhly (January, Maroh. May, July. Sep· tember, November) by Woodsmith Pubfishing WDDDSMITH
Col' 2200 Grand Ave" Des Moif\_9~.lowa503 t2. WOOOSMlT'H is- a registered trademark or tl"le Woodsmilh Publishing Co.
ye.r (6Issue§) $10. Two yeals (12 iSSU.5) $18. Single copy price. 52:50 (Canadaand Foreign:~dd 52 per y.ar.) Change Of Address: Please tie sure 10Include both your old and new add(ess and a' maifil19
label from a racen1 issue. Second class postage pald at Des Moines.
Iowa.
Sawdust eluding this envelope is to provide an easy way to let- us snow of any problems you may have with your subscription. If you haven't received an issue, or ifi1!s torn or damaged. or if your name is misspelled on the label, or if you've changed your address .. , if there's auy problem ali all, please let U$ know, We want-to provide the best service we can. If there's a problem, just let us know and we'll fix it. NE\" F..\CES. Ann 'Villiams has just. joined the Jl(ood~mi1k group to help with all of the problems ljust mentioned. Uyou happen to call US, Ann's voice is probably the first one you'll bear. .PUULlsuelt'S S'rA·rE~lf;NT. Ever)' year in the J anuary/February issue of lVoodsmit,. we're required bl' the Post Office to 1>1:il1t. the Publisher's Statement shown below. Last year this statement showed ow' circulatlon at about 74:.000. This year ,vc've grown a bil- to over 151,000. Although numbers are nice, I always try to keep lit mind what, the)! really mean. When I'm working on a project 01' article for Wood.'IIIitlt, I like to think that I'm working' for 150,000 friends who enjoy woodworking. That's the only way .l cal' make any sense out of the numbers thau
Altom THIS Issue. Two of the projects in
(Jr
this issue were kinel exciting to build. Not because of the projects themselves, but beeause of the [oinery technique used to build them. The joint we used is a dovetail tongue and groove - but not your typical dovetail tongue and groove. The adjustable desk (shown on page 4) uses a slitlillg version of this joint .in the leg,.. What fascinates me about this applicaLion ts that the IOlts (and tit. joint) nave to be stu"ly enough to support the desk tOI>, yet the joint also h as to be flexible enough to slide up and down to change the height of the desk top. \Ve used-another version of the dovetail tongue and groove on the infout.. box (shown on Rage 12). This time a dovetail key took the place. of the dovetail tongue. AJ}(l 01100 again. it had to serve two pur",
poses. 'Phe ~e~''\'3S, in part, a decorative bandingstnp. but it also served as a corner joint to hold the t••ys together. It's not often ajointhas to be so versatile - but it was fun to "put it through its paces" for the projects in this issue. INllEX. You may notice that this Issue is a little thickel' than usual. That's because
we've include-d a special four-page index 'to all the articles. projects, and information shown in the first 30 issues of lVoQdsmitil. I hope it. makes tin(iitlg information in the
seem to grow so fast.
back issues
a more timely schedule for mailing out (he issues. The next issue (,\Voodsnlitlt No. 32) will be.in the mail during the week of AIII'il lOth. (Since it's mailed second el asss postage, please allow \;'\'0 weeks for delivery.) Again, thank you for your patience.
(1
N&XT lIAILING. Along
little. easier.
S~",,'EI_.()'pE. We've .also inserted an en-
velope in this issu e. Fe.1 fr."" to usc it to
renew you)" subscription,
order a gif't...sub.-
for a flielld, 01' order back issues. But the most important l'eaS011for in-
~C:liption
STATEMENT OF OIVNERSHIP, MANAGElMENT AND ClIlCUI.ATION (RtqlllM 1.1)' a9 0.$,(:. 31*.) 1,Tlt!.. ~f~btIt.lotlOrn! \\'~JI. 111. PubUcaUon N~: 01t$1-l114. !!. l>.1l e of tll1n~(.>dbbc, I, 19S1.(I, ..~ftq~QrUMI~O!.lllly. 311.XQ, Ilf11"i'lI(!1f:t.1lnl»1lf.f!tttt). ~b. ~,.ntW lUl.~(II.rl)Q ~~ $10,00.~. ComqI)(!tl! uWlilljt IlIfdmlorkDIJ"..., otrlCt' af IlUbllnttion!: '22OOtir.lld A\~~. tJre.\ )((,1""". (Potit CoOCI"'cy1.Ifl.......r"oo;I\t ~ CqmPll.·t.(!ngllllljt iId~(lfthil ~'od"r...rt.._'ftilf1;(Onenl bu:dM:.lo oITK"C'Wo1' lhl.!pI,l"l~r.:2200 CrtllIl j\'·('I'W.(k',\( ~1(lll1f11.JII'II:IL:-(l31!.•. C"",pk1;".lldl\·4$"rJlnbli~, I'di'l~, and naN:ci1ltC ed,l1>l'f'l Nbl;..b<+r: ~ B. -P~(" 22OO(;r.\nd A\~I\J", tIrcI ).I~~ (OwfI;$Q;Jlt. P.d;!tor:(:QI1If'ftIlpol,)ti;otMrJ,. ~Gl'aI1Il A\'cl)I;I(>.~ Mill., 10"" S(Olt: 'niOOd(lrt "I. KRIlmk. tll») ~rillII.IA\'t1I1It".Ot..)lofMII,10.....qroi!. it K0MI11btI~ho!d¢",- IlIl!rtWctfJ ~1 {WI' M(Uril)' ho1del'lCo"'11iA.~ 1 f*ft+.lIlur ll¥.o1'I:o(to,*I~1l1 {Irb<:
Postmaatt!t: Send ch~llQo of addl8:;:S notfce. POfm3519. to Woodsmlth PubliShing Co., 2200
A \'V~ I'lItb ~
A Ils.l QI the eonlenl. 01 Sll bac~ issue. awe"", on the wrapper 01 lhis issue. h \h8 \-vtaRper is missing. you can send for a bookie! describIng the cont~l$ ~ndprices of all baCk issues. SAMPLE SDPIES
If YOU'have a mend who would like (0 see 8 copy OfWood.smlth, lust send Ih&nameand address. aJ1dwe'lI send a sample. (at nOleost).
2
C'Ojo',t,. iJurf:q:
110.
,~fUlft
Grand Ave •• Des Moin&s, 10'Na5031,2. BACK ISSUES
with. the growth,
we've also experienced some growing pains. W. are doing our' best to get back on
1:l JfIIlllths
ActUIII no.. ct1I'f8 (O( Iinptla.'6e lluNi~D¢,.~t !(I ~ cb,~"
(~.
A. l1'otllJ
M._
«I~JlrilIwd~~t preM Nnl •••••••••.•.•
h, f'a.ld ClrtubU:(I1I 1. Salt>... tht'llUlIb t,St..,lr·,.,III'J!1(Sqillrt.
-.n,r (CI\tM'"
6111:10
2. )1J,1I~~~
WnlIOD'
~
•~.....
•
f •••
~. •
•••••••••••••
O. Totaiprald('jn'llb.lioll{ScJ!!I{I(I08111111l1()~ ••••• ; D. ~"nfti.dl»nDuiJ.;xI \I)' nWl;
Amp&ri.
l'(ICfIPti~. lind 11t~..e1'fi'('(' «Ii'!1h!
!~ribI.rtiuJl.Sumor C lind n) .~•... , ... ~••,,,
~
'I''l(al
J:'.
Ct>JIkf bOt dj,tribatM I Otll
O\'l!r, nM("('o)'~1I1~od,..poI1~I ..fttT
'"' ' ' 'II
lk Rq(III'ft' I'mm ~nt,. " • .. C, 1'<4ld (&1m u( ~'I .ftd f.""i, I J, 1('l'I1if)~lI'atlIM-*"a~lll('C)~ n•• b)' ~
e.
.. • . •
1!lS1)
Ij(l,IS;i
,
-:I,lf(i
.
•
Ifi.S&fi
.
Ifll.OOS
,~•••..
, -.
.. •• ' •••• ~
, •• .....
•.. _••,.
pdntltl,l •.• , , •. ••, •••• •.• .. •• ',. .. , .. ..
lI'bov~aN ~t
,"
.
1al.()96
1l.":SI 1~
~ 1;l:t.6~ IUId~1lIIP!(ote. (fi~ I [lonalel D. I~ko:.
11t$1 !it! I'W.l~ 1~~Ut,.Ol'
V(OOOSMITli
T_i~s& Technigu_e_s __
__ CUnlNG
RADIAL ARM DENTIL
Arter reading how to cut dentil (using the table saw) for the Curio Cabine~ in Woo,£' ,mill, No. 26, r decidecl to come up with a method that would also work on my radial
arm saw. Using my method, ehe first step is to attach a (ence to the saw that's slightly higher than the Ihickness of the dentil itself. Then make a shallow cut through the fence wtrh a "ado bladesel-oo cut a !to' ~erf. Finally, m'!Oka pointon the renee \4" to the
REVISED ROUTER TABLE
1 changed the material used for the top surface of your router table- it may be of SOmehelp to your readers. 1used "". cabinet grade 7-ply exterior plyweod that has t\VO extremely thin layers of plastic adhered on both races. This material is ccmrnenly known as MOO (Medium Density Ov~rlll.v). USing
this material sa ved me the Lime and trouble of bonding a separate piece of Masonite to the surface. And since the color of the surface is fairly light, penciled stop lines re~lIy stand out.
Bob Framci« ,11i1l"01•. To.ta. GLUING
As I
WaS
Stereo
Cabinet in l~/(Xxls))I,ilII.No, ]7. everything
was ~ing according to plan until I dry clamped tlie case together to spot any problems (before it's too late). len ofthe dado, and additional marks in %' increments for 4 OJ' 5 inches aloJlg the length of the rence. Afler adjusting the deplh of cut on a scrap piece, make ~he firsLcuLon the workpiece. Then line up the right shoulder of the dado with the first line, and make the seoond dado cut. Each successive cut is made by srmply lining up the .ight Shoulder of each dado with tile penciled marks on t~e fence as shown. Because "lining up" the cuts with the marks is an ey~-ball procedure, il
works beet if you line up as malty lines as possible for each cut.
Sf.elJe emmIT/ton
WI<.e«tRidge, Colorado DISC SANDERS FOR SHARPENING
TOOLS
I've been re~ding Ihe lI'ood811tith back
issues, anti came across your areicle on sharpening' in II'q()(lsmith No. 20. But [ was disappointed because tbe article didn't mention m~favorite method of sharpcuing: u.sing a vertical 8" disc sander freehand (with no tool rest). One thing that makes this method work so well is that you can sight down the race of the plate to assure that the bevel is in constant, contact- with the disc. All(1 I've been par~icularly pleased with the results achieved when llSiJlg this method for sharpening lathe tools.
Ed'IXl'ti llosen/eld Gu1'ley, Alaba,,,a
WOODSMITH
-rl s·
DEEP CABINETS
building the Tambour
careful I am, the height is never quite righL J l,hink I've fill'llly come up with the answerto Illy problem. I designed a quick and easy jig Ihat uses a Sliding dovetail joint. To use fhe jig, the ftoating block is 1>05ilionedOn top of the blade (or bit) $0 it can ride up and down the base as the depth or cut is adjusted. The key to this system is to be sure that lhe'block is free floatulg, so it \\'ill adjllst to even the ,;Iigbtes 1ehange in the position of the blade. WAX OO\lETAlll0t~ fOR ROAllNG EfK SASE,.~."
"A
I~ _;_\;~
1
1 To make the jig slide easily, r used the Bosch \4" dovetail glue joint bit (see Source. on l'age24). This bit is .a little different than a normal dovetail bit - it produces squared off COI'l1Ol'S on the dovetail. This squared corner keeps the two halves from catching as they slide back and forth. And with the addition of a good coat of'wax, the sliding block ,,;11 truly "Iloat," To keep the sharp edges on the top edge
of the carbide ..tipped router bilS (rom cutAs in the past, r found that simply positioning clamps on the fron~and back edges of the cabinet sides won't pull the center of the cabinet sides tight against the shelf (0.' web frame). This seems to be • problem ever>' time I use plywood foal cabinet
construction.
ting into the sliding block, I glued a small piece of plastic laminate (Formica) to the bottom face of the block, To calibrate thejijf, I rabbeted the edge of the base and attached a brass scale Off an old wooden folding rule. I also positioned the rule I" above the bottom edge or the base to make It easier to read, Then mark a pointer on the sliding block so that it corresponds with the exact height settings 'on the brass scale.
The best method 1\,.found to .keep the center of the panel snug against the shelves is to use a clamping board that has a convex edge. By positioning the convex Kenneth Gyldclwa1la. face against the side of the cabinet (di· rectly IIcrOsSfrom the shell), and clamllillg Des ilfoi-~le8.Imoa. only the ends of the board, constant pres- 1----------------1 SEND IN YOUR IDEAS sure can be applied against the eentler of the cabinet side. I----------------i CI,,'u, Stu.rt.
J\1u11ieca, Cali/arniCA DOVETAIL GAUGE
I've a!\V;_1"Yshad a hard time tJ'lfing to use a ruler to set the height of a blade 011 Lbe table saw, or the height of a bit on the router
table, It. seems.that no matter
how
If you!d liRe to share a woodwori
Woodsmllh, Tips & Technique., 22tlO Grand Ave" Des Motncs, Iowa 50312 W~pay a minimum oJ S 10 for Ifps. and $15 or more fOf specfat techniques (thet ace accepted for'J)ubltcalion). I?lease give e complete exptaneIlcii1 01 yotJrkfea. If • sj
3
___
A_djustable Desk A DESK FOR ALL SIZES
Mostofthe time whenwe setout to build a piece of furniture, we try to build it to a standard size. Tab1es- and desks, fot' exam})le, are supposed to be 29" high. But the problem with standard-size furniture is that people don't come in standard sizesespeeially kids. We wanted to build a desk that would
as the pCJ'S011 grew. The solution was to make the height of the desk adjustable. To do this, we decided to use a sliding hg1'O\V"
dovetail joint on the desk's leg assembly (shown in the detail photo, below I.ft.).
This way l,he whole desktop can be raised to suit the person using it. While we were at it, we also decided to make the desk top adjustable. That is, provide a way so the lop coul~ be lilted up for coloring (or draftlhg woodworkirig plans), but also so it could be laid nat for doing homework (or paying bills). To accoml>tish this requirement, the top or t.he desk is h,inged on a "rachet' frame that can be raised in merements (shown in the detail photo, below right). It became quite a design challenge to get these two adjusl.ablefeatures to work, and not interfere with each other. But once the design was worked out. the fun of building the desk could begin. r started with the desk top assembly. This consists of a web frame that supp<>rtsthe solid o""end caps, the tilting desk top, and the drawers. THE WEB FRAME The key to this whole desk top assembly is the center web Irame. All the other parts are attached 00 it. I built the web frame by cutting two long rails (A) and fOUl' stiles (8) 10size, see Fig. I. First, cut the rails to-a length of 48%" and the stiles to a length of 17%11. Then rip all six of these. pieces to a common width of 21/,1"'. JQINERY,
These six I)ieee.'; are joined
with stub tenons and'grooves, see Detail in Fig. J. To make these joints, cut. V.<-\\ide by 1f5"~deepgroove centered on the inside edge of each piece. Then CUt stuh tenons on
the ends of the foul' stiles to filtthe grooves. (For more information on this l)'pe ofjojnery, see lVoodsmiU, No. 29.) Next, Y.'cNMasonne panels are added to the outside two upenings in the web frame. (These outside I>Al)ei$ COVe.!' the areas above the drawers. The middle opening does not have a. )>anel because it has to 00 open to allow space for the "rachel" frame used to tilL the desk top up.) PJ\NEJ.s.
To ge.t the measurements for tl\e
L\VO
panel", dry-assemble ~he rrame so the two inside stiles ure lOr,' f"om the outside
4
stiles, sec Fig. 2. (This should leave an 18"
opening between the l \\'0 inside stiles.) Then cub V,," ~lasonite panels to fit the groove ..to-groove measurements in the frame.
After these panels are cut, glue and clamp th~ frame together (gluing the panels in the frame openings). END CAPS AND APRONS
'I'he basic desk 101' is formed by adding solid oakcaps to the ends of the web frame, ami 'I""US along the front and back edges, ref." to Fig. 4. €SO (:;\PS, Tlle two end caps (J) are cut
from 5/4 stock (lV,.·-thick) so theY"'e 2.1!(,' long and &~"wide, Then two Y-t""-\\';
To.rout the first groove
I
clamp on a fence to guide the router 10cut a groove I,," fi'om the top eage of the cap, sec Fig, 3. (Note: This groove is positioned to allow for the thickness of the web frame plus the thickness ofthedesk top, which is
added 10«>1'.)
Y.
Mark the start and Stop points for this groove I from the (ront and back edges of the cap. ('l'he disw.nee between these
WOODSMITH.
two marks should equal lb. width of the web frame. plus 14-.) Then plunge the router in a~ the start point and rout to the stop mark. The second groove 0\1 t.he end caps starts at the bottom edge of the cap and stops in the horizontal groove, HO\VeVel', to ensure the grooves en both caps arc in-exactly the sameposluon. I clamped the caps together (bottom edge to bottom edge) and routed
one groove across both pieces. Again, use a fence to Il:',ide the router, see Pig. 3. FRONT AND BACK APRONS
Af"tcz'the grooves
aJ.'C-
routed on the end
caps. Ihe front and back aprons (C and D) are cut to size, The width of'the-baek apron is \'1". and t·he width of the front, apron is I~-. 80th aprons are cui, to length to equal the length of the web frame. IIOUT' GltOOVt-;5. Te attach the aprons to
FIGUAFl
v
JO"VIE~
I.-
i--
--
the web frame. a v..~··\\·idegl'OQVC is routed on the inside face of each apron. Thi~ groove js positioned so the distance to the bottom edge of the groove is equal to t,he thickness of the web frame, see Fig. 5. (If
the groove is in this position, the top or the web frame will be flush with the top edge of the apron when these pieces are assembted.)
241(,Q)IENOS- CUT MOMS}" (111'••·, SJ()(!'I(
,
ROUT TONGUES
-1!4· STOP
GltooVE
Aner the grooves are cut in the end caps
, .3~'."
and the aprons, rabbets arc cut. Ql1 all four ed~s of the web frame. These rabbets actually produce tongues to fit the grooves in the caps and aprons. sea Fig. 6. r used a route" (band-held) with a rabbeting bit and pilot to rout these rabbets. It's best 1.0 sneak up on the: depth of cut. of lhe rabbets. \'1ith each successively deeper pass, check the filofthe tongues in the grooves. They should lit snugly. ,I]'O:SGUES ON' APJtON. Next, set up the router table to rout rabbets on the encl. of the back apron (D). Again. th,e rabbets are cut to form tongues to fiL the ve''tical
grooves in the ends cap, see Fig. 6. A.fu!r the tongues are cut. they have to be.trimmed to fit the height-or the vertical groove. Simply trim oft the top section of the tongue above the groove, see Steps 2 and 3 in Fig. 6. 'l'ltl.\J .'RONT ~\rRON TO LENGTJ~.The front apron (C) docs not have tongues on the ends. Instead, it's trimmed to final length to match the shoulder-to-shoulder length of the web frame, refer to l"ig. '1. ASSEMBLY
lit tile grooves, round the four comers ofihe end ",.p~ to a o/!" radius, (I di
Then round over the outside edges of the end caps with a y,," rounding-over bit. ASSE'''IlLY. Finally, the e"d caps and aprons call be glued and clamped to the edge. or the web frame. WOODSMITH
STOPGROOVl ~
-,
/
j r
-"
'I.
.
"'_~/i"GROOVf, ""- OEIEP
FOIWEe ~E
~ ~~~ .. ~ ~
CLAMP """'_BOTTOM
USf ROUTER ANO f~C.E TO CUT GROOVE
(OG£l5 JOGElNESt
WE8 FRAME
,r seees
II:OUND O""(R All Of ENOS WITH '/4" COJlNl:ft [lOU~O
E. _leV,
f--
AUGH TOP OF WEB FRAME WtTH TOP OF APJlON
y,-t--
~, r;.~·lr.~.I·:t,-0..<:~ ~.}/
~
-- ltl ~
14.v}~r!'NO:7 .. ~./n ~.
APII:0N
RAfl.8'ET 80TH ENDS TO PJtQDUC.E V.·,LONG rONOOf; v,." ntlCK
rONGUf ON ,vIN51 •• IACE
3
5
f.lGut 7
1 T
.' RADIUS
-~_.--
THE TRESTLE LEG ASSEMBLY
•
....
•
II' ,
I •
• • •
16'h'
.J
OOV",.I" 0R90VE O~J~_I!
-
-
s' •
-
IOUNOovtt OUr~O[ (OGIS WITH' .' COtNtt lOUNO I,r
'",' 00VItA1\ III )',
r
'if~~ 1'"-
~ •t
.J I
__ ._
--
CUT OOVf1An KEY TO feT OOVETAlt GlOOVIi ON UPRIGH'
16',.,-
l
HAlF LAP Of tAil
ft
CItO$$ Sl(1'ION
\ 0:> CUT 0f9tH Of H411 lAI' RUSH wtTH DEPTH Of' oovttAn
I,,,
...
DOVfTAll
r
OIAWtl GUIOf ClOSS SleTKIN
,..;..., , ,.
10' , Off'TH OF NOTCH EQUALS f.. tCtlHfSS...
1~,·
__
clIfOIt/lWEIt tUNNElS TO fir SNUGO\Y flfTWffH fRONT AND BACK APRONS
1
10) IACI( A'ItON ,
4'\-..·
The desk tOP i. mounted to a trestle leg assembly which can be adjusted in height by means of • ,Iiding dovetail, ~PRIGHT ,,~l) tUSE. To build the 1"1:>. I started with the uprights (Kland the hoses (Ll, see rig. 7. Cutthe uprights 10size and locale the po.ition for the dowel holes. (Later. pegs are inserted in the se holes as stops to hold the de.k at the height you want.) 0,,11 the V," dowel holes y,' deep, spaCing them 1loft'" apart, as shown in ~"'ig. 7. (It'S best to USC" Forstner bit to drill flat-bouomed holes.) JOII("ln·. To join the upright to the base. out a mortise in the base, see Detail in }'ig. 8. a]1(1then CULIImatching tenon 011 the end of the upright. OO"RTAt~ CROO'·E. Befol'" joining the UprighLand base together. a wide dovetail groove is rout(od on the inside face of the upright. tThi.I(I'oO'·' will hold the sliding' dovetail key.) I routed thi~ grocve on the router table, starting \\ith a 4'." I'.itraight bit to clear out most orthe waste .see rig. 9. Set thefence on the router IlIble to cut" I(I'oOvece ..I.rtd on the width of the uplight. The bottom (depth) of this ltl'Ooveshould be flush "ilh the face of the tenon. Move the fence lind milk. 1'.,;$•• on both sides of the center groove, until It.'s 2¥.0' wide, Then 6\vil.eh to n ~" dovetail bit to I'OUL l.he half·dovN:lil profile on the outside edges so the final width (from point to point) i.3'Y,o·. ROt,);Jlerx.es. Aftet· the dovetail groove is rout.ed. glue and claml' the upright and base together. Then CUta 0/,.' radius on all eerne rs, and round over the edges with • Y," rounding-ever bit. -ee ~'ig. 10. O()\'ETAIL !iF-V. Next. a large sliding dovetail key (F) is cut to fit the dovetail groove in the upri!!ht. Cut this key 1(,.wider than the "~(Ie~ldimension or the groove. Then rout the h31f-do"etail profile on both edges of the key. sneaking up on these cuts until tho k"y slides smoothly in the groove, see fill. 1I. The top end orthi. key is attached to the end ca ps on the desk tOil ass embly, To do this. cut" halr.lap to the depLh of the dovetail lit tho top MU,e key. AILet·it's cut. the shoulder of the half lap should rest firmly on the bottom edge of the elld cap. and the top end should butt .gains~ the bottem oft.he web frame, refer 00Figs. 12 and 13. DRAWER RUNNERS
c , f«ON' A"ItOH
-
-------s.·.. --
B.fON; attaching the leg assemblies to the desk top. the drawer runners (C) have to be eut. The-e runners serve t\\'O purposes: they support and guid~ the drawers, and the l\\IO outside runners also support the dovetail key. This was th~ biggest design problem we WOODSMITH
had with this-desk. Th.e large dovetail keys (that ride in the uprights) bad to sUllllOrl lhe entire desk top assembly. Since lhe weight of tbe desk top is not centered on the legs, there is bound to be an undue amount of racking pressure. To solve this problem, we built the drawer runners around the keys to support them and prevent racking.
'The drawer runners are cut lo/ir." wide 31Id long enough to fit OR.\,\\'Elt RUNNERS.
tight between the front and back apron,
see Fig. 12.Then %"..wide gJ'QO\'~Sate cut
y,.'
from the bottom edge of each runner. (These groove. will interlock with gl·OO\[es on the drawer sides.) After 811four runners are cut. the t.\\IO outside runners also have wide notches cut in them 10 male with the half lap on the dovetail key, see Fig. J3. (1 cut these notches on the table saw, making multiple passes to clean out the waste.) Then screw the outside two drawer runners to the 0n(1 caps. countersinking and screwing through the grooves, see Fig. 13. ,,$SEam).Y. To mount the dovetail key,
*'"
'i''lount. the dovetailkey itt the notch in the runners and mark the position of the two pilot boles in the end cal). Remove ohe key and drill %" holes, %" deep 'in the end cap for threaded inserts, (Threaded inserts are used here so the keys can be mounted and removed to complete the construction of the trelitre leg assembly.) To mount the two inside runners, drill countersink hole. through the top of Ihe web frame and into the runners. then screw the runners in place, see Fig. lil,
f -tS"
0:-
..
I
1~
HOLE fOR G
MORTIS£,;
t
....L
,7
~
.,0
(!)
1-.,-- -''''-~
FIGURE 1
W DEEP
,
,<>
HOLES FOR
OOVElAtllCty SHOULD $UOE AlEflY
fiGURE 17
TRESTLE ASSEMBLY
@
To complete the trestle leg assembly, • stretcher (E) is added between the two sliding dovetail keys. Measure the disranee between the keys to get the length of the stretcher. (Make sure the keys are
FIlOjoIT ~'~()N
®.
.
&ACXAPJl:ON PANEL
(j)
exactly perpendicular when this mea-
END CAP
surement is taken.) 1'hen add 1Y,' to this measurement to aJIO\\Ifor the t\VO %" ..long tenons on each end of the stretcher, JOINERY.Cut thestl .. tcher to length and
sra£teHEJI:
width, Then cut %"-deep slol! mortises in the keys, and cut matching tenons 011 the ends of the stJ.. tcher, See Fig. J6. Also, (hill a y,' hole in the dovetail key for the pog that's used to adjust the height of the desk. (To make this peg, I chucked a 14"dowel in the drill press and used a file to "carve" a knob on the end of the peg, see Detail in Fig. i6.) AliSE"UbY.F,nally, mount the stretcher between the dovetail keys to make su re it'. the .ightlength (so the legs don't splay in or cut). lJ this cheeks out, glue and clamp
$l@gSiHfR
DETAil
ROUND OVER TfNON TO m SlOT MOStTIS!
I/.~eORNESt flOUND
the stretcher intothe mortises in the keys. WOODS~.lJTH
7
"GUO. 1_'
-
,.._.,
13',11
.--
'.I ir---- -'.
10 OITEJlMIN( WlOTH 0'
DRAWl.,
~
0100'11$
•
Ill]
- .iT
wla FRAME
.
I, '.
~
;
'..::J FRONT APRON
,.I--t-f..,r.-'---:-:.::._----rT-,~--I
Olf' ,
MEA$UItl'OlirAHCf tOWIIN A.NO SUltlACl '.
'<'
Q}~Y{"~YNN' •• !!All
.UNNI.
tJ~. 1-
'0) O!tAWljII
t
.... Wlt" SIOf
L....
(,_.IL,~ ~.
',.
<,'
I
.,.
I,~
I',
• _~-I
""!-r~ ,
ALthiS point the d~$k is almo.t complete. All that's needed are the drawer" and the desk top. I started with the drawer •. ORA\vtk fRO_'iT.
To get the
mC3I'UI'C"
mems for the drawer front (H). measure
the distance between the t)utsidt lodgel'!of
1'.~ , .]\( 1~1o·
Ir~'Of"
THE DRAWE~S
,
•
•
•• ' MASOHITl DRAWl' aonOM RGlJItE 18
, the runn ers, see Fig. 17. Then cut the drawer front to mi. length. and to a width of3~·. D.... WER SID~ I u>'cd dovetail tongue and groove joints to assemble the drawer sides (P) and back (Ql. (A detailed d.....,ripbon ef this type ofjoinery;'; gh-en on page
on the inside face or the drawer fronts \0 attach
the drawer
sides. The dovetail $0 "'hen the drawer sides are attached. the distance between the olC,ttide faces of the drawer sides is Vtll" less than the distance bet ween the botto",~ of the grooves on the drawer runnel'S. see Fig. 17. After the dovetail grooves are eut on I he drawer front, cut the (iJ"a\\I4l1' sides to tIoite. Then cut y," grooves on the outside faces of the drawer sides to mate "lith the long-tieR
grooves are posltioned
,,'
i-..
....
_
'IQU" ,.
on the runners, see Fig. 17.
I ""'." I
BACK ANIl UOTIO~t.
DISTANCI!TO BOnOM OF GAOOVE (QUAlS
lH!C!I(NfSS OF 'ARTICLE 10.10
"'''~.
,
PlUS fORMK:A
..J -------....,.,,dl_,_ 'lY."
:.....::=:=::;;&;;:=~T fi '." O.OO\lf, '. 01('
10' "
After the side. are
cut,joiil the back between them \vith dovetail tongue and groove joints, unci CUl the
,
Masonite bottom to slse, see FiJi. J8. DRAWI-:tIIlANDL~, Before assembllng thc drawers, I made a notched "handle" on the drawer fronts, see fig. 19. Cut out the notch and smooth the edgeswith u ~(\nding drum on the drill )rCI:iS. rfhen cut n :YII" radius on the four corners of the drnwer front, and round overall theedge8 with a Yo'
rounding over bit. i'-"iSE~IULY. No\\·the drawers can be
;tg ..
sembled and mounted to the runners,
('Ur STUa 'IHON TO 'IT ClOOVt -
THE DESK TOP
After me drawers are installed. Ihe desk
top is built. The top consists or a particle board panel with formica laminated to it.
@fORMKA
8
and an oak frame around me edges. FRAME. I started by building Ihe" J o.1k frame. The rails (~1)and stiles eN) for Ihi. frame are ripped to a width of 2't.·. _ Fig. 21. as for me length of lhese pieees. metre wI to fil me desk top a..,,-~mbly. (This assembly consist>, of the web frame. end caps. and aprons, ref er to f'iSt. 17.) The top frame's rails (M) are cut to length so metre y.' It'" than the dlstanee between me end caps (J). Then the .til es (N) are cut to length so when Ihe f"ame" assembled me size from front to back is 1v,'/a'l'lqr man the web frame and aprons. see Fig. 21. f"O(l)IICA I)A.sEL. Before culling the joinLS to a•• emble this frame, I made the Formica panel insert. 1'0 do this. laminate a piece of Formica (I used dark henna. \VOOI)SM1T~1
#935) to a piece of%" particle board that's cut to a rough size of 21" x 45". -ApJ)ly a coat of contact cement, to both the Formica and the particle board. When the cement is dry to the touch. lay dowel rods over the particle board and put the Formica on top of the dowels, see r'ig. 22, Then slowly pull the dowels out, and press the F ormica in place. GROOVES. This laminated panel is used to locate the position of the V"'-wide by 'Yo"·deepgrooves on tbe inside edges of the foul' framemembers, The bottom edges of these grooves should align with the bottom of the J>ru~icleboard panel, see P'i\,:' 20. After the grooves are cut, cut *tub tenons on the ends of the stiles (N) to fit light in the grooves, see Fig. 2]. TONCUES. Dry-assemble the f"ame members to get the measurements for the panel, and cut the: panel to this final size. Next, "out rabbets on the edges of the Formica panel to create tongues that lit tight in the greoves, see F·ig. 22. (Sneak up on the depth of these ra bbets so the tongues fit snuglyin the grooves.) ,\55£"OL Y. Before final assembly of the frame, I routed a pencil groove on the·face of the back rail of the frame, see Fig. 23. Then glue and clamp the n.. me members to the edge. of the panel. Aft.1' the desk top frame is assembled, it's mounted to the web frame with IJh" hinges, see r'ig. 24.l'osltion the front.edge of the desk top sc it's Ilush with the fronts of'the drawers. refer tol'ig. 27. 'Phen i:out
fIGUru: 23
y,- ..
FtRST ROU) CENTER WItH -\'t" STIIAlGKT BIT
a",4'!!,'l!Jf:;:;;:;; fI' _~ ,y."
\
PENClt G~OOVIi
fLUSH
\
KNUCklE ClNfEII:(,D
{
ON (RONT (,OGt ~
I"
\
I.l
~-
r''''~\
I";" HINCt
MOUNtED ON lO"
SECOND ROUT EDGES WITH .,," C;:O~EBOX BIT
I.
~ ~
ROUSIE 2"
fi UNI:'E!-'U""''''''Il"o,!, ..~/J SHOUlDE·RS Of. GROOVE -GROOVE- $I'UNS END1'O END
fiGURE 25
"
r.} ,
I.ii:. L"
,<~,
.','
CUT MORTISf ro ~~'~"-._/
THICKNESS OFHU~GE /ON WE' FJlAME .--./'
.7
l --.., END C:AP
_r_
FIGU'E 26
Ih~OOWEl
I~
KEEP FRAME SQUARE
0
~~1 J,
nUSH M.OUNT KING~S....__ FIGURE 21
_.../
~
€£. _
I
I
._r-.V.' !'., ~
_HI,ES
nusa
MOUNTED
out mortises for the hinges in the web frame, (Th~
mortises should be as deep as the total thickness of tbe hinges so the top frame rests nat On the web frame.)
._.,,_
8ASE
RACHEl ASSEMBLY The last step is to make the rachet assembly that's used to tilt the desk-top up. Tll\S frame consists of t\VO notched arms (0) that fit OVerdowel pegs, see Fig. 26. Cut the arms Irom one piece.of5l4 stock. see Fig. 25. 0 r-;1114"holes along the edge, band SA\V out. the notches, and resaw this
piece to get the two arms, Then join the arms at the bottom with a V!'!" dowel rod, and a crosspiece (I) half-lapped at the top, see Fig_ 2G. Q'hen the rachet frame is hinged to the bottom side of the desk top and W' dowel pegs are mounted to the inside drawer runners, sec Fig. 27. FINAL STEPS To complete the desk, r added a "pencil catcher" to the f,'Ontcdge of the desk top so pencils or paper don't slid. orr when the desk top Is tilted up, see Fig_ 29. Also, I -added adjustable pads to the base Of the leg assemblies, see Fig. 28. The last step was to finish all lhe wood parts of the desk with Sutherland Welles Tung OilWOODSlvllTH
CENTER~G lEYElEfI;S I"IN ~OM 80lU &ND~....er
I
MATERIALS LIST OvOf'Q1IOimcnflon SOy,"w x 24¥,,"d)f 26"·34~h A Web From!!Rail. (2) 1.1/i. x 2'/. . 48'1.. 8 W~b FtCU""~Stiles (2) '¥I. x 2'1•• 170/.0 C D £ f G H
"Front Aprof'l (1) Bock Apron (1) StretMer (1) Dovetail Ke)' (2) Drower Runnel'$ (4) Drawer Fronts (2)
I J
Ralchel Ftome-Top (l) End Cops(2) Uprights (2) Base-{2} Top Frame Roils:(2) Top Frome.Stiles (2) Ratchet Frome Arms
K
l M
N 0 P Otawer Sides (4) Q Drawer 8oc".. (2) R Web Frome Ponels S Drawer Bottoml (2) T Top F"ornePanel U Fon'pica
1:J/i. x ,Ih • 48 '0/,,. x 4 • 480/. 1:J1i~x S~/ •• 4a~/,,. 1:V,,. It 3Y.i. 16'/a: x llt/ ••• 20ilY'. 10/1. x 31h • 1S 10/',. x 1'/•• 17"1. 1'/,. x $l/,• 240/.
CUnlNG
I I I
DIAGRAM
" J
•
1- B Ilm I • I. ."M 'I .' ~u~~ ~!"'!I'_I
~
L
D
'0/1,.
"/,. x 50/•• 17% lY,.x3Vi·19 I '/,. ~ 2'/ ... 47"1"/,. )t 2'/" • 20Y-i lV,.x Iy... 15 'h x 2'/•• 16 'Ill x 21/ •• 13V,t
Y.· Mcs\onilo r-;..~ Moionifo
'II" x $'1.1" • 48"
H"I,~
IB!d
x 20'.4 • 44't. 20'1" x 44~ V,
9
In/Out Box THE INS AND OUTS OF SLIDING DOVETAILS "'Th;-.-re-;-'s-an-o""ld;--"'tim-e""jo-:i;-n-tl"h-.-:t';-. not u~ed much anvmore: a I dovetail groove and·key. Thi, joint was used to hold several I boards togelher, edg'l·t ...edge , (as on a table top), But Ted Kralieek (our Design Director) ""'" dlseove re'"
same depth of eu; II. on the grooves, rout the half-dovetail profile on the edges of Ih. support arms by making shallow passes on both edgeo, see
!
Fig. 2. Sneak up on these c."Ut!" and the fit umil the .upport ann slides t'n\oolhl~' but not too loosely in the J1'OO\·e.
,e,;'
a new applicarien (or thi~
joint. The do"etail key ean be used to make a joint to hold 'he .ides of a box to.
("Qr,,"
PEG SI-I)"ORl'S. To complete
the support arms, round over the outside edges And ronan)" to keep the l.oJ>Ira>' in position (refer to Fig. 8), mount pel(>' centered 2)1.· from the lop of
gether, Maybe tha,',
no big deal,
but building this inloul box was kind of exciting because I got to useajoint that l 'dnever
the support arms, see Fig. 2.
even seen 00[01'0, We also used anorher variation on this jolnl (a .liding dovetail key) to hold the ."1" port arm on the sides tho upper and lower traytl. All in all, this i,\{out box
FRONT/BACK
Next. I worked on the front and back pieces, Thi. io where a dovetall key is used to make
or
turned out to be quilt> projeet ...
a CQ1'nCt'[oint.
ROU1' ouooves.
0'1 i1t\cr("\NtillJ{
at leust from a woodworking
standpoint. THE SIDES 1 started this project by .uUinl( Vt oak stock to size for the .ide piee.:., 'fh."" pieees are 0111to u final length of 13Y,' and to width 80 they're a lillie mere than double wide, see Fig, I. (It', much easier to cut the dovetall grooves on these picc.'C~ if they start OUI wider.) DOV£TJ\II. csooves. The duvetnit grooves that hold the support ann, in Ih. tray's ~ide pieces are routed first. t used the router table with a ".. ",mighl bil 10 clean out most of the waste ill lhiti groovc, Adjust.. the router table'to r(lnC\' t'O the straighl bil is crlllrrnl on the length ofth. sid~. Then roUt ;t 1,.'1"" (Icep dado ac~ the-
center W'oove by moving the fence toward
the bit abeut Vi' and make another pass, Then nip the workpiece end for end and rout an cClunlamount off the opposite. side of the center greovc. Keep moving the renee and routing until the groove is lo/l""
wide. Next. in!\t,ulln Y:/' dovetail bit {also set rout the edges of the groove to it~finnl width of2'1~",see Detail 2 in Fig. I, Then the double wide side pieces can be ripped in half - 10 a final width of 2'y....
f"r d<'Cpl.nd
SUPPORT ARMS
Next, the support arms are cut 6~" longand v,," wider than the widest part of the do\·("tail groove in the si(le pieces. see Flit, 2, Th.n, \\;,h the dovetail bit at tbe
'ro
milk.
this joint, the first step is to ,'<)utdovetail grooves Oil the face the n'<)nl and back
or
pieces. However, since cluvet.ail l.il$ eun not. be raised in increments
to rout n
groove.I started with a V••' straight blt to
a,
clean out most of the waste, see I"ig, For the flrst pass, set the Ience to cut u Y.!"..wide grOO\'C celli(','ea ~"" fl'0111 ~h(' edge, For this cut, the slmighl bit's depth should be slightly le... tban Ihe finiohed depth greeve 50 the final J)M~with the dovetail bit will create a reaUy clean eut. After the straigh; groove is routed on one edge. turn the piece end-for-end and rout a second straight WOO\''!on the 01)0pesite edge, Then convert the 1\\'0 $trailtht gtOO\'C"
or
into dovetall grooves. Leave the router
v,
table's fenee in the same Im-ition, and in.talI a dovetail bit set for. 'Y•• depth of AGUII2
O(tAJl 1
1',
.,.
entire \\'i(lth of the side piece, see Detail I in ~'ig, I. After the first pass, widen 'his
lour SH"OfD
I '.
S'
.t...
.......sa..,GHr
"" "
'. - -
-_
~.
,t, ~
1\ ISTPASS 2ND PASS
f[Ne[
r,-,---.,---.-J
l alP TO FINAl WIOTHAfftR AOUl1NGG~OOVE
'.'
aourta
TAllE:
~..,.ooVltA.l "r
10
WOODSMITI1
cut, and rout, the dovetail prom" on both grooves. DO\'ETAJl. $(.OJ(f:TS. \Vith this same setup on the router table, "OUtthe sockets
RGUR'E 3 6L._OCKGUlDf sloe PIECE
in the cllcf!$ of the side pieces, see Fig. d. rro _SUI>p0n.the side pieces and prevent chip out while they're on end, use a scrap 2x4
/
fENCE:
block behind the workpiece,
/
DOVETAil KEYS
(
Now the dovetail keys are cut't<) fit the groovesln the f,'onVback pieces, The keys
are ,nla
thicker than necessary, Then later.
CUT kEYS f-ROM
tONTfj:ASnNG
,
.,,<1 .,~ ..") srocs ,-_,
OOVfTAll k,EY STOCI(
FfNce ,
F1GURE S
;rresve
SUVER
f.OR S'AND1NG
I
ROUTEA' fABLE
RIP "E'( OfF SOARD
UNCE
the
whole assembly can be sanded flush. After the first fOIl,1' keys are cu~ off the two strips. ''eIJe.t this whole process to get four more keys. Then 'appl)' glue to the grooves and tap the keys in place. (Tap qUickly here because the keys absorb moisture from the glue and swell.) Tap the keys in place until ')I.- extends on bott. ends, see Fig, 6. (Be sure to clean off any excess glue from the ends of the keys.) CUTOI'ENlN(;S. Before r assembled the
'II" OOVE:TAI_l BIT
.lAO.
SAW TAa",
fiGURE 6
trays, 1 cut openings in the fl'ont pieces. Dri]] t\VO II' holes 4" on center and %" up from the bottom edge. see Detail in Fig. 6, OJ\ a band saw, and smooth "I) the opening with. small sanding drum on the
Then cut out the waste
ASSEMBLE TRAYS
After the openings in the front 'Pieces are smoothed out, glue the t\VO sides and the front/back pieces together, Then trim the excess off on the ends of the keys so the corners can be rounded over later. R~WO.xrFOR aOT1'O~t.Next, rout 3' rabbet on the bottom of each tray for the plywood bottom, see Fig. 7, (I did this 0.\ the router table with" rabbeting bit and pilot.) Then cut the plywood bottom to fit the rounded corners of the rabbet. Before gluing the bottom in place, finish sand the top side of the plywood. (It's easier to sand before it's installed.) llOUN,D O\'ER
CO;RNEI~S. Finally.
RGutE 7
fiGURE 8
I
rounded over the four' outside corners on each ll"ay with a ~ rounding over bit on the router table. Then I switched to a 11.rounding-over bit to round over all the edges of each tray. FINISH,To finish the trays, I sanded all surfaces smooth. and then applied Sutherland Welles Tung Oil (lIledium Luster). WOODSMITH
rA,lM ENO$ Of OOVfTAJlKEYS AFlf'R ASSEMBLY
r.!lJo,-
USE ~ .. ROUNOJNG OVER 81f ON
AU fOOlS
\ ¥•. RADIUS ON All OutSIDE CORNERS
I1
Two.-Drawer Caddy__ THE BEST PARTNER A DESK CAN HAVE As ...ve were "'orking on the design of the adjustable desk (shown on page 4), we knew there would be a problem with storage. Rather than try to build a lot of extra storage drawers into the desk, we thought the best solulion would be to build • "1>orate, roll-around storage
To build this ca ddy. I .wrt",1 with the solid-wood sid.. (A). Both sides lII\! made o( ;;'4 (1Yo. thick) oak. To make the sides, np .i!!ht pieces of steek i) x IT' and edge-glue the pieces to form two sides with rouR'h (limension~ of 20- wide by IT long. Ane r lhe side. are glued up, plane them 0.1. (Note: The "inside" (a.. o( the sides should be M Oal :J8 possible so the drawer .. operate 611l00thly.) Then trim the sides to their On,,1.iw of 1S" x 16". (1'0 avoid expansion/cont"action problems, the grain on the sides milo, run the 16" direction, which means it will be horiZ(lntal when the caddy I. assembled,
sec photo.) HOU" GROOVE. After both side. sre trimmed to size, three V......wtde gr'oovcs are routed on the inside (acc to attach Ihe top, bottom and back, f'in!t, I marked each piece to indicate which edge would be (or the lop, bottom and back, Then I marked the start and stop points o(the grooves 00 I could eas lly see where to begin and end the routing pMS. To guide the router. clamp a fence to the side piece. I started with the groove for the lop, then moved the (ence to rout the groove [or the bottom, and finAlly, rout",1 the groove for the back so it start. and stops in lh~ first t\\'"O grooves. see Fig. I. Each time a groove i~ routed. make sure the dire
a compass to mark a ¥~.radiul' at each eomer, and carefully round the eomerll off. Then round over aUthe edges (on bolh the inside and outside (aces) using a Yo- rounding over bit. THE END CAPS At this point, the sides are complete, Tho next step is to build the caddy'. top alld bottom (C). Both or these piee•• lire mad. out, o( W particle board wilh 614 (I
y,,'
12
thick) oak capa (B) 011 the front and back edges. The top also has a piece of F ormien laminated to it. CIlT PARTlel.': BOARD, Start by cutting two pleces of particle board to a rough size of II x 12".Then laminate a piece ofFormiea to the piece (01' the top. (I used Formiea brand Iaminate. The eolor is Dark Henna '935, matte finish.) ESOC.'PS. Next. the end caps are cut and added to the front and back edges. Rip four
caps 2Yc" wlde
16"IOI1g. Once agnin, so [ eould keep things straight in late,' steps, I marked each end cap's po!!ilion (toplfrollt and back, bottom/front and back). GROOI'£S ix CArs. The end cap$ are joined to the particle board with tongue and groove joints. To keep this joint O""h. the location of the groove. in the end cops is critical (especially on Ihe top). The cops on the top have to fit so they're perf""Uy Hush with Ihe sunace o( the For· CUnlNG
MATERIALS LIST
DIAGRAM
20"
Ow.roll Oimen"CH"I~ 17V."., x 16"" x A Side (2) ,1/'6 x 1. - 16
• End CoP' ,.) C D E F G H I J K
Top' 8ottom (2) O.rowo.. tunners (6) 19. Dtow., Front el} Sm.Dto~,Front(l) 19. Dmw., Sid" (2) Lt. Drawer Boc.k(I' Sm. Orow" Sid" (2) Sm. DtOwor Bock {I' Dl'Ow.r Bottoms (2)
L Coddyloclc(l' M Formi(O Top (1)
l' ,.~ .. S·..,". 72'
11/•• x 2Y.. x 15'h
-n x
I •
1,·/. _15'.r.
V. x If... 13"1. ·~'I •• 12'/. - 15 'lY,.x3V,.IS I/) • 9 • 131Y'. 'h lt 9· 13Y.. 'At • 3 • 13% v,. 3· 13Yt 'I." ply. (wi to Fit)
1;'''.15'''.161,4 lilA x 15'/.
• ! •
I
• •
• I • I
1''',."' '" 5' ..,," • 4,"
e
'-. • 5'h- • CI' I
tit" II 111'/." • 48'
•
•
K
WOOOSMITH
Index of Contents Thib index cove... all of the articles tinclllding projec" and techniques) contained in the fin-t 30 il":--ut.:-. or l,°ood$)),itp. The numbe.. (ollowlOgeaeh listin!(l"<)ierto the issue and I"'g~~ where you can find informarion 011 tbe Ii"ted subject.. Fer example, 20:4·7refers to infol'mation in I\'oodsmitll issue No. 20 on l)tlg~s·1through 7_
I"
Angle Cutting odel20:211 DrlJlinl(,1:10 Antique Willi mllTOr26:18-19 Band saw Blade 10::1 Cutllnj( duplicates 2ll:3 BlIlTistcr'. bookca....,29:16-21,2-1 Bead ouuing jig 16:3 Bed·.ide stand Usc·I-7 Belt buckle 10:6 Belt sander 1;':7: 10:10 Bench Garden :1:8·9:27:12·13 Trestle 2:1:24 Bevel/rip 3:3; 7:5: 25:8-9 Bind.. ·, WOOCINI I"""cle.f 7:4 Bil.!!,morti.ing 2(;:20·21 Blanket ChCKt16:12·15 Blind dOl'ctnil 12:7 Bookcase 7:6·7:29:16-21,2<1 Bookrack 7:12 Boring jig. hori1.ol1taJ12:13 SO\\' saw 6:5 Bowl fruit 21:18-21 Popeorn ~:2-I Box Ch;_'el2.1:20-22 Display 9:11 End f[Tllin15:18 Jewetrv 9:;;: 2-1:20-2'2 Ml1$ic6:6-7:28:·1-7,2-1 Recipe 10:8 Routed 13:12·13:28:10-11 Shop storage 1;;:1·1-15 Slide-top (flngel'-joinledJ 17:14-15 Ti~suc 2:5; 19:24 ~r()y 29:~J·tI.24 Box col1.11'UcliQn 3:0; ,1:1-5:26:4-6 BoxjoinI2:,1·5: 17:12·13 Drawer. 17:16·19 .Jig 2:4 Branding Iron. 10::1 Bread beard 20:2-1 Bread box, roll-top 4:6-8 Buckle. belt 10:6 Buffet tablc,ll8ll~I"K 2O;U·17 Bullel catch 19:12,17 Butler', lray table 1·1:10-11.16:16:3 Cabinet Banister'. bookcase 29:16-21,24 Bed-side 'land 18:·1·7 Caned-panel cabinet and hutcl122:18-22
I~
WOODS~lITII
Cabinet, roPiI. Chair-side 2.1:11-17 Colonial dry .ink 18:12-15 Colonialwall hutch 18:16-19 ContcmpI.y!):Il: 26:4-6 Europenn cabinet lind hutch 22:18·22 ~'I'l"ne and panel 8:S-11 Modular 8tOI"1(0H)'Hlem22:12·15 Raised-panel door 8:7 Shop gtol'l'gc 25:,1·7 SpocI26:,j·6 Tambour stereo 17:6-9 'Tambour 'TV 25:11·19 Tambour wall 17:11).11 Cabinet sera""r J 1:12·13:15:7 Camp 61.001 3:7 Candle .tand t.bl~ 11:6-7 Caned-panel cabinet and hutcl122:I8-22 Canister, turned 14:1·1-15;25:8-12: 27:3: 30:23 Car, loy 1'lIC(' 6:12 Carbide-tipped Router bit 21:S-!!:2.~:23 Table saw blade. 27:11;'21,2'1;28:19,23 Carpenter's lI'ianglp 1:1;:15:6 CllrI, mierowav~J8ervinj(23:8-11
Clock. rout. OttajtOnaI12:8-9 Round 3:10-11 SChoolhouse 21:·1-7::1O:2.~ Clubs, woodworking 27:2·1:28:2-1;29:24: 30:2-1 Coffee table 19:14-17;25:20·2'Z Coin sorter Columns 16:9 '111'.Y10:6 Colonial Dry sink 18:12·15 Wall hutch 18:16-19 Compass 7:3: 26::1 Cookbookirecip"shelf 8:·1·5 Cootingrack 1:2 Corner I Joint, plywood 22::1 ' Template 29:~ ; Cove outting 12:16:2It23 Curio cabinet 21;12-1S:26:12·17 Cul-off jig. rudi;tl :tnn gO'" 22:8 Cutting board 1:1 Dado b4,de, "tlju.'table 17:20:23:23 Danish oil finish•• 1IO:12·15 Deck Chair 3:6-7 Squares 3:10 Ohair Dentil 2G:J2-IIJ.22:29:a ConlemllOl'(lI'Y 2:6-8, 16:8-11 Denis 15:3 Dcck 3,6·7 Desk Oak, dinilll( 15:8-11 Lap 9:6 Patio 27:8-11 Shaker-style wriling 12:.1-7 Scat 25:23 Diamondstone. 2·1:7 Chair·side cabinet 2.1:14·17 Dining table Chest Circular with leaf :10:11;"21,24 Blanket 16:12·15 Contemporary oak 15:·1·5 Six-drawer (boxjoint drawers) 17:Ui--19 Drop-leaf 11:8-10 Sweater 9:8-9 Picnic 27:4·7 Toy 29:·1·9.2-1 Trestle 1::1-.;:23:12·15 Cheval mirror 30:4-8,2.1 Di.play case 9:11;26:1-6 Cbi>.eiJ;19:5:20:8-11:25:3 Door Chisel ease 24:20-2'.1 Caned'panel23:I!t-2'Z Chri$tmas OTlI"IO,'nIS 6:10-12 Glass 13:1l·9; 22: lM-22; 24:9; 25:19: Circles. routing 20:13:21:I(J.II; l)O:9 26:15·17:29:19·20 eil-culn' Hinges 13:8-9:25:19 CIoek 30:10-11 ~funtins 1:1:1l-1) [nlay I'outinl( 26:22 R.i~C(I.pllnoI2:1O.11:18:4·19:24:1"·17 Mi""or frome 12:10·11 Techniques 1:1:8·9:29:2(J·21 Tabl. tOI'19:3; :10:12·15 DOvetail Clamping Blind J2:7 Stops 9:12 Drawers 19:1G~18 Table top 15:7 Fixtures 2'l:6-10: 2:1::1:27::1 Clamps GnJO"~ 11:6-7 Hand 15:7;211::1 Half-blind 22:·1-9 Hold-down 1:6 Hand-cut I;&p22:·1·5:23::1 Pipe 15:3,7;2l!:3 l.amp 2:!:Z,1 Table lop 17::1 llachioc-<:ul 1,,1' 22:6-9 \Vedge ';:3 Plywood 22:8-9 Clock Rabbeted 21::1 Circular' 30:10·11 Routed 22:1;'9 Desk 10:4 Saw. 19:5 Manlel24:8·11; :10:2.3 Through 12:7;(i.,uo I!J)
'CI~""
Dovetail,
t;Q'll.
Frame, cout, Rabbet routing 26:22 Round clock :)0:10-11 W(.b constructlon s.s.n: 14:10-11: 22:I~-22; 2-1:101-17:25:14-17: '~-I'17'. .07. ..u..... ·"'··I-?I _ Frame and p:Jnel eonsrruction 8:6,8-11: 16: 12·1;;; 18:·1-19; 24:14.17.20-22:
Tongue and grC>O"e 9:7; 20:20-22.2·$ Dowels ChamfeMng 10:~ Cu~ting 16:3 Groov"" 16:~ llaking 19:3 Sanding 9:12 Use 24:23; 29:16-21; :~:2 Callery clock :)0:11).11 Orower Con.lnlttion ·1:5: 6:3; 15:11-15; 17:11-9_ Gatl,leg bulTet table 20:1·1·17 16-19: 18:7.19-22: 19: 15-19: 20: I~: C;!a_<.< Cutting 13:16: 17:20 21:15: 22:11-15.21-22: 2.:1-7: Door 13:8-9: 22:18-22: ~:9: 25:19: 29:5-9.14-15.2-1 6:15-17; 29:19-20 Plywood 22:H-I'; ~Iountinj! 11:3 Routed Cront 21:3 Sanding 13:3 Drill bits, morti>inlt 26:20-21 Gluinl( 7:3; 9:3: 10:;l,9; 15:7: 11:4"';: 18:3: Drill guide. ('orlaligll 12::1.1:1 19:2:1:20:23: 21:9; 23:22; 24~.l3:26:1l: Orin prc:-..... 27:23: 28:9.:M c<>net chuck 12~1: 26:28 End grain 2,1:2:1 Cuidu 1:6 Frame 26:11: :)0:9 Hole boring jig 22:3 Inlay 28:9 Morti>e. 18:23 Jig 25:18 Morti$ing bits 26:20-21 Mil;'n; 21:9; 30:9 f're$lt"Ulle table elevator 16:20 Tnrnbou rs 17:4-5 Route.' chuck 12:3 Goblot s, turned 23:4-7: 24:23 Table "uPPOl~ 19:3 Grinde.' 1001 res~20:1; 24:3 Drilling G.inding wheels 20:4-6,12: 23:23 Guide 1:6
Jig 25::1 Horizontal bo.ing 12:13 SIIOI"/IIilir Mnrk V 2!i::l ,.eml)latc 22:12-13 Drop-leaf Hinge 11:10; 14:8 .Joint 11:10: 14:7·8 Pembroke table 14:4-8 Table 11:8-10 Ellip'll!6:8: 1·1:3:16:3: 19:3: 2-1:a End board. 9:7
End grain Box 1.:13 Gluing 24:2:1
Sealing 9::1 f-il. cabinet 7:8-9 Filler Nail hole 1.::) Sawdust glue 17:3 Finger joint 17:14-1'; Fini.'\he~
N"on-loxic 19:23: 25:~:28:2J
Oil ;)0:12-15.24 Outdoor 27:14·15 Turning 20:23
Finishing techniques 11:9: 28.1: :10: 12-15
Fixtures l)o\·etail22:6·10: 23:3: 27.1 Nailing 15,1
Frome Ci~ular 12:11).11::10:11).11
Callery clock 30: 10-1I Gluing 26:11: 30:9 Molded edge U:R-17.20-22: 29:2()-21: :)0:4-8 Mortise and tenoll'$:7·11 Octagonal clock 12:8-9; 21:-1-7 Octagonal. jig 21:17
Ov.1 b:9
Holf-blind dovetail 22:4·9 Halr.lttl> 1:4,7.8: 2:11: 15:8-11; 16:6-7; 22:18-22; 27:4-13.22; 29:23 111111mil'"'' 21:) 6 Hand-cut, dove(jlils 22:4-1); 23:3 llnnd RCI'C\\!:; If>:7; 2S:S Hexagon 16:8-9: 18:8 Hinges Butler's tray table 14:16: 16:3: 20:23 Dado 18:8 1)001' 13:8-9 Drop-leaf 11:10; [.1:8 CIMS door 2,;:19 Knife 1:1:11-9 Wooden (issue 14'9) Hold-down jig 28:3 Holding' jig. vise 29:3 Hole bOling jig 22:3 Horizontal horin, jig 12:13 HUl
Joinery Blind dovetail 12:7 Box 2:4·5: 17:12-13.16-19 Corner. plywood 22:3 Dovetail 19:6-11; 22:4·9: 2:1:3 Dovet ail tongue and groove 9:7; 20:20-22,24 Drop-leaf 11:10: 14:7-8 Finger 17:1-1-15 Frame and panel 8:6.8-11: 16:12-15: 18:4-19: U:U-17.20-22: 29:4-22 HaIr-blind dovetail 22:4-9 Half.lap 1:4.7: 15:8-11: 16:6-7: 22:18-~; 27:4·13.22: 29:23 Hand-cut dovetail 22:4"';: 23:3 Haunehed mortise and tenon 14:11).11: 18:4-19 Keyed mortise and tenon 1:4 Lap dovetail 22:4-9 Locked miter 9:10 Locked inngue and dado 13:7 Machinc-cut dovetail 22:6-9 )liter and spline 1:11; 21:8-9,12-16: 22:20-22: 30:2.4-11.16-22 Mitered half-hlp 2:11 Mitered mortise and tenon 16:16-17 Molded rnortlse and tenon 24:12-13.24 Mortise and tenon 1:<1; !!-:3-5: 12:4-7.12; 13:10-11; 11:5.10-11: 15:8-12: 16:4-7.12-17; 17:16-18; 18:4·19.2'1: 20:14-17; 21:12-10: 22:18-22; 24:9.12-13.18-22.24; 25:22; 26:7-11 Open mortise and tenon 24:18-22 Parallel spline 9:9 Plywood dovetails 22:8-S Rabbet and groove (also called ,·.bbeV dado 01- rabbeted tongue/d"do) 6:8; 10:9: 13:'1-7: 18:12-15,19·21: 21:4-7.16; 22:12-15: 26:<1-6
Routed dovetail 22:6-9 Rule 1l:10: 101:7-8 Sliding dovetail longue and groove 20:20-21 Stave eonsrruction 20:8-9: 27:3: 30:23 Stopped dodo 2:6.11 Stub tenon and greeve 29:22 Through dovetail 12:7: 19:6-11 Tongue and groove 1:5: 13:-1-7;18:12-19: 24:1-1-17 Jigs. COlli. Miter 12:15: 24;12·13
Molding 26:22 Mortise cutting 16:IS: 18:23 Octagonal frame ~1: 17 Panel cut~1T2O:13; 27::1:21<:3 Panel eutting 18:23: 22: II
Pin-routing 28:20-22 Radial arm saw cut-olT 22:3 Radial ann saw router 20-.3 Raised panel 20:3 Rcsawing6:9 Ripping 20:13
Router-cut mortise 26:3 Routing round blanks 21>:3 Shelf support 18:3
Taper 1:6: 5:4: 11:3 Tenon 16:18; 24:18-19: 28:3 Vise holding 29:3
WOODSMITH
Joiner)". ('0111. Twin tenon 12:12 \Vedged mortise and tenon 15:8--12 Knife
Hinge. 1:1:8-9 Holder 10:7 Lamp Dovetail 22:2-1 Hangin)l2:9 Lap De.k 9:6 Dovetail 22:'I-!I Lazy Su~"" 21:10-11
Open 21:18-2"2 1\\;" tenon 12:12
Leg'S 'I'apored 11:11; 1,1:4-8; il8:12-13 TUJ'ue<1 12:6
Letter opener 10:7 Light bracket. swivel 9:4 Linseed oil finish 30:12-15 Locked miter 9:10 Locked tongue and dado 13:7 ~18chin~-cutdovetail 22:&.9 )Iantel clock 24:8-11; 30:23 ltarking gauge 19:12-13; 21:3 Marquetry. inlay 20:17: 26:6.22; 28:8-15.24 lIemo board 18:24 llierowa\'.,,,,,,,·ing cart 23:8-11 ltirror Antique wall 26:18-19 Cheval :lO:·I-8,24 Circular- Irnme 12:1()..U Hal! 21:16 \'anitl' lO:5i ~1:24 Mite,' Cutting 21:8-9,17; 28:S; 25:23; 30:9 Gauge, table MaW 2J;:8, 27:22; 29;23 Gluing 21:9; 30:9 Jig 12:15; 2-1:12-1:1 Locked 9:10 Mathematic< 12:14-15 lUter and .pline join.ry 7:11; 21:4·9.12-16: 22:20-22; 30:2.·1-11.16-22 lUt.red half-lap 2:11 lIitered mortL,. and tenon 16:16-17 lloduJar .torage system 22:12-15 Molded edlte frame 2-1:8-17.20-22;29:19-20: 30:4·8 )Iolded meruse and tenon 24:12-13 Moldings 24:10·13; 26:12·19.22; 28:4·7; 29;3,17·20 Mortise
Anglt~115;8-1l Bits 26:20·21 Cutting Jig 16:18: 18:23 Double dado 16;7 Dril! press 18;28 Roulel'clIl, jilt 26:S; 30:22 Slo( 8:,1; 10:3; 13:IQ-)I: 14:5,10·11; 16:4·5: 26:8-9 Through 15:8-11 'r\\;n 14:5; 18:·1.7,12.15; 20:14·17 Slortise and tenon 1:4: B:a·;;: 12:4·7.12: 13:11).11: 11:5; 15:8-12; 16:-l-'i.12-18: 17:16-18; 18:4-19.24; 20:14-17; 21:12· 1.-' 2.'18·.'" ""9 19.13 18·9? 9" 2J;:22: 26:7·11 ~lort_l!!ieand tenon Fnun,' 2G:7-11 •
....
\VOODSMll'U
__
I
_ ...•
Mortise and tenon. fOnt Haunehed J.I:IO·II; 18:·1-19 KevL'<11:·1 ~Iojded 24:12-13.2-1
'"
1
--.~.
\\'ed"ed 15:8-12 Muntin. 13:8-~ Music box 6:6-7; 28:·1-7.2-1 Nailing fixture 15:3 Nestled table. 28:12-1. Nole board 18:201 Oetallon 12:8-11;16:10; 21:4-7 ~'r.me jil( 21:17 Oil Jinil!hes :)0:12·15,211 Ornaments. Ch,·i.tmus 6:11)·12 Outdoor Furniture (i•• ue *3); 27;,1-13 '-inisheN 27:1,1·15 Panel cut-on' jig 25:13; 27:3; 28:3 Panel cutling 8:12: 11:3; 18:23; 2'1:11 Parallel spline 9:9 Patio chair 27:li-1I Pembroke table 14:·1-8 Pencil and card holder 2:12 Picnic table 27:·1-7 Pictur. frame router bit 9:3: 10:3 Picture and Ill..... mounting II:S Pin routing 28:10·11.16-18,20·22 Pipe clamp» 1&.~.7:28:S Plane Adjuslments 2:1:2()·22:25:28 Bench 23:16-22 ,'lnUeninA' 28:22: 25:3: 29:23 Jack 11;:7 Sharpening 211:18·19 Planer, \VIIgIIC" S.fe·T· 10:10; 15:7 Planing. table lop 2:1:21 Planter
Cedar plllars 3:-1 Rangin)l3:12 Redwood tub 3:3 Tapered -side. W: 10-11
Plunge routers 28:23 P*'wood Buying tips :lO:t) Comer joint 22::1 Dovetails 22:ti-9 Drawer construetiou 22:14...15 Splintering 22:11 Popcorn bowl. turned 25:24
Poria/i9"
D,;I! guide 12:a,l$ Shaper bit 12:10·11 P''68$lI1ate drill press tnble clevntor 16:20 Rabbet und groove joint (also called rabbet/dado or rnbbetcd tongue/dado) 6:8; 10:9; 13:'1-7; 18:11).21; 21:·1·7.15; 22:12·15: 2(;:4·6 Rabbeted Dovotail.21::1 Drawer (ront 22:9 Frame. routed 26:22: 36:9 Radial ann Cut..,fl' jig 22::1 Router jig 20:3
~a'"
Tabl.20:3
Technique" 15:1G; 16:16-18; 17:3;
arm t""hniqu", 18:11.23 I Radial Raised·p"n.12:1~11; 8:7; 18:·1.19.2:1:20:3; 23:23; :J.I:I·'·17 "3W
<0111.
Rasp 26:23 Recipe box 10:~ Resewing 6:9: 28:4-7 Rip/bevel 16:8 Ripping jig 25:1:1 RoIl·lop brt'lld box ·1:6-8 Resan inserts 22;11.11·15; 24:3: 27:24: 28:24: 30:3 Routed Box 13:12-13; 28:10-11 Dovetails 22:6-~1 Drawer front 2J :!i Snack tray 28:11;·18 Router Bit. catbide tipped 21:~·9; 23:23 Bit. mortising 26:20-21 Bit. picture from,' 9::1: 10:3 Bit, raised panel Z:l:2:~ Case ~:3 Chuck with drill p",', 12:.1 Debris 24:21 Dovetail flxturvs 2'1:6-9: 2:1:3 Guide. multi-purpose 17:20 Jig. centered j..ITOOV(.'N :~:22 Jig, dentil molding 29::1 Jig, mortise cutting 26:3 Jig, radial :\I'DI saw 20:3 Jig, round blanks 25::1 Pin 28:10·11.16-18.20·22 Plunge :lS::!:! Technique. 10:11-12; 13:3; 20:13; 21:S. 8-11; 26:la; 26:22: 28,10-11,16-18.
20·22; :lO:4-11.1G·22
Trammel attachment 80:4-8.10-1 ~.16·21 Reuter tabl. Cunstruction 2O:18-HJ:22:16-17 I nserts 3O~1 Pin·routing attachmenl 28:20-22 Planing on 18:3 Sabre ,,"W setup 30:3 Stand 22:16-17 Table N\'''' l'xwnl'llon 2-':3 Rule joint 11:10; 11;7·8 Safety 15:3 SaIe-T·Planer. Waf/tier 10:10; 15:7 Sander
Belt 15:7 ROCKwell S""cclIJIO<' orhil
Scrap weed projects :1:12: (;$'u. #10): 14:1'I-l~ Scraper. cabinet 14:12·13: 15:7 Screws
Brase 18::1 Sheet reek 18:~: 19:23 Serv ing Cart 23:S-1! 'i'ra,)' 19:19 Shaker-style
Pelt rack 2:3 Step :'!Ulnti 19~)..22 Table. (l",,"e .. I!) Writing de$k 12:4-7 Shaper-
Bit 12:3.10-11 Guide.- 19:23 Sharpening Aids 20:7 Carbide-tipped table saw bladt. :!II:!!I Cbi.el. 20:8:11: 26:23 Diamond .wne. 24:7 Japanese water stones ~:·1-6;26:i!3 Plane irons 23:18-19 Scraper blade I·I:I:! Stones 20:4-7.1:l-1~: 21;2:1 Table sow blad cs 28:19 Shelf Aligning brackets 1I:3 wsn 20:20·21 Shooting board 13:3 Shop storage Box 16: 14·15
Cabinet 25:·1·7 Cart )3:)<1-15 Side table 11:4·5 Sliding do"etail lonl(ue and gl'oo"e 20:20-21 Snack tray. routed 28: 16-18 Spalted wood 28:23 Spice box 6:3 Spindle turning 26:3 Spline Cutting 10:3: 15:·1·1)::!I~ll ParaDe19:9 Routed groove 21 :s.n U>e 23:22 Spool di>play case $:·1·6 Stave eonstrucuen 2.;:8-9.2·1; 2'7::J: ;W:2;{ Stereo cabinet .... mbour 1;:609 Stones
Diamond 2·1:7 Japanese \\ arer 2.l:-I..6: 2f_;;2:~ Sharpening 20: 1-, .It·!!l: 21:2!l Stool Camp3;i Shop 4:11 Stopped dado 2:5.11 Storage ;\1oriular system 22:12·1.')
Shop 15:14-15 Tabl,· saw 13:11-1.; S,,'eat(')" chest 9:8-9
$\\'l\,.:lliJrht
bracket
11:·'
Table RtlffCllt"Ie-le~:I·I-17 Butler's tray 14: 10-11.Hi Candle stand II :6-7
Tnbl e, C,'l)lIi. Coff~e 19:11·17: 2,,:ZO-Z!
Contempol'aryoak 1;;:·1-;; Uining aO:I(;'21.2·1 rx.uble·duty 1:7 Ol'1ll>'lear 11:8-10; 1l:·I-8 Gall,-II·I\' buffet 20:1-1-17 1.(·M !lO: 18-1\) N,·stl.d 2><:12-15 Picnic 27:4·7 Pembroke 11:4-8 Radinl.rm saw 20:3 Router 20:18-19: 22:1(;,17: 24:3 Shaker-style side 11:·1-5 Top 15:6·1; li:3: 19;3: 20:17: 21:23; 2:~:1:!·15.21
Tn->lle 1:3-5; 2.3:12-15 T\' t ....y 16:4-7; 17:20 Table
27:16-21,24:
2I!:I!I.2:l
Dad. blade. adjustllble 17:20 Miter !(auge 25:3 S<>IUP 20::1:23:3 S"'I1\I(" 1:1:14·15 Techniques 15:15: 12;16: 16:8.10·11: 1~:I1.2.~: 20:2a Tambour noll·wp bread box 4:6-8 S\(>"Co cabinet 17:6·9 'I'('' ll:lI; 1.1:4.8;28:12-IS Template, C4)I'n(tI' 29::3 Tenon Culling 2(i:IO-11 Huunehed 11:10-11 Jig 2-1:1S-1\1;28:3 Mit"red ,I>oulder 16:13.16-17 Rttpniring round 2:3:3 Stal(ger<:
Trestle table 1:3-;;; 2:3:12·15 Trivet, tiled 21:24: 22:23 Timg cil Iinish 30:12-15 Turning
Bowl 21:18-21: 25:2.1 Canister H;14-15: 2.';:8-12: 27:3: :10:2:1 Fruit bowl 21:18-21 Gauge 21:3 Goblets 23:4- i: 24:22 Gouges 21:22: 24;23 Legs 12:5 Popeom bowl 25:2-1 Scraper 21:22; 22:22 Spindle 26:3 1'001$21:13-22: 22:23: 24:2!l n' rrav tabl es 16;4-7: 1i:20 v anitv'mirror 24;24 Veneer 14:10·11 Yeneer tape 17:8: Z!:11-14 \'is.e Dogs z,;:3 Holding jig 29;3 Waglwr Safe·T·PJ8ner 10:10 Wall shelf 20:20·21 'VaSte basket 7:. \,rater stones .. Japanese 2<1:4-6; 26:'23 \Veh frame construction 8:8-11: 1·1:10·11: 22:18·22: 24:14·17: 25:).1·17; 26:12-17; 29:4-21 Wedge clamps 5:3 \VQod Dimensions 22:23 Movement 9:7 'Outdoor use 3:11;27:1·1-15 f:ipalted 28:23 Storage 19:2.1:30:3 Wooden hinges (issue ;(19) Woodworking clubs 27;24: 28:2·1; 2~:2-1; 30:24
Through dovetail 12:7
11. r:«k 1:2 Til':' and techniques (issues 7.-30:page 3) Ti"l'Iu(" bcx 19:24 Ti-sue box cover 2:5 Tungut_~ and groove joint 1:5: 9:7: 1:l:4-1~ "':12-19: 20::.'0-22.24: 24:14-17 Tool rest, grinder 2O:i; 24:3 Tool.torag,· 1:9.12 'rO\'
('he>! 29;1·9.2-1 Race car :):1~ Train &: Ill-II 'l'rav C~)insorter 10:6 l(out,~1snack 28:16-18 S<-r"ing 1!r.I!i SImekU:IIl-IS T\', tables It1:·t~7:17:20 'rl't:~tl("bench 23:24 WOOOSMITH
mica. (If the cap is too high, it'. difficulL to sand down without ruining the Formiea.) To get this perfect alignment, 1 didn',
nOURE 1
a ruler or measurement. Instead, J used the actual laminated piece to ~ot up US{"
the router table to rout the groG"e. Hold the laminated piece agllillSt the fence of the router table and adjus; the fence until the full thlckncss of the piece touches the outoidt edge of a ~. straight bit. (This same preeedure ean be used on a table saw.) Then rout a. ~"'~d(!_('p groove in both C:~IPS for the top. When completed. the bottom of the groG"e should meet the bottom of the particle board, see cress section, Fig. 2. ("II'S "Oil flO'I'J·OM.Although the bottom piece of particle board is actually thinner (because it'to not laminated with Formica), J used the sume set-up on the router table to rout the groove. for the bottom caps. (These ca"" will be completely hidden from ,tit"" b)' the bottom drawer, Perfection here is not so importnnt.) I'£NCII. (:ROO'·fo:S.The <:3)$ could be added as they are now. but I though! it would be nice to rout peneil grooves in the caps on the top. Il takes three passes on the router table \\;th two different bits to create this wide groove profile, First, use a 'VII" :\traight bit LOrout a ~",IIf~(leepgroove down the center of the caps, see Detail! in Fig. 3. 'Then swltch to a Yl:" core box bit, center it on one of the shoulders created by the straight bit, and rout the eeve profile V,,r deep, see Detail 2, Then repeat, this proet.1AA on
TONGUES fOR END CAPS
After the .nd cap> are complete, cut the 0/." particle board for the top and bottom to finnl si?..eof 16"x II~". see I-'ig. 5.
>\
aA:]jl r II
WXlUAIt'( FENCl
11
~-
' ,. aonoM
,,-- --ftl#Ulf 2
2'. -I
:~
I',.
I'lACfMlNt 0' GROOvE ontl.MrNl:D., ,..tcKHfSS Of PAIlKU 10...0
CUI fOUR £NO CAI'S TO 'HISE DlMfNSIONS
flGUlf ..
1
T
__ ~
'- t'.
r
L
2
I
i:'! '.' COtE
1' ...
~_l
2' ..
';,
3 1-',"'1
I-
_!=-:,
~
DO HOl ROUND COftHIIS UN'n.. AfTtt GlUING IHD CAP caoss S!(fION
~IR
-1
--
r--- ---1
"
STIAJOKT
""
TOP
l
2'/.
~J - h..'. GlOOV( ~ fOlt PlYWOOD BACK
I
"
2N~
.........."
--'
UNe UP BIT
ON SHoutOtl
•
<,
ANAL MEASUREMmTS
1... · -
TOP.,,-xuDonO.'I. Then to join the particle board to the end caps. rout rabbets on the two long edges of both
800'0M
CUT rOUGUE TO ffl GItOOVE
-
,I
pieces to form tongues in the end eaps. Here ,n.ak up on the depih the longue fiL~snugly
WOOOSMITH
"
•
R.-\801:-r
that fit the groove. it's best to slowly of the rabbet. until in the grooves. S.\:-/OENI)(·APS. Because the face of the end caps "ill be butted again st the Formica to), finish sand the two LOPenps before gluing them to the top. ATrACY tSJ) CAL'S. Pinally. glue and clamp the end caps to the tOP and bottom. When the glue is dl'Y, (lim the two edges that will he joined to the caddy'. sides. and reduce the total width to 15'1".
•
~~-~
the other shoulder,
cnoovss FOR BAt'K. Before the caps are joined to t he top and bottom pieces, I routed the ~'1'00\'''used to hold the caddy's plywood buck in place. rrhcse V,"..wkle grooves are located ¥,." from the back edge of the ea .... see Fig. ~. Then one last stop. The bettcm/front eJl(1cap is to be trimmed to u width or llA" (see Fig, I) to allow space for the front of the bottom drawer.
'.
tOUT"
OIIKnON
lOP
ROUGH DiMlNSIONTAIM TO 15~·.
~"f.Gt,.UING
...
--
Ifill) CA' ASS(.MalY
I
,
I.
/
\
£. .'
t4;'~~ c I ~ f. I, t •
• 1',-.
-
~
-
I' I.
13
AnACH TOP AND 80nOM
- TltlM TONGUE lACK
To join the top and bottom to the ""ddY'8 ",.1 sidos, a rabbet is routed on the edges orthc top and bottom to produce a tongue to fit the grooves in the sides. see Det"il in Fig. 6. The fit here should be .nug. Al(8in.
ItOIlT OUT &0"010\ 0' 'NO CAH
sneak up on the cut to make sure t-he
•
"
ClOSS SlcnoH
..
orr
~ SIC<
I
''- TOHGUf:"
FlGUlf 7 TOP DRAW(l
1'4
"
,f
GltooVE. I. '.
I.
tongues fit the groove s, Also, the bottom side o[ the end caps must.be routed nu.;h with the bottom o[the part ide board. see Fig. 6. When the thickness oft he tongue filS the groove. trim about V. the front and back edges so the length o[ the tongue fiLS the length of the groove, see Fig. 6.
I
DClI
'.
ftYWOOO
.. ex
ROl'!'U
fi
-
nOM IOnCM ......
t
OOVIETAIl JOINT OffAl\.
O\~£REOCoES. The w.t step is to
round over the edges on the end caps with a ~- rounding over bit. (Shop Note: I saved this rounding-over step unul last to remove any evidence of chi pout that might occur when the tongue. are routed on the edges of the top and botlom.) Round over the edges on both .01" on the lop, but only the bl'ck cal>on the bottom. (The front "I' on the bottom will b
sions to allow
(01'
eXI)an~ionleontl'fiction of
the solid-wood sides
or lhe
caddy.
THE DRAWERS
Normally. I would assemble tho caddy at TOPVIEW
this point, But because the back is sol into grooves when the caddy i$ assembled. il would be difficult to get inside to mount the
drawer runners.
fiGURE-I
f
(
•
", "4
Oltoovt
-, Off'
I.
fltOM 10noM
~I
12" •
This measurement
/' IOn~cUl
Tom
~
»:
" etoSs
stenON
••
o
Instead, I dry-elamped
the caddy together and started work on the drawers, The caddy shown here has a small drawer on top. and a larger drawer at the bottom that's sized to hold file folde rs, However, this bouom drawer could ... ily be changed to two $maUer drawers, i( desired. DR.-\\\,,&R FRO~"TS.To determine the tiiz.e of the drawer fronts. dry-clamp the ea
aonOM OIAWE.
~,
,
1"
!!
""
/
/'
runs from the bottom
edge of the top cap all the way to th. bottom edge o[ the caddy'$ side s. (The bottom drawer does not end at the bottom shelf, it goo> all the way to lhe bot torn edit. of the caddis side.) The combined height Of the drawer fronts ohould be a total o[ ~-I
top drawer from,
to size. 'then
glue lit>
enough stock fa" the bottom drawer front
and trim it to size.
14
WOOJ)SMITJ.I
~ ,,';1,
I
1)ll.\\\'f;n Sll) ..... -; AND BACK. fro complete
the drawers, 1 used ~,. stock
the sides
1'01'
.•
andhaok ofthedrawersandjC)ined them to the fronlS with dovetail .ongue nnd greove
Next. do\!cl~ailgrooves for the drawer
thE' greoves, Also, Y,"-y:idc ~"es
are
routed for the drawer bottom. and :Y,l'·,vide ffrOO\'eR nrc routed in the outside
-
•
After the
OllA\\, ..;R .'RQ,ST IIA'sIJI_.t:;,
front to 8 +'.01" radius. and usc a
'IOURe 10
CASTl. PUCIMINT
"
P'
...,.INDCA' ~
',.
CAml! 'LAfl
aonOM VIM 0' CAOOY"
-,~
C
~==~D:""A~W'.
fltONT tNO C_A_' __
~
IIt-ONt
._
IJ
FIGURE 11 tUNNEl!
OftAtL
1
face of the 'Side$ fo), the runnel'S. drawers sides, back and bottom 81'<'done. I went back to work on the drawer front.o make the no.ched openings thaI serve as handles. To make these notch•• , 'hill 'wo I • holes 4' "I).,·t. see deta il in f'll(. 7. Then cut out the notches on a band !41l\", Arter they'1'<'roughed OUI. smooth the edl(eS \\;th a :
"1
T
-
joinery.... Fi!t>. 7 and S. We've PUl nll the step-by-step inforIllation for tnnking this kind or drawer in a separate article on pages 21 to 23. But briefly, the ~ide. are joined to the fronlS by routing Stol)J,X."(1 dovetail grooves in the drawer front... These groove" are pesi. •joned so the sides are set in W" from the edge of the front, see Fig s. 7 and 8. back are routed on .he i'lSide rnt'" of the drawer's ~idcJl;.Then dovetail tongues- are cut on the dra\\'cr sides and the back to fit
.
, ..j...
OACK
..L
1
'.
2
3
/
... S1",HOAlO
alT
@-
',. WASHER
1
_ ,
v.- rounding
0"." bit (on the router table) to ,'Otll1<] ovei
ROUAE 11
all the edges, 4\SSf:~18Lt-: l)ltA\f"F.It$.
Now the drawers
can be assembled. Apply glue to the tongues on the drawer's 'ides and baek and ,lide them into the grooves. Then glue rhe
Rtomv((W
I.
bottom in place nn(1 elamp the drawer logether.
,...
DRAWER RUNNERS
The drawers are mounted in the cadd~' v.ith wooden runners that aN: serewed to thecaddj·~s5ide$. Cut. these runners [0 size
so they extend into .he groo,"'. in the drawer's ~ides. ~1I0\\tingabout Vu'" clear• nee between the runner and the bottom of
•
the groove. see cross-section in f"ig. 12. Then to moun•• he runners to the caddy. cou"",rhore and drill !
see
I";g. J 1. (These
holes are
over-sized
so
the,.. 'a enough flexibility to ndjust, the
drawer runners as they're instAUc(i in the caddy.) .I.SSE)'UI.EC.,nIN£T. At last ••
he caddy
can be glued and clamped toget her. As tlte top and boucm tire mounted bel ween the sides, also be sure U'I)lIt the buck in place. (Note: Do not glue the plywood back in the grooves, The caddy's si
FL"AL STEI'S. After
the
caddy
was as·
sembled, I in,t.lled 2" casters 10lhe bot-
lorn, see Pig. 10. Then I fini.hod tho caddy two coats of Watco natural Danish Oil Finish.
",,11
\VOODSMITIi
15
Tools of the Trade A BUYER'S GUIDE TO ROUTERS "You guys at Wood$mit/'$ul-edo like to use routers. \Vhen YOU'l'enot using it handheld to "out grooves or cut circles, you've gOt it mounted to a router table. N'ow that you've got. me convinced that I've got to have one, which one sheuld L get.?" Our love affair with routers is no secret - almost. every project we show in 'food· $"IiJ.J" uses a router in one way or another.
Changing, and includes the method used
the switch before plugging tn the router!
to change bits, and the stse and style of wrenches proyided with the router, 'The third group is Deptk Ailj1<3ting, which l"evie'\!$ features such as the method for a
the motor could start instannly. That's
of securing' the motor in the base, toe
amount of clearance in the base for bits, and the aljility to keep a bit centered in the' And since we use routers and the 1'0liOOl' bllSe at (lin:e':ent height "oltinga, table so often, we receive a lot of requests The fourth category is called Router asking which router we use, and more to T«~ltOottt.pa.tibilit!.(, and reviews any the point, which we recommend. problems with mounting the router to a That's really a tough question. There are router table, any problems with obstrucover thirty models of routers on the martions, and Lhe limits on the depth of cut. Then finallY, we included a short-review ket to choose from - ranging' from expensive heavy-duty industrial models to of the accessories ofie.-ed for each ,-out ••·. TOE ItA'T1NCS'l'S"J""':~l,I}'o provide both inexpensive (and underpowered) toys. consistency in our opinions, and to allow So we decided to buy a selection of these direct comparisons, we I'(}ted ea,eh router' routers. andreview.the merits of each. But since we couldn't review every model, we on the four milior areas listed above by reduced the field by setting some guide- assigrting' a numbered grade from 1 (poor) lines, to 5 (excellent). b'or a summary of the First, of an, we decided to review only rating, see the chart-on page 19. standard (not plunge-type) routers in a ROUTER 8.ASES I H .P. to Iy, H. P. range (19 provide ample As we began choosiljg our initial group of power for cutting hardwoods). Then we put a ceiling on the retail price at $200. I 1"01.1tel:'S,we.found ourselves $skjng s-elioua k..IOW that seems like. lot of money (OJ' questions about the ball-handled bases a route.', but it's the upper limit we set. so that include on/off toggle switehe~ on the motor housing. cr~il; style is shown on the we could include some of the 'industrialBlack and Decker #3310, see photo 1.) quality reuters. Seve,..l routers we reIt was clear that there were two safetyviewed cost much less (one mcdelretails related problems with this style base and for less tban 3(0). switch. First, i11 order to turn on the Tue CRI"J,-;Itl~, After set-ting these router, )'OU have to take one hand off the guidelines, we decided to look at four handle to engage the switch. leaving only groups of featl!l·es. The first group is the one hand to hold the router, 'I'hia oneControls, wbieh includes ad.anta~es and handed control is awkward ,a~best, espedisadvantages to the style of base and eially when you're (J'ying to hold onto a handles; the type of switch and its location; the amount of starting torque (twisting small ball handle. The other problem has to do ,vith theforce); and the ability to keep the router under control during start-up and toggle switch. This type of switch can aecid_entlybe turned to the "on" pesiticn while the routeris If you den'tcheek
dangerous.
Because of these
t\VO
safet,}, aspects, we
decided to review routers with this tl1'. of base Imly if they weren't offered with a different style of'bas e. With this additional criterion, we chose a group ofsix routers to l"e-\rie",',
The first, four routers in the follo'ving review are industrial quality - designed fo,' long-term heavy ..duty lise. The)' include the Black and Decker #3SI0, PorterCable #675, 1II.kita #8601B, and the Bosch #161)8. The last two routers we reviewed, Sears #9-1:l'l'-1749 and the Black and Decker #7614, are soleifor home use, and are not built for the heavy-duty use associated with industrial routers. BLACK AND DECKER#3310
The Black and Decker router modeL33l0 is a basic, no-frills workhorse, that's designed for serious full-time routing, CON·rnOLS. Although th~ model 3310 comes with two ball handles that are very easy to grip, when they're combined with a toggle switch, they stiD present the safety problems mentioned above, In defense of the motor on the model 3310, it produces \tCIOY little starting torque, whieb reduces the problem of control associated with the ball-handled base. BIT CU..,.,GING. We found changing bits on the 3310 to be relatively ~)'. ~'i1'Stof all. )IOU call stand the router upside
• ,8LACK AND DECKER
16
3310
PORTER-C:A8LE
615
MAKITA
36018 WOODSMITH
system on tne model 3.310 use, a rack (lnu I (R.. kwell) 675 is a hybrid: "0" handle on pinion gear. Although this system works one side with a ball handle on the other, f>moolhl~', making adjustments in vcr~v (The on-off trigger .",itch is in the 0small incl·(·mt'nt...~is difficult. And the cali- handle.) On. f•• ture not usually found bl";lt(."(1knob on the 3310 is very small, nne. with t.his handle arrangement is that the :.dlnost.impossibte to read accurately. ball is at 120' to the "D" handle (Instead of onee Il (Ii.il~tl\adjWiCtnent. is 111:.1(1(\, the 180~,straight across), KO it run be switched motor i~ h('lcl in place l)y tllrning all (lnR~'- fa., right- 01' len, hand ",C, to-~lil~ \,!ing ntl~ that lightens n SlJlIl-l\l'Jll Initially this appeared as n ntce feature. ~lSscmbly(withln the soli(1 base). BUl as \\'C began to UI(' it, we foun(1 the 'rhit't :\plit. arm tightening system works handle position made il (lit'fitldt t.okeep the well, On(1 probably accounts for thi:. router from teetering when routing the router's abilit~' to keep bits centered in tht' edge of a work surface. base at various height settings better than BIT CfL-L~CISC, Another problem with an)' other router we tested. this handle arrangement is that it barely But when we tried using a Vel- rounding provides enough room to gel the thin over bit with lhe 3310, the collet hole in lhe stamped-steel wrenches in the opening of plastic sub-base was so small that it pre- the base. let alone enough room to Lighten vented U~ Irom USillg even this commonly the coUet nut. use d bit. Although the model 675 enn be stood It()l""":I~T<\nl~tjCOiltPATJUI1.l'ry,when upside down to change bits, it'a sometimes it CIIIlletime to attach the 3310 to • ''OUIer' nearly impossible to get the collet nut to table, we had some problems, release, 1 don't, know what the problem is, ~~i~t. the screw holes in the base (IOn'l but it can be a real knuckle buster if those penetrate completely through the base, thin wrenches slip. This means the screws must be a spt."Cific DEPTH AJ}JL·STl"(:. On to a brighter sublength to attach the router, If the SC1"'e\\'S ject. The depth of cut on the model 675 is adjusted by rotating the motor within the 3J"'(I jU$l R h:lir too long. the)' ean ~~iI:,' base. This system works well, and allows >lril> out the threads in the base. However, once we got it mounted to the very small depth a(lju~tnlentA. However, router table, we soon found its Aehill('~' the calibrated ring' (used to gauge the heel, When it's mounted on " V,-lhlek depth of cut) is alm os t lIsclcll.<, .'out('.. table top (as on the lI'ood$mitil To secure the InQto.' in I>IIICC,the nlode} vc .. ion), IhecoUet's highest sl, The base of the Porte .. Cabl.
BOSCH
\VOOOSMITH
1603
-
ROti'TER TABLE CO~lf·A"IUff,ITY. vert the m{)(iel 675 (or UtlC Oil
To eon .. (t
I'Olltcr
table, first )'OU ha\'e ~(J l'(lnlC)VC the "D" hondl •. This isjust ft mftttc" ,,(unplugging the cOl'tI_t'romthe rnoto .. unci llllSCl'C\\~ng the "D" halldle. Then plug the cord into the allxiliary s\vitch on the router lable. The depth of cut and ranl(e of adjust-
SEARS
9-Hl-1749
ment pro\·id«1 by tne model 675 is exeellent. and «mee the sub-base is removed for Use on the rout(lr table, there is no restriction on the 5i7~of router bit. A(CESSOltll<:S. The combination edge guide and trammel point attachment offerod by I'orwr C..ble wor ks weU - if you have the patience to make ,IUIhe adjustmenls thc)"\,(' al1o\\'ed for, and can justify its ecst ($40,20), MAKITA
recent yean.- ~takit.a has joined the raub with man)' other Japanese manufacturers pJ"O\'iC'lin~qualil-),' products at reasonable price" ~I.kita has also mad. the decision of which model t.o review an easy one, Only the t·y,.H.P, model 3601B (11
fit. within our gui
coxruots. 1'h. model 3001B has a "0" handle base that l)1"O\'i
\",hen it
c()}nes
tilne to
use thenl, tht'I'C's II l.roblem: The 1'0ut('1' lends to rock on Its slightly domed hend, But if you CKnget it to stand still, clmnginp: bits is relati\'ely cas)', nt;I"TIJ .\lUl~'I:\G,The s_}'::stemfor ad· j\l!iting Ihe depth of cut on the M.kit.., consist,. o( an adjusting ring that'~ threaded into th. 1110lOt hou.iqlt. When lhe ring is tumed the motor moves up or
dO\\'n,Thi~"y~letn "'orks well. and allo\\'~ depth ndju~lInen(,;; in exnemely small incl"CJTlents. The ollly ..eal disadvnntllge to thi •• yo· tern is that \vhen ut)(!(lon the router table, tbe molor can f!11Iout of the base when tho locking kllob i, loo.
clum~)',and all in all. in€!ITecti\'e.
BLACK AND DECKER 7614
17
When thedcpth of cut is set, the motor is held in ))Osition by a \fel'jl eomforrable,
easy-to-operate knob (which also
scrVC$ as
one of the handles). Initially. we liked the ease of using this knob. but later found its fault: It does a rather poor job or keeping Ule motor (and thus the bit) centered at various depth settings. ROGT"~R'TAnl~":(·O~lPATIBLIT\'.When
the ~lakita is mounted to the router table, the biggest problem is that its "D" handle has to be lel\ dllngling under the tabletop because it is direct ..wired from the motor. snd can't be d~ see nnec ted
used, )ll\kitn's were the most disappointing. The c(lgc guide. is very basic, and they don't even offer a trammel point. Although a IIs.hOI)made' trammel point can
be used, there's reall,:.·no excuse Ior- not
orrering one as an accessory. BOSCH The last of the Industrial routers we chose is manufactured by Bosch (West Germany). who bought out S18nle),,8 old power tool divislen a couple or years ago. And to be honest. it doesn't Appear that an)' improvements were made in the pro-
cess. and overall. we \...ere quite disappointed. CO~'TrSare the ",'orsl or an>' router \\'e fe\ie\\'ed. Not onl)~are the)'lOO ohort, but they have heads at both ends. This makes it very hard to grip Ihe .hort. lY," length ofw"cnch Ih.textend. boyond the edge of Ule base when chAnging bits. Bui without. doubt. !be biggest headache a.,'Ocl.ted ,,;th tbe 1603 i. that you can't Stand it upside down while chAnging bits. For some ... ason. Bosch d"'ligned the motOt so the power cord exits at the tOI>of the motol' housing ... the wOI'.tl)()O!sible phlce. DEI'TII "ilJVSTINC. The depth .'ljusting .ys~ on Ula 1603 i. the simpliest B)'stem we r
18
of when simple isn't necessarily better. To raise or lowe.' the bit, the motor is rotated as it rides on top of an angled rim on the base. The problem is that the rout(Or must be either laid on its side, or held in On. hand. making it rather difficult to set the depth of cut to a lll>ccific setting. The lGO:!nlso uses a split arm assembly and wing nut to secure the motor in the base, and produced rathel' dlsapllOinlillg results when it came to keel>inl': the bit centered at various height seuings. An-
other
disheartening aspect it\ that the
motor ean fallout orUle base when it's used
on the router table. l~Otrr.~RT.\I)L"; COi\tPA1'llllLltrY, \Ve ran
into more problems t"ying to usc IhelG03 on the router table than on any other router. r'irst. the screws holding the plastic sub-base 10 the router base are metric - making it alm os t Impossible to lind !be longer versions needed to attach the router to the rouler table. As with the Porter Cable, the "0" handle on the Bosch hes to be removed from the base. But when it .. nne time to plug Ule cord into an auxiliary switch. it WlI$ so MOrt tbat the switch had to be located right next to Ule routermaking It difficult toge! to and defeating the safety aspect of an auxiliary switch. Once the router was mounted. the problems with Ihe depth adju8tin!( system popped up again. At its highest setting, the collet is still ¥e" below the table surraee. And again. depending on th~ bit being used, thi. lack of height can be a real problem. .]nally, in defense of the BO!IChmotor. its heavy-dilly fan pushea oil' Ht " higher velocity Ihon 'Iny of Ihe other •-outers we reviewed, and should be able to ward off an)' flying debris that come. its way. ACCP.SSORI&S. Bosch offers. combination edge guide and trammel point that's similar to the Porter-Cable system. but with fewer ,,,\iu"tments to Itet in the \"tt)', But roj' some .'eason, the steel J'Ods att.ehing the guide to the bose arc neslled 8l-ound the ball handle. where they're
which provide excellent two-handed control while starting nnd operating Ihe route I', For e8SC of usc, we'd rate them n notch above the "0" handle style. B'T CIIA)(GI:
out lhis new model a couple of years ago, Sea,', changed ihe depth .,Yu"ting system from the old rack-and-pinion style, to • Ul.... ded ring system (similar to the one on Ule Makita)_ It's easy to make very small &1800 with a thumb screw that tightens" split base. Sears was scoring big poinl.$ with us until we tried to tighten thAl thumb screw. :-.lot only does the thumb SCrew have painflllly jaJ!ged edges, the
SI)lit.base requires an excessive amount
or
lightening to hold the 1110to,· in pia ee. And to lop it off, the whole sys"'m docs a poor job of keeping the bit centered in the base. If there's a worse, more painful. more irril8tingH)"Stem, itwould lake a ecmmiuee of politicians to find it, IlOl'TER TABLt; CO~II~i\TIBIl.IT'''.The S~nl'Srouter can be ensUy mounted under a l'OUlCI'
table, (1'hey even offer their 0\"1\
vc....lon.)
But one major problem has popped up. The ran blades on the motor have a tendency to break off. (Thu. ls apparently the result of a raulty design that creates a st.'es~ concentration on tht' blades,) Although the fan creates. fair amount of ail' \'e:locit)f. thel"e is U l\tl'ong possibilit~! of ~ignifiCllnt damaJ(e if any d~b"s does find its \\'a)' to t.he Ol)ening in the motor hotJ~ing. SEARS \CC>~ hsndles. 1~ H.P. model #;614 i. from Black and
\VOODs~nTH
.til
t, 'U
Decker's "consumer" line or power toolt'l. I small for man~' COmmOnl)'u~ and retails for only SSi .99. This is a relative))' DC\"router and it's apparent that Black and Decker hIlSI)"t • lot of thought into this one. COl'M'1l01.s. The model 7614 uses two slightly modified "D" handles (with" trig. gel' _witch) to provide a pistol'grip rccl, nhd excellent two handed control while I·outing. 811' ('IIM
router nus. There
ROL'TF.R TABLE CO)'J.'ATIUILIT\'.
are rwc major problems wirh attaching the Black and Decker i614 10 a router table. First, the screw hol.~ do not penetrate eompletely thl"ugh the I!JI•• , 80 preeiaelyNiY.e<1 machine screws must be used. The second problem lUI. to do with the depth of cut. Like of the industrial routers, the 7614 was plagued by the illability to raise the router motor and collet high enough for practical use when mounted on a router table. ACCP-SSORrES. Black and Decker off• .." two separate gWd"" for edlte work and trammel point. work. Thif' in itself Is a drawback but they added insult to injur)' by making both gui(lctt awkward to use,
"VOl'"
Scars routers. This s~"Stemmcorporates a
we do it so ollen), and the ability to mount and usc the router on the router table (a nece~it)· in our shop). With the emphasis on these two fe.· lures. we had to eliminate three routers (both Black and Decker's and the Bosch) because of p r oblem s when thcY'!,(t mounted to the router ",bl~. This len. th ree routers to choose from: the Sears, tu"kit.1 and Porter Cable. Among these three, there is one m~or difference: cost. If tho choice i.price-dependent, I would buy the Sean; router (when it's on sale in the $
and ineludee man)' of the best feat-ures we
found on an)' of rhe rOUI.e:l'S we reviewed. spring· loaded looking lever that en!!l'ges The Scar~ del)t.h adjusting system is one of six notches in the collar IIUI. and difficult to ad,iuet in small increments. very good (with the notable exception There's Iit~le doubt in lilY the thumb screw), and 110. ",AKITA 80SCl1 SEARS 8 & D ROUTER 8&D P. C. • II I k' te I mind that ju~t like on LIteold 9HT1749 7614 ~1)Jh( n O.C1J11{ sy.s m user RATINGS ~~IO 675 36018 1603 Sears routers, the screw fu,' changing bits I~ t he best :I 3 4 4 5 5 that holds this lever in place Con.rol. (if they would only provide " will eventually wiggle loose, decent ...ized wrench). Even 81. Chone1n9 3 :I 4 1 5 never to be found again. with its faults. the Sear~ The wrench supplied with router is diffieu1t to J»l* up. 4 Depth AdJustlne 3 1 2 3 the 7614 is, as expected. when it's on sale. . very tohOrl and made of aout.r Tabl. If you're willing to spend • 4 1 3 I 3 1 stamped steel. What'S new. C-ompotlbility about $150 for a router, 1 I however, is that the wrench would definitely step up to 13 7 IS 9 15 13 is sto,'ed In the ba..I)Oiltt.ed table, the handle 100$to be detached lind thl. enure .ssembly. \\'ith their accessories. left dallglinll, 01" trough has to be routed 1)..:1""11I\IUCSTING. Depth atlju~ln1f:nt.i' out to accommodate it. But over the long OUR CHOICES haul. the industrinl.qualily of the Maldt. on the model 7614 are made using" rack and pinion system similar to Black and After rating the fcaturc.·:; on each of these should outhUl.l the Sears several times Decker's industrial model. six routers, there's still 011(' quesrion to over, The depth adjusting system is ali!()ronanswer: Wbicl1 router (10 \Ive recommend? To be fair. the Porter Cable model GiS 1I('<'Ied to the motor locking lever. Th,. The rating system we uM.'drevealed two is a close ~nd in thi.
or
•
•
,
J
0'
"II'
, SlACK & Ole,,«.
f
ROUTER COMPARISON CHART
•
•
, BLACt( & DICKEl 7614
IOseH
S[ARS
3310
675
36018
1603
'·HT·1749
HotHpower
1V., HP
,It.. HP
,"{_ HP
1Vt HP
1'.4 HP
I'/' HP
Coil•• Copaclty
v..",~."
II.", 0/,.
V.", -v,", 1/,,"
'I.
'I."
II....
'I,"
1/.", "".... 'I,"
II."
'I,.'
'I."
1:Y..~
,I'll."
11/."
2 prong
2 pl'()ng
'1 prong
PORTtR.cqll
MAKITA
V.", v....
I
-
Collo•• _ S.andard
-- --
1'1."
lV',."
I'll''''
3 pronG
3 prong
2 ptong
,12.49
Combination
$9.00
$17.50
Combination
$12,49
TroMmel Poln' ($)
$13.00
$40.20
NA
$9.45
$14.99
$13.00
lItetal' Ptfce
$176.00
5166.00
$196.00
$179.00
S119.99
$57.99
Price 'old
$109.99
$139.00
$15$.55
$166.50
$59.99
$51.88
Bas. Oponln9 2 or 3 Prong Plug (de.
Gl,lld. ($)
~
\VOODSMITH
I
.
19
Drawer Construction DOVETAIL TONGUE AND GROOVE Building a drawer is no easy matter. Not only do you have to construe; it $0 it hangs together under repeated use. but it has to fit the opening in the cabinet. and it has to be mounted so it slides in and out easily, The problem is that if only One of these requirements isn't, met, the drawer loses Its-usefulness.Yet, ifaJl the requirements
are met. nobody \\'ill even notice it because the drawer simply does what it's supposed to do. (Little thanks for so much effort.)
80nOM
......._
DOVETAil TONGUE AND GROOVE
BAtt( itS1S
The key to building any drawer is .be
joinery. If t.he joints are strong', the drawer will slay together under repeated us.. One of the best joints fot building a drawer is 3 dovetail jOint. R\lt it'R not the
only one. The drawers for the d..,k and the caddy are constructed with a variation of a dovetail. Instead of making do,'etail pins and tai1~.t.hejoint. we used 011 these drawers is a.dovetatl tongue and groove. The dovetail ,hape on the tongue and groove provides good mechanical (interlocking) strengttr, but it's much easier to cut.than a "normal' dovelail joint. However, there are t\VO lirnitations when using a dovetail tongue and groove,
First, the drawer's sides must be set in %. to Vi' from the edges of the drawer front to allow room for the dovetail groove, as shown In Fig, 1. The problem here is btl.! the dovetail groove must be positioued farenough from the outside edge of the drawer front.sc that, the outside shoulder of the groove doesn't split out. 'rhis is actually an advantage when 1.1sing' metal drawer shdes to mount the drawer because Ute drawer's sides have to set. in anyway to allow sl>4ce for the slides. The scc:ond rcquirclnent \\,iih thjs joint WEAK JOINT V/HfN SIDE IS FlUSH WIT'- ~ONT
-
ON DRAWEaBonOM
SACK SCIEW OR
80nOM 1'0
luiS to do with the tools needed to cut the dovetail shape on the tongue and lhe
drawer front should be cut to length so it's a rotal of Y", Ie~s ...... '", .. width oC the opening. (This allows groove. To 110 this, you need a dovetail router hit mounted in a router table thaL Vi,' on both sides for elearance.) As for the height of the drawer front, it's has a reoco- to guide the workpieces. (We naturally like the Wood.>nilh best to trim it-so it's a totaloflh" too/tu"less router table, lfyou'd like plans for building than the.heighticf'the opening. (Shop Note: this table, send $1 to WQOdsmith, 2200 The height of the drawer Iront can be Grand Ave., Des Moines,IA 50312,) trimmed a little more than the length beTHE DRAWER FRONT But before tho joints
lneasUl"C the opening ill the ~\binet, 1'he
G1
..,-J.
r.",on
cause the wood wlll expandrcontraet- more in this direction witb seasonal changes in humidity), Ifmore Iban one drawer is going to fit in the cabinet opening (as on the eadcly), size
the drawer fronts so there's at least between each one.
)4"
THE DRAWER SIDES After the drawer
rronts
are cut, the
drawer sides can be cut to site. Here you have two choices. The heightofthe
d....wer
FRONt
ORAWtil SIDE
SID£ FRONT
SI•• '/-
TIle dovetail gI"OOII& must: be poei7'(1 ""t II/.edovetoil g",oves, placoa,W' liolledJal' 6I(ollgltf",'" tit. edge oftl<_ Ma.oilileJqls. (011 0" IIt.1'OItt.,·table. d''O''''''fi'ollf so tit.ollt.ide shoulder oj Ih. 7'}f,e1I,Cl~tgroOt'C 80 «()'a1(~' siat is set i?, 'hI! groove d0fJ.81tJt split old, f1'()'" U,. edge of d,'uwtl' fi'O"t.
1
20
2
Olamp a step block 011 thefence to cut (ltestopped,groo •• ill III_ drow"'fi'l)I!t. US" (I piece oJ serap plywood to guide U,. "'''''k),iece tilrough the dovetail bit..
3
WOODSMI'rR
sides can eilher be the same height as the 1 If the drawer side is ~et in ~". and the drawer front. 0)" tl'jjluue(l (10,,"n a little. tongue is centered on Yed to width, rhey C~\I1 false top (a piece of W' Masonite) '\'jtl1 a \ot:'" be eut 10 length, The final length is deterhole in it for the bit, 'See I>ig, 2, (The mined by four mesurements: the lotal Masonite should extend under the touter depth of the cabinet (tnil; is 15' in the table's fence so when the fellc:c'istightened caddy), les8 the thickness of the. drawer down, it will hold the false toP in place.) floonll (to/ttl"'), Ius 8 0/1"" allowance between 6) CHOICE or 811'S. If the drawer's sides the back of the drawer and the back o[ the aloe more than %'" thick, J use a V~l'dovetail cabinet, ph<$ the length of the dovetail bit to cut the grooves. tongue on Ihe. fl'ont edge (W'), In the case Untortunately, dovetail bits must beset of the drawer on the caddv, the drawer ia at full depth to cut the groov es because the
"I
also reeessed
!~'f
into the cabinet, so
subtracled an additional
r
%" to get tbeJ'inal
shape does not allow fot'l'aishlg it in lneremen's, But a [ull-depth cut with.
Vi' bit
length of the sides,
can put quite a strain on the router. I) THe ')J{j\\VEI~UACK. As (0.' the drawer To geL around this problem, I elear out back, it should be "cut. to tit." after the sides most of the groove by making' a pass with a are join.A to the O'ont, But we'll geL to iL 11." straight bit first. Then 1 switch to the later, LAYING OUT THE JOINTS
After the drawer's
fl'On!.. and sides are cut to size, the position of the dovetail greoves can be laid out on tha drawer fi'Onb, "S) f#OSI1'IQ)J C;1{OO\r~:s.In order to de-
l.el-mi.le l,he I>osition of tbese grooves, ~IOU have to juml) ahead a little to how the dovetail tongue is cut. 'I'he tOl1gl.te is cut by taking-alte"nate p•• ses on both [ace. oCthe sides, refe,' to I~ig, 6, This oneans the longue \\;11 be centered on the thickne&; o[ the side I)ieees, '1'hus, ,he groove on lhe dt"3\ver rt'Ont ,nus\, be l)osi~ioned to 8CCOtutC for a .entel'ed tongue, On the drawer for the caddy, 1 decided to I>ositioh the
face \V:,l.$set in v.," from the edge of the (Ir3\\'Cr fI'ont, see ]'-'ig, 2,
$00 if the
outside face of the drawer side Is
\f:" from the edge 'of the drawer ["Onl (see detail in Fig, 2), 8) Cl.A~1P STOPS IN '-LAG':. A ft.er the fence is set lip in rhe right pcsition. there's one more step, As mentioned
above, I trimmed down the height of the drawer's sides so they're 1f'1' less t,hnn the drawer front. 'I'his means the grooves (for mounting the sides) musl be "topped 'W' from the top of the drawer front-
However,
thel'e ts one other con-
sideration here, I slopped the dovetail grooves another v.,' less than th.t so no part of the groove shows above t.he LOP edge of drawer side, This is done by clamp-ing a slop block to the fence or the router table so the block is 20/." from the cellter,of fhe dovetail bit, see Fig. 3, ~lRom' CROO,fES IN DR1",IER f'RONT.
Finally, the-router table is set up to rout the g.l"~VCS, Before cuttillg the "real" drawer front_.make-the cuts on a tlial pieca to get the feol of what's going on, Place the end o[ the trial piece against the fence and use a piece of scrap pJy\VoocJ 01' particle board to guide f~thl'ough the I'Ilut"r bit until tho leading edge of the trial
piece touches the stop. see. l-"ig, 3, Then
carefully pull iL backwards, ouL o~ the dovetail bit, \Vhcn one groove is cut, clamp the stop to the other end of the fence, and make the second cut, see Fig, 4, (Note: when making thiscnt, the drawer fl'ontis-being fed in the wrong' direction. The rotation -of the bit the groove in one pass, "till tend to push the workpiece away from 7) ;\l)JUST ,,'ENCE, Next, adjust, the. fence the fenee, so a finn gl'ip is, needed.) so the bit is c,mtered 0/," from the fence, If both gl"OOvescheck out on '~he ,",rap, (The position of the gl'oove Jnelltiollcd go shea(} on the "real" dt'a"'er front. (Shop above,) SiDce it's diflicull to judge th. Note: It's best..to sand-the inside face of the center or a dovetail bit, 1 tempol'.uily rc~ d'"nwer front before cutting the I$I'oove5, I r place it ,,,ith It V·gl'oove bil 811(1use the the sanding i,s done later. it \viU, in effect, point or the "VIl to positioll th.e fence. alter the depth of the dov.l..~il gl'oov.,) When the fence is positioned, pul the 10)ROlfi' GROO\'ES Fon a"')K, BeCOI" dovetoil bit in 'lid lIBt. its height (11.,. fol' the changing thi.set-up on the I'outer ""bte, go dl-a,Ve.!' on (he cadclY)t and Inake a trial cut .head and out the ~ov.t.il j..'Tooves[or lhe dra\ver.'s back. Rei"e., (or the sake of con· on a pi.ce of SCI'llP, Then to check th. POSilioll of the groove, hold the dt'a"'eJ' \Ienience .. [used the sanle.selti11~ as 011 the Vi' dovetail bit, (set to full height) to the dovetail-shaped groove. rf the sides are \4" thick (as in the drawer on the caddy), I use a v.,' dovetail bit to cut. the grooves, This bit is small enough so it can be set to full height. to Cut
side so it.'s centered o"cr the groove :u)(l
dra,\'cl' front. That is, the gt"OOve is sel in
SNEAK UP P'USH 11iROUG.H lIT. THE"N,"Ull 8ACl(
_-
SlOP 8l00(
ON FINAL
WlO'"
ROUT ONE FACE, flip AROUNO,.. ROUt OTHER O,.AWflt fACE SIDE
f£~Cf
~IO£
fRONt'
fENCE
TRIM lONGUf
TO Al ·STOI!Pto GROOVE
7'0 cut Ihe stopped g,_tO" Iile otlWl' To cut the do~elailloIJglJQ8 ii's side, Theil move ihq j'ell<;t "!llay j'ri>m Ihe !'eel/y, t,.i", the l."gllt Of tJur /.Quglt. 10lit pI
~il to s11eak"P tI,ic/mess
WOODSMITH
o/tonll"'"
21
oy,." from the end of the side piee •. How- grooves. see Pig. 6. I use a:chisel to pare ever, were's no need for the $tOJ) blocks off enough of the dovetail tongue so the because the grooves are cut. all the \\'a;y botwm·ofthe drawer side is flush with the th,'Ou!;h(trom edge to edge). bottom of the drawer front. CUT BACK TO SIZE
CUT THE TONGUES
Afl.er both sets of grooves are cut, the tongue. can b. cut on lhe front ends of the drawer sides, '1) StlT.(;P FOJ< TIIXGU£S. 'Co cut the tongues, leave ehe bit set at the same height. and a<\justthe fence so the dovetail bit protrudes only slightly beyond the face of toe tence, see Fig. 5. Then make .R trial cut in a piece of scl'a» that's exactly the same thickness as the "real" side pieces. Hold the scrap against, the fence and make a cut OD 0110 facet see Fig. 5. Then flip it around and make a cut on the other face. At this point, the tongue should be too thick to tit in the groove. ~Iove the fence just a smidgen farther away from the router bit, and make anotherpass on both faces. (Make very small adjustments on rhe fence each time. Each acljustmcllL will .remove double the amount of material because CIltS are made on both faees.) When [ get close to the ,·ighl..<\just.ment, but the tongue is still a little too tight. 1 .to~ and start cutting the ·'r.ar' piece. This way I klIO\V l'm close, yet 1 still have room to sneak up on the cut during the fina) 1"'lSSOS on the tongue. '2' TH8R'GHT F'T. Tht1tongue should fit the {J'OO\TC \\'it.h a loose Iricticn tit, That.is, it shouldn't be so tight that it has to be hammered into the gl'OO\'e. Instead. it should be just 10()Sc enough so when the tongue absorbs some of the moisture front the glue, it has some room to expull41, When the tongue is C1.lt \\tith this kiJl(1 of Gl. il may ,",em a little. too loose - the (ll':l\\'et' si
Aftel' the tongues are cut ill the side preces, the final measurements can be made for the drawer's back. "') CUT~ACK.Push the sides into piace in the grooves in the drawer from, Then measure the distance bet\vce:n the inside faces of the drawer sides, nea'r the drawer Itont, see Pig. 7. Add tile depth of the two dovehlil grooves (a tot:lll of \(:") and cut a piece for Ihe back to this length. For now. cutthe back to \I,dth to match the width the drawer sides, Then cut dcvetail tongues 0\' both ends. once again. sneaking up on ,the fit.
of
GROOVES
11) RUNNER GltOO\'ES~ rr the drawer is going to be mounted to the cabinet with wooden ronnel'S (as were the drawers on the caddy), it's best to cut the grooves for the runners in the outside faces of the drawer sides beI01"C final assembly, lSi TRllil BACK ro \"II)1'JI. Because. of the inter-locking natu re of the dovetail tongue and groove j0i11tS, the drawer cannot be assembled with the bottom in place. Instead. the drawer's back has to be trimmed down SO the bottom can be inserted later. Earlier when I cut the back to size, I cut itlo the same width as the sides, an<1[ also cut the g1'oovefo" the bottom. This was done so the groove could be used as a guide to trim tha back to final width. Cut light along the top edge M this groove so tho back rests directly on the drawer bottom, see ~'ig. 9.
FOR BOTTOM
FINAL ASSEMBLY
A(t.,· the back is cue. you also need grooves in the drawer front and sides to hold l he bottom in »18'''.
A( this point all four sides of the drawer are cut and ready for assembly. 19)CUT O(}Tr(J~,T() SIZE. As mentioned
[use the
above, the bottom has to be insened after router table to cut the grooves for the the rest or the drawer is assembled. Howbottom. ~fount a y,;" slraight bil in the eve,'. if the bottom is cut to fit tight in the router alld «(ijust the heigllt so the bit grooves in the drawer's sides, it can be makes a v....-de.l) cut, 'l'hen a\'t:S IN I)l(l\ \\fr~l:r: rnosr,
FIGUR,(-9
fiGURE 8
STAIT G,ltOOYE
~E.E
STOP GROOVe H[lIi
TRIM tACK ALONG TOP £OOE OF GROOVE
ROUf RIGHT TO If.F1
To get tll,e
ltle'a$ltTet}l.e1~tf01'
7draltlCr's ba,ck,
tll-e
aSS8'Jl1ble lIte Bides 01ld
f'YO)li. Jl1easltre di.l$taflu bet:ween lite sides and add Ih. depth qf tlte two (IIW1le8.
22
8
To Cit! til_ fI'"O&1M Jor tI~d)",wet bot· t0111 J lower tlte (Wlc,'tr trout riglll over
the crovetail groove. !l'he)l ro)(1...,,1# lite bil br•• ks ("' .. "gl, til. 8eco>1l1groove.
Bejore o.. o",hll/, cut ~. 9'wve lor drawer's I>qtlo".a7tdv," groovB/m' the rll,1~i'leri')t,draloers sides. TI,e~ltri?~l
9
W00DSMITH
_____ u_a_~_m_gSho~
_
AN OPEN FORUM FOR COMMENTS AND QUESTIONS Ii happens every year, 'long about De-
cember or J8JIUa11'. 'Vc get quite. a few letters from readers asking why theh-prejeets are cracking and liplitLing. The problem is moisture ... or the lack or it. And even though wood is "dead," it's constantly adjuating to the amount of rnoistuze (hllmidity) in the surrounding
nir. This past winter, the entire nation experienced n quick and very nast)' cold snap, As this cold air filters into your house and is warmed (at no small expensel, it>; relative humidity drops. (Cold air holds
Jess moisture than the sante volume of warm air.)
This causes problems ,\'ith anything made of wood. As the humidity in the au' changes .. the wood absorbs or releases moisture which, in turn, causes it to expand or. contract , . . sometimes a lot more than you'd expect.
Although wood changes dimensions, ill doesn't do it consistently. Wood moves to • much greater extent across the grain (in width) than with the ll,'--ain(in length). This fact was dramatically enacted for us jus. a couple of weeks ago. Remember the Trestle Table shown on the cover of Wood.smill. No. 2$? The top of that table is made of solid oak boards glued up to • width of 30". On both end. of the top are cap boards that run perpendicul .. · to the grain of the top.
There's no way to stop this movement. AI! you can do is allow for ib in the design and ceneuucticn of any project. In the case of the. trestle table. the end cal' was designe<1 to allow for- this movement. 1( it hadn't been, the top would have split. If j!OU would like to know more about wood movement. 1 highly recommend the book Understandino 1V00d, by Bruce Hoadley. (IL can be ordered from: The Taunton Press, 52 Church Hill Road, Box 3;;5, Newtown, CT 06470. $20.00.) In this book, Hoadley includes all kinds
KING QUESTIONS
/"1}{) IIltrcflased a 1('''0 /I1.""d S'l Japanese
fi1l;is/~'i'lg stone. tlt~l's ,ttl)U1"ted 0"11 Q, It'Oocklt. base.. l'nI1(J()1~d6rbl{Jif I i"1111erse 1M stolle and bo.e c/implqt.!y in ioa!...., wilt Ih. ~.cOmq"ilgl"edfrolll the stan.? L. 8. Monlgo",..".!! ,Sa)t A nionio, Texas All King brand water &ton.&can be kept.In
water constantly withou; damaging the of charts and formulas showing direct stone itself. However, when the stone is comperiscns between temperature, )'eJa~ mounted to a wooden base, the base itself tive. humidity, percentage of' moisture in should not be immersed. the wood. and the combined errect these
factors have on expansion and contraction of different species of wood. Although this information tends to be a
bit technical, it's very understandable and well wOI:1;1\ reading. And after spending an evening 01' two '\'ilh this book. Headley's understanding of wood begins rub off.
to
SMOKING RAGS?
You. }tladc it cleor ill. YOltr art'ici$ Otl oil finishes (Woodsmith No. 30), thai oil ""d oiliresin combi"ations "(1)-11''(solidify) by
oxidat,io)~Wid pO!Y)llm·izctti6)),. 1t's importa»! to be. al~1(1T61/~{Jt" thie d}'Y'
The problem isn't; with th~ glue holding the stone to the base, it'S just tbat the wooden base, like aJ1l' wooden object, shouldn't be ke\!" constantly in water. We keep O\U' water stones upside-down in a closed eontainer \vlth On1ya v," 01' $0 of the stone ill watei -. This, keeps the stone saturated, yet prevents the base from g~~ling
'vet, 'Ilhere's anoWer problem with soaking Japanese water stones. [f they dry out" after eve)" use, >;all deposits (left when the water evaporates) can be a problem.
One answer is te keep the stones ill a closed container to p~·e.venttbem (rom drying out. Another option is to use distilled
-'~Qt water. because itcentams no minerals that .nOl'~h for onYO"6 II) S6"S. 11'1( U Co«led can build UI'on the surface of the stone. ,tll,1fac.c, bt~l.el10ugh W caltS6 olspoJt~(J;tle(llt.S SI)Caking o(.J;\I~Ul.se water stones, the CO"tbtlStioll~'ill C'1CI"I,'.ed 1"1) mgs ",alII· Appendix to (~e 1984 Garl'ett Wade eatalqg (161 Ave. of the Americas, New YOI,k, rowd with tit... J;'~i." ..., 1'1"tny O(U)l 'I.lJorksho}), / 1)I().ke 8"1((J'E' (I,ot N)' )0013) lists two mew combinasion t·ng /JroC(1$$ also (!(J)lcmleS
SQ)}"l.ehea.(
aU (he rogs used for oil sl
Japanese water stones,
UJipC·6" /i."i8hes (""6 01>t1te fI,p ~(1/leu lhOI/'.,. left 10 dry, ruther t/W.II allowi"g then: 10 r6)ttai)1 all ~ru.n{l'led'i(lJ. .,411 (!Verl
s(lfer 1"-Clclic6 is
it)
Pl~tIhetn ilt
alid $t;b't~6'1J~ ~/11J))1i'11lQOi(jr It'lt/il I. Ih,-ow Ihe", .W
When we built tha~ table t"p, the caps were trimmed and sanded in length to lIIatch the exact widlh of the main body. That \vas dur,ing the summer \\'h~nthe humidity waS high. This \linter Ted (our Design Director) took that table home light about the time the cold "nap hit. The ail' in his house. was quite dry, and the tabl. tQp began to oon· tract - even though it/s finished \\tith three coats of po~vw"thane. The photo above. shows how the width of the table top contracted t" a much gt"."ter extent than the length of the end cap. There1s a J4" v31iation Oll eq,(./t sj(le. mttk· iog a tota] difference of !l.a"'. WOOOSMITH
116"i.,,'
Q
illlp;et
it's cQ)'~
'For a /0119li",~, I """'Jidcroo thi/$pre· calttion aboul (li.lp08al oj d.l11;nyoilsOflkedroy. asj.,81, anl)tl.e,·jinicky war,,· illg. Th." S6"uralll.m·s ago. 1YiJil"'e8sed/1
pile of c,.m"pted "P I,my oil soaked, lugS igl\i~""
if 'O"leolie had wlJ,ch"" a
llIatc"
W 11'11>1,.
_4W,ouyh it's les* lik.l." ta oc~"ri"a C()(,t
The Jit$b is a 250/1000 grit cOlnbillati01J sOOne($10.;;0); the ~ec_o~dstone cembines HlOol6000 grjts ($14.85). This second com·
llle. ~l}j"~C}·t/la» i'l «/totoaralle in July, it's i"tpOssibl~.SQ
bination is ahnost identical to the t,,,ojndi-
"lQltll lake
smitlt No. 2-t). At only $15, this 1000/6000
008BI)t611t ~tJ()'r'kroOJ11ill
<;)ta11cc8'1
""t
,'idual st()lleS 've )-ecommencl in l¥oodcombination stOlle pl"Oducesthe best edge
Sic/ney lAmr."
E~CC1(ti1.'BDirector
for tile mone.y \VC've. seen.
AcoQrding to Garrett Wade. both stones
C0(I.1inURes.o.-alLG,.1(1I can be kep~~nstantJyimmersed in ,vater Clet-eland. Oll.io "ithou~ lhe two halves separating.
23
Sources WOODWORKING
CLUBS
The list of woodworlOng clubs continues to grow. Here 81'(' the latest additions. TH~ COASTAL WOOOCRAFTBRS GUILD. This club WM fonned about eight months ago in Savannah. Georgia, and already has 30 active members. The group sometimes meets in members' shops - something President Wayne Welch says is a learning
experience in itself. For more information contact Wayne at 18309 Chesterfield Drive, Savannah, GA 31419 or call 912-
925-1380. S)lAK£ RIV€R wOOOCARVP.RSCLIlIl. Ro.. Darnell says this club got started about. year ago In Idaho Falls, Idaho. Aecording to R_, there's a lot of excellent talent in the group aInlady. If you'd like more informalion. write to Ross Darneli, Roule3, Box 260, Idaho Falls. ID SMOI or calI20S-
529-8699. TII~ SAwnvSTtRS. From Dave Cook come. word of the founding of a woodworlcing club in Northwest Iowa (in and around Sac and Buena Vista counties). The Sawdu6tol'8' membership is around 30 and they invite any and all to attend. Dave says he'd like to hear frem other club. about idea. ;0" programs and speakers. If you're interested in joining. or If you have some information to pass wong, centaet Dave Cook. RR 1, Nemaha, lA 50567 or cali 712·6$.4528. NEW NA.II€S. In the last issue of lI'ood,mill, we reported about the formati,,. of two woodworking clubs which were so new they hadn't had lime to get themselves named yet. That siluation has been rectified this lime around and we're glad to introdu~ you 10: HAW~I'E WOOOClUF"Il:RS is the name the fellows in Burlington, lA, gave their club. For more information contact Dwight ~Iulch. President, 2636 S. ~fain, Burlington, IA 5260], WOODCIIUCKS WOOOWORKNC CLUB is the name they seuied on in the PortlandVancouver area. Don N/. Sehie is the.person to contact at 62'20 North Basin Avenue, Portlnnd, OR 972]7. Our orrer to help your woodworkng club
recruit member'l\ is a standing one. Ifyou'd like U810 mention your club in an upcoming issue 01 Wood8mith, send the information (including the name of the person. prespective member should contact) to Steve Krohmer, AMistanl Edilor. fiNISHING
'RODUCTS
We finished the projects in this issue \\ith penetrating oil finishes. Watco Danish Oil finishes are generally
24
available at woodworking stores, unfinished furnitUl'(' stores, paint and hsrdware sto res, But if you can't locate a dealer near you, write or call: Watco-Oennis Corporation, 1756 2'lnd Street, Santa ~{onica, CA 90404; 213-870-478], Sutherland Welles products, on the other hand, lire distributed only by Garrett Wade, 161 Avenue of the Americas, Now York, NY 10018; Tel: 1-300-221-29-12 (AK, HI, and NY call 2]2-807-1757). Or you Can ,)I'der directly from the manufacturer: Suthe"'.nd Wolle8, Ltd., 403 Weaver Street. Carboro. NC 27510; Tel:
919-967-1972. fiNISHING
TIPS "CONTEST-
While I W3$ working on the article on oil finish~. in Wood.milk No. 3O(and thinking aboul the one thaI'. planned for the next issue), it occurred 10 me that the secrets of wood fini~hinA' are like the secrets of woodworking, The really good ideas are those little Ihins,'t', ofWn developed by ac-
cident. thAt mnkc >'OUI' friends
So1.)'.
"\Vh)'
didn'l I think of tll.11" Over the yc.'~, we've 5h81'"d a lot of woodwo"kinl{ tips on the Tips and Tech"iq,,~.l>lIge, but. I'U admit to not, paying
are simple: J. Send all entries to Mike Scott, A,;sistant Editor. ~Iik(>"volunteered" to read, sort and evaluate all the flllii;bing lips th.t come in. 2. We'll pay a minimum of $10 for lips we publish, and if Lh~idea is unusual, or
works especially \\'~U, Or makes us say, "\Vhy didn't we t,llinkof tha~?" we will go to $25 01' higher,
ishes, 5Ul1'aceapplications - til fair game for this "conleSI." BUI keep in mind that we're l oo king for the unique tips. Mixing your own wood filler out of sawdust, and varnish is almost common knowledge, and is not likely to be published. 6. There's no Co,,,,.1 deadline for this "contest," And, finally. \\lC')J prim a~ many of your til)S as we can, GLUING DOVETAIL ROUTER BIT
The dovetnil router bit shown on the right in the drawing below i.one of a kind. Bosch Powel'Tool Corpo''lltion manufactures this special devetail bit wilh a little extra fiule that ereates an expansion slot for excess glue. As far as we've been able to determine, Bosch is the only manufaeturer that makes a dovetail bit wilh thi.. profil., and Ihetre only available in hi,", speed steel (not as carbide-tipped). Every other dovetail bit creates a prome as shown on the len in the drawing. So. what's the big de811 We like 10 usc the Bosc h bit when making dovetail tongue and g,'oo"e joints beeause normally the ahaI'll corners of this jOint lit so light th.t even a little bit of sawdust in the I(rOOV0 makes 't~sembling the joint difficult at best. 'I'his speeial Bosch bit IlOIve8th.t problem by creating a little extra space. However, when routing "normal" dovetail join", ("ocket and pin) where "every-
thing sho\\'ti" on the $irle of the drawer, we ~tiU use • rejlUlar bil Oike the one on the ieft in the drawing). The Bosch bil' eome in IWO s;zes #85132, ' .. - ($4.65) and <1'85133, 'Yo< (S7.40). If),ou w.nt to locate a Bosch disIributor near you. call or write Boseh corporate headquarter •. P.O. Box 2217. Highway 5,; We.t, Ne'" Bern NC 28561: or call 919-63.'3-4138. The Bosch customer service department \\;11 give )'ou the name of. dealer near you.
3. In the case o( dllplicow suggestions, we'll use the on~s \vith the earliest pestmark s.
4. Be aJ:J complete as you can in explain .. ing your lip. I r you mix your 0\\'"0 finish 01' stain, be apcelflc about brand names, quantities, and mixinginstructlons. Tell us all we'll need to know to duplicate your
JOtN1 CatAftO I ... IOSCH lit
recipe in our shop. If you have a particular way you apply the finish, describe it in detail or include a drawing' or photo (that doesn't have 10 be returned) to help explain it. 5. Every Mpect of wood finishing sealing, filling, .t(lining, penetrating linWOOOSMITH